Fritz

In the states you can get these 6MM rubber insulation mounts from McMaster Carr, an industrial hardware catalog house. Link to an example, many materials and sizes available:http://www.mcmaster.com/#silicone-rubber-vibration-damping-mounts/=nfcg8d

I have experience with forged pistons in a Guzzi . Long lasting but, there will be more oil consumption than cast pistons and the forged pistons are noisy. Both of these issues are due to the increased piston to cylinder clearance the forged piston need.

My 96 V1100 Sport had an identical issue with the tachometer. Acting on advice from a local shop, MPH Cycles, Houston, Tx, I sent it Palo Alto Speedometer in Calf. ( USA ).LINK: http://www.paspeedo.com/ They overhaul the tachometer and install a Vdo works. The original needle was installed on the new works. The tach. now works fine but is does not seem to me to be as quick to respond to engine RPM changes. ( it is possible the original tach. responded quicker than actual ). Cost was $240 USD. Rubber mounts for the tach. and speedo are an issue though, they are prone to fail and quite expensive. I found some standard. Commercial rubber mounts that I modified the metal mount to accept. We will see how that mod. works in the long run. http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZNdWHK8/0/S/i-ZNdWHK8-S.jpg

I have had good performance from Continental Conti-Force 120/70/17 front and Conti-Force 160/60/18 rear. On my third set now. Rear life is about 5200 miles. Front life is about 8000. Very smooth, good grip dry or wet, and a resonable price. I am a sport rider, just blazing around twisting roads for fun. Running 35 PSI front and 41 rear.

Hum? My 96 Sport with the OEM delortos had the same idel problem. It turned out to be not enough cable slack. I run about an extra 1/16" and alls well.

Finally found it in the friggen service manual! It is 170MM. I am assuming +15mm. The owners manual states 360CC for refill after drain. 360CC is what I had been using so this time I poured in 360cc in dry forks like before and blead the dampers and sure enough the air gap measured 271mm!!!! I have not had enough oil all along. If you could drain the forks without stroking the dampers, 360cc would proabably provide close to 170MM air gap. The forks now feel much better. Where before the front end " went away" in the turns it now feels firm. Braking is smooth without the sudden dive. Thanks to all who wondered or researched and considered my delimina.

Time once again for fork seals in the old Sport. OEM 41.7MM forks. I am not serious enough, yet, to change the forks. Just expermenting to reduce dive and bottom out. What should the air gap dimension range be? Oil weight? Thanks in advan for any help!

Here in the states an industrial supplier named Grainger has them. The name of the item is " two piece clamp-style shaft collar" and are available in metric sizes from 3mm to 80 mm. Example an 18MM ID collar in aluminum is Grainger PN 2AUX2. Also available in steel and stainless Steel. See Euro Grainger web site: europe.africa@grainger.com Good luck.

Not sure who made the set up on my bike, but it seems to work well. All stainless, fits well, and sounds fine. After jetting performance is brisk.

Here's another application of a lazer for alinment, I have a Harley FLHPI. This is the big touring model. Mine is an old Police bike. This design has the engine, transmission, and swing arm assembled into one unit and this unit is rubber mounted in the frame. The pivot point for both horz. and vert. of this unit is the swing arm axle. There are adjustments at the front and top of the motor to aline the unit in the frame. Harley uses the same wheel fnt. and rear so I use the brake rotor as datum. To do this I first level the frame and then vert. level the front brake rotor. This places the front end straight ahead of the frame. Next using the Sears lazers shown below placed on front and rear brake rotors I adjust the engine,trans,and swingarm unit parallel to the front. They will not line up beacuse the rear is offset for drive belt clearance. These lazers project a plane instead of a line.

It may be of intrest for you to know that even here in hell, I am refering to Texas, we have Chopsticks and I use a chopstick to look for TDC on my Sport. I use .005" intake and .006" clearance. Marks on flywheel? What marks on the flywheel?

Sorry to be slow in responding mate, it took me a while to get mt numbers together. I have been using the Conti. Road Attack on my 96 carb. Sport. I ride the bike as a sport bike with only some short ( 500 ) mile touring rides. Life, rear: Tire #1 5008 mile Tire #2 4934 mile Tire #3 5419 mile Dry traction is as good as I can use. Wet traction is good, I do not remember slipping or sliding. Ride and feedback is better than ContiForce. Very quite. Cost is acceptable at about $125 USD for rear.

Texas gal:

I was making love to this girl and she started crying. I said, "Are you going to hate yourself in the morning?" She said, "No, I hate myself now." If it weren't for pick-pocketers, I'd have no sex life at all. A hooker once told me she had a headache. A girl phoned me and said, "Come on over. There's nobody home." I went over. Nobody was home! My wife only has sex with me for a purpose. Last night she used me to time an egg. I went to a massage parlor. It was self service.

Here's an American solution. That is what the big hole is for, isn't it?:

I am on my third rear, second front Conti. Attack on the old Sport. A very good tire for that bike.

Have you tried syncronizing to reduce vibration? It sure reduced, not eliminate, vib. in my Sport.

Hello, I am new here and thought this would be a good place to jump in to learn if everything is working as it should. I also am desirous of stainless steel rotor/caliper bolts to eliminate corrosion and believe stainless steel bolts may be adequate. To test this I am currently using 304 SS bolts to retain the rear drive sprocket on my 650cc dual sport bike. Just to clarify, the yield strength is not the shear strength. The yield strength is the limit the material can be stressed and retain its original shape. Additional stress applied above the yield strength permanently deforms the material until the tensile strength is reached and at this point the material fails ( breaks ). The shear strength would be the force needed to shear or cut the material with a force applied perpendicular to the long axis. Exactly how the bolt is affected by the rotor. The shear strength may be higher than even the tensile strength of the component as design is a big factor. The tensile and yield strengths can be increased in alloy and some stainless steels by heat treatment. Higher tensile and yield strengths would produce higher shear strength. You are certainly correct recommending stronger, higher yield strength, bolt for brakes. With a given stress level applied to the bolt, higher yield strength increases the fatigue life, or the number of stress cycles to failure, of the component. Another thing to consider is that aluminum wheels, even if forged of 6061 aluminum and heat treated to the T6 condition, would only have yield strength of 40KSI. 7075 aluminum, used for aircraft, heat treated to T6 can achieve 70KSI yield. The yield strength of a cast wheel would be, - pretty low, I think you say" rubbish". Thanks for your time. Regards Fritz Huss Specialty Heat Treat http://www.specialtyheattreat.com/