Kiwi_Roy
-
Posts
2,343 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
61
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Community Map
Posts posted by Kiwi_Roy
-
-
Guzz - I added my experience to another thread on removing the swing arm. Yes, I think I could lube it in-situ
next time now I have filed the gun's nozzle to fit. It turns out that someone had butchered the two pinch bolts
on the front universal so I'm glad I pulled it out.
Cheers
Roy
-
That gauge looks familiar Roy, but I used ATF.
One slight problem that I ran into was over time the tubes kinked at the top zip tie because I stored it standing up. I need to fix that before I use it again.
I'm surprised you needed to use zerks on the intakes. My '02 has fittings with very small orfices that prevent rapidly sucking the ATF in if the balance tube fell off or, as what happened to me the first time I used it, one of the tubes flops against the exhaust and melts through. Maybe a previous owner ditched your fittings when he removed the vapor canister?
Your gauge looks like the Delux model LOL, it even has a scale!
Slide a short length of rod inside or tubing outside and make a right angle bend at the corner, that will take care of the kink.
My bike just had socket head screws but no tube between the bodies as mentioned in the write ups.
Your manometer is much more accurate than using two gauges, I worked for many years as an instrument technician, That's what we used to measure low pressures accurately and where the unit "Inches of water" & "Inches of Mercury" come from. "Inches of ATF" in your case.
A normal vacuum gauge has a range equivalent to a 32 foot tall manometer full of water with an accuracy of +/-1/2% (+/- 1.9 inches Water Column)
so the differential reading could be out by as much as 2 x 1.9. The only thing that will mess your gauge is air bubbles in one side or two different fluids.
Nice clean bench, mine is 3 layers deep in junk.
Regards
Roy
-
I just did my driveshaft today.
Remove the two large bolts and the swing arm moves out of the way quite easily,
there's no spring load on it and no need to disconnect the shock.
When you replace the driveshaft be very careful lining up the pinch bolt holes with
the reduced portion on the spline. If it doesn't line up properly the threads will catch
on the splines. A couple of the bolts on my bike have been stripped that way.
(you have to remove the bolts before you can pull off the universal joint)
When replacing the swing arm pivots it's quite difficult to get the thread started
without crossing it. I found if you run the nut up next to the pork chop it's quite
easy to see if its straight. Put both pivot bolts loosely in place first, this lines up the
swingarm. I ran the pivots up to where they just pinched the bearings, you can slide
the swing arm from side to side before it pinches.
In hindsight it should be possible to grease the front universal without removing the
shaft, I tried this using a flexible hose up over the swing arm but couldn't get the
end to snap on the the nipple. When I finally got the shaft out I had to file a couple
of flats on the nozzle to get it to fit between the 2 halves of the
universal. (even with it out I had to do that)
Don't forget to line up the two marks if you pull the shaft apart.
Good luck
Roy
-
Guzz,
The gauge was a no brainer for me, I am an Instrumentation Designer.
It needs to have a few inches of rubber tubing at the ends where it connects to the
throttle body so it doesn't drop off when hot.I will make another that can be used
to check balance while the bike is in motion.
Thanks for the grease info, so it's referring to overheating, I didn't understand that.
I thought there might be some exotic seals or something. The PO was paranoid
about lube materials, he gave me a crate of the special Italian oil mentioned in
the owners manual.
Cheers
Roy
-
I used my new tool this evening, It worked like a charm.
I did the TPS RH fully shut I found 102 mV so adjusted it to 150
This gave me a range 150 - 4890 mV.
When I re-connected the linkage I got anywhere from 387 - 440 mV as I wrapped the throttle.
This equates to about 1% of span so I wasn't too worried.
I see several posts saying the mV should be about 500 with the linkage on.
I adjusted the RH stop to give me ~500 mV. The LH body still on the stop
When I attached the balance tool the difference was less than 2" of oil which is a very small error indeed.
The bike was running about 900 RPM so I opened the left and right bypass screws until I got 1100
with both pressures balanced (about 1 turn on each)
Then I ran the engine at about 3000 RPM, the pressure difference was about 4" so I tweaked
the throttle linkage knob ever so slightly (
A few observations
I figure that both throttle bodies should be sitting on the stop screws at idle because that's the most
repeatable position 500 mV +/-10 mV.
The 500 mV number is not really fixed like fully closed or WOT because it is effected by bypass screws
and linkage backlash The main thing is to get a steady idle, I figure a repeatable mV should help there.
Oil was a good choice of fluid for the manometer, during the test one of the tubes fell off due to the
plastic softening with the heat, this resulted in some of the oil getting sucked into the other cylinder.
I will find a short length of rubber tubing to modify the setup.
Grease nipples are the cat's pajamas for connecting the tubes, just take the spring and ball out.
I am confident that I have my throttle bodies well aligned no load. Next I will figure out how I can
check it while riding with the motor under load. Once I have it to my satisfaction I will try out my
Throttle Position mV offset rig. I cut the TPS wire near the ECU and inserted a M/F spade connector
from here I will run a pair of wires to a mV source at the handlebars, I think +/- 100 mV
(+/- 2% of span) should be about the right range
Will keep you posted
Roy
-
A similar thing happened to a buddy of mine on his KTM, accelerating around a curved on ramp and the back locked up. Of course he bit the pavement. to add insult to injury a cop came along and gave him a ticket for careless riding.
Glad you're OK. please keep us updated, I have the same ride.
Regards
Roy
-
The manual says (picture of greasing the driveshaft)
"To lubricate the cardan transissions use only saphonifying greasers with lithium of a grade 2 consistency, 265/295 penetration and with a dropping point of about 180* The lubricants must not contain additives with MOS2-33"
Would someone like to explain that to me?
My grease container says Heavy Duty Lithium and a few words of warning about not eating the stuff. It looks like pretty normal yellow grease to me but the manuals warning has me worried.
Thanks in advance
Roy
-
I finally got around to making a gauge for balancing the throttle bodies.
10 ft of clear plastic tubing and a lump of scrap metal.
I used 10/30 oil as the fluid thinking it would be safer than water if it accidently
got sucked into the engine. at first i thought it might be too viscous but when I
tested it out seemed just right. Without making any adjustment I get about
8" at idle, falls away with some revs.
I looked everywhere for barb fittings to screw into the body. Finally in a rare
flash of brilliance i figured out 6mm grease nipples looked just right.
I ground the back a little to let the spring and ball out, they work perfect. If
I can just find some caps for them they will become a permanent fixture.
Sorry about the sideways picture, just flip your monitor over LOL
Cheers
Roy
-
Yes, taking something of his bike for a reminder would be quite appropriate,
How about those nice round nuts on the exhaust clamps, you could put
them on your bike somewhere as a nice reminder of your friend, Every
time you polished it.
Cheers
Roy
-
I downloaded the manuals V11 & Supplement.
They all seem to come in 3 languages, rather than print all pages and throw away the ones I didn't need I took the file to work and opened the pdf with an edit program we have.
I was able to get rid of nearly half the pages and print it out double sided.
If anyone would like a copy of the abbreviated pdf send me an e-mail roy_matson at yahoo dot ca
Regards
Roy
-
That's really sad Peter, I'm sorry you lost your friend that way.
I don't think I would even try and salvage parts off a bike like that, it should have been buried along with your friend.
My V11 was in a similar accident, car turning in front but fortunately the owner came off with a few scrapes
and i was able to purchase the bike and restore it. Broken headlight mainly.
Again, my condolences on your loss
Roy
-
That's great guys.
I will have at it then.
Will check out the manuals on the site you provided.
Roy
-
That's great,
I see you have changed the bars on your bike. This is something I need to do. Can you give me some details.
Thanks
Roy
-
I read the tech note about doing the valves. I have been putting this task off because I don't have new gaskets.
Is it OK to put the old ones back?
BTW, where do I get a decent manual for V11 Sport?
Thanks
Roy
-
Slightly off topic - when I replaced my relays I added an LED to the base of each one, It tells me if the relay is energized.
-
You could do the same with a spray dye for auto interior parts that's available at most auto part stores. I've had very good results with it on a vinyl motorcycle seat & backrest, and a friend of mine used it on a watercraft seat 3 or 4 years ago and it hasn't worn off yet.
Thanks Tom, my bags are soft I will check out the spray next weekend. Will keep you posted.
Regards
Roy
-
The best bet when adding relays to the headlights is to mount the relays right in the headlight shell.
Great idea, as an electrician I looked at the schematic and worried that the headight might fail with all those contacts in series. Using a separate relay for each filament should mean at least one will remain working.
As a winter project I added an LED to the base of each relay wired to the N/O contact that way I can tell at a glance if one has failed to pick up
Roy
-
Tried filing Aluminium, it soon clogs up the file.
One of these surform files work great for removing a lot of metal in a short time.
http://www0.epinions.com/Stanley_Surform_File_Shop_Tools
Roy
-
Hi Roy
Coupla thoughts
I've replaced 2 V11 speedo cables, one on my 2000 Sport, after the worm gear drive at the gearbox (you don't have this) popped off its retaining disk, and the cable came out on the road somewhere in the mountains, and one on a Pal's '04 LM, (of the "angle-bent shroud design") which had gone dry and corroded, snapping in 2 (very common on this Forum over the years).
You can have just about any cable of this kind remade as good as, or better than new at your local speedo shop, as long as you bring in both ends of the broken cable and the cable shroud -- for a tiny fraction of the cost of a new Guzzi cable. They simply use new generic rotary cable and match up the previous length with new ends, using the old shroud. In many cases, they will do it in a matter of minutes while you wait. One shop that I'm familiar with guarantees their work.
If you lube the cable properly, it will last many times longer than if you allow it to go dry -- possibly indefinitely. I use gearbox lube gravity-fed from the speedo end overnight through a taped-on funnel. The lube will be drawn down the length of the cable by the spiral windings of the cable, lubing the cable drive gears inside the gearbox.
NOTE: Despite popular delusions to the contrary, and the common Forum justifications for negligence of lubing the cable,
there is NO POSSIBILITY of contaminating the instrument with cable lube. It simply does not, and cannot happen, due to the rotation of the cable and the direction of the cable winding. Yes, I have verified this before, during, and after many tens of thou miles on the road. 
Hope this helps you extend the life of your new cable.
I couldn't find a speedo shop locally, The shroud had a bad kink, must have got caught in the steering somehow. and very rusty otherwise I would have just replaced the inner with a kit from the local auto parts store.
I put it on my Christmas wish list but unfortunately the one the supplied wouldn't fit. Apparently they have to get one from Italy.
I'm not too impressed by the local dealer but buying on line usually works out more expensive with duty and broker fees.
Thanks for the lube tips
Roy
-
Thanks guys, that's just what I need
-
Hi,
The speedo cable on my 02 V11 Sport is broken. I have ordered another one but the dealer expects it to be a month or more.
Can someone tell me the speed in kmh for 1000 RPM in each gear so I can ride by tacho in the meantime.
Thanks in advance
Roy
-
Good stuff, Roy. Personally I don't see the point of adding a LED and keeping the bulb for the fuel though. But at least it will light up if the bulb breaks, so you wont run out of fuel without warning.
Raz,
I take it you used a resistor instead, about 120 Ohm I figure. You would need to use at least a 1/2 Watt to keep it from overheating.
The incandescent lamps has one slight advantage over the resistor in that it's resistance is low when cold (~10 Ohms), this should provide more current to the thermistor so it heats faster and it goes up to about 150 Ohms when on. Having said that I might have used the resistor but I didn't have one to hand.
How did you get on with the lampholders?
I haven't tested mine with an empty tank yet.
I doubt the bulb will ever burn out as it only turns on slowly but if it does it will be fail-safe as you say.
Cheers
Roy
-
I installed LEDs to replace the Incandescent lamps in my V11 Sport. I had a few problems which I will list below in the hopes that others will benefit.
I ordered 74-R lamps from SuperBrightLEDs , 1 Blue, 2 Green, 3 Red $1.19ea.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/sto...mini-wedge.html
1) First of all I tried a direct replacement without success. The bases look similar but on close examination the LED contact wire is wrapped around the end of the base and bent back so it makes contact on both sides (see print) shorting out the lampholder. I tried clipping one side off the wire, this works but not well as it's a little tricky getting it into the base. Since the LEDs are long lasting I decided to remove the contacts and solder the lamps in place. The rubber base comes out quite easy with a bit of tugging and the new lamps fit snugly.
2) Because the wires have oxidized over the years I had dificulty getting a good solder joint so I clipped the brass contact off leaving the crimp part which is much easier to solder too. Once the wires were connected the lamp slipped back into the rubber base.
3) Unlike incandescent lamps LEDs are uni directional (diode) so you need to make sure they are connected up with the right polarity by turning on the ignition and touching the lamp to the wires.
Current in the flasher circuit indicator lamp flows in both directions from the active side to the non active side so it needs some additional components. I added a bridge rectifier from Radio Shack. A couple of diodes will also work if the negative side of the lamp is connected to the chassis (see print).
4) My V11 Sport has a thermistor type low fuel sensor, this draws about 20 mA with the tank full. The heat this produces is carried away by the fuel. When the fuel is low the thermistor is no longer kept cool so it heats up, the resistance drops, the current goes up some more until it draws enough current to light the incandescent lamp. Unfortunately the 20 mA the lamp thermistor draws turns on the LED as it only requires 10 mA for full brightness. The solution is to add some additional load in parallel with the LED. I could have used fixed resistors but one of the old lamps in parallel does a better job.
If your bike has one of the reed type level switches the additional load will not be required.
In hind sight I should have ordered 6 new lampholders from SuperBright to replace the Guzzi ones. These would have saved me some work and they wouldn't short out like the Guzzi originals. I don't see a suitable holder on their website but I'm sure they have one. (the T10S-SP is too large)
The colour of new LEDs should match the colour of the lenz otherwise they will look dull.
If you have trouble pulling the old glass lamps, pull the rubber base out or a slide piece of plastic tubing over the lamp so that long nose pliers will get a better grip.
Although it took me about 3 hours I am very pleased with the results. The LEDs are more visible in bright sunlight.
While I was at it I added an LEDs to the N/O contact of each relay, but that's another story.
Have Fun
Roy
-
hello again
for all those that offered assitance thank you,it actually turned out to be the throttle position sensor ! i took several readings off it and in the end although it appered to be fine in its calibration i just moved it untill it stopped spitting back and now its fine.
i guess it just needs to be set up where the "sweet spot" is , i havent had to have it adjusted ie serviced for 7-8 years though which is the last time a guzzi mechanic looked at it. Proves that these things are not always calibrated and just left alone. ......a valuable lesson learned
Take a look at my post "Throttle Position Offset", you might find it usefull
Roy
Rear axle V11 Sport
in Technical Topics
Posted
I pulled the rear wheel on my V11 Sport to get new tires fitted.
If I look at the axle it has shiny spots as though the bearings have been spinning on it/
The bearings feel fine but I am wondering if a spacer or something is missing
From the right hand side I have
Large flat washer about 20 thou thick with a large hole (about 1")
Transmission
Spacer about 5/8 thick (item D in manual)
Wheel
Brake caliper
The picture in manual doesn't show the large washer, I'm wondering if it's supposed to be there
The hole in it looks as though it will fit outside the transmissions inner sleeve.
Can someone confirm if it's required.
Thanks in advance
Roy