Chuck
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Posts posted by Chuck
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I used black as all the other grounds on the bike are black (I always thought they were green) but considering the wire runs from mounting bolt to timing bolt, I think anyone else will get that it is ground, but I do get your point, especially on hot wires as it makes sense to stick with the wiring diagram key.
So next question, where is the neutral switch located?
PS. every time you guys mention a part, I go to manual to figure out what it looks like and where it is. You might as well say the thingy next to the whatmamachalit. I'm not that bad
but I did mix up the regulator with ecu....
But thanks for all your help, each of you!
Believe it or not, it's on the transmission.
In the back on the left side. -
If you're worried about feeling the vibration aren't you worried about how effective the mirros will be with all that vibration?
I hadn't noticed the v11 vibrating, but I ride a ktm 640.... sometimes on the 640 I can barely tell there are lights behind me ,never mind working out if they are police or ambulance lights.
Between 4k and 5k rpm, the handlebars can vibrate pretty badly.
Yes, in a way I'd be making the mirrors more blurry by putting them on the ends, but then again I still prefer a blurry picture of a car behind me to a blurry picture of my elbow...
The ends I have on are one piece screwed in the bars, I will stop by a machine shop tomorrow and see how much they'd charge me for the mod.
thanks for the tips.
Hmmm, 4600 is Rosie's sweet spot. Do you have the throttle bodies synced?
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light coat of dielectric grease
dielectric grease *doesn't* conduct electricity by definition. It has caused me a load of grief on a bike that the previous owner thought it was a good idea to put it everywhere there was a connection. Maybe vaseline?
Just sayin..
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I'm running EBC HH pads, and like them very much.. good initial bite and feel.
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OK.......... I think I ould like to have one for my stable..... any chance of one making it to my part of this rock in Canada.
Two chances, slim and none. Keep your hands off of Rosie..
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When it happens, try this.
Take seat off.
Turn key on.
Listen to wirring of fuel pump priming.
If no wirring, tap relay number 4 (I think)
You may hear a click, then the wirring of the pump. Should then start right up.
It is strongly suggested to tightem the relay sockets, and maybe replace the relays. You can get them at any electronic parts supply store for around 3$.
Or you can get'm online.
Get em from Pyro Dan..cheap.
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Thanks very much for that, all very clear.
I managed to come across a thread from someone with a similar problem to me(seems it's not that rare), and BFG suggests sealing it externally with a silicone sealant. I think I'll give it a go first before I start ordering parts. Coward that I am.
It's definetly a gasket leak, the seap is very obvious when you clean the crap off, and there's a small piece of the old gasket escaping.
I did a recce before considering this, and noticed the left screw to the subframe is an allen key type, but the right one is a torx head, which I don't have, but it shouldn't be too hard to get hold of. Wonder why the variation?
Also I see some people mention using grease to keep the gasket in place before tightening, and some people mention sealant. I'm guessing this is the same silicone sealant that's been suggested for the external fix?( I think loctite was mentioned?)
Thanks again...
An external fix is *not* a long time solution. Do it once, do it right.
Be extremely careful if using silicone, many engines have been destroyed when a glob of it got stuck in an oil galley. -
I'm interested in getting a roperplate but I'm having trouble contacting Pete Roper. Anybody have any current contact info? Also I aminterested in buying or getting info on some plastic bites that used to be made buy the forum handle "EDGE" if anybody has any around they didn't use or want to sell I'd be interested. If nobody has any does anyone know what material was used. I found some stuff called Cydex that looks good but not easy to get. Any other suggestions?
The last I knew, Todd at MPH had some plates. I think Pete has a new run of them. He might be along shortly.
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I had a leak on mine from what first appeared to be the head gasket. 300 miles and it would leave oil on my left boot and traces between the head and barrel. It turned out to be the o rings on the head studs gone hard, in particular on the cap that fits over the stud on the inner most short stud. That one vents straight to the great outdoors by the oil feed pipe.
That's the common big block leak..
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The stock suspension isn't bad, but IMHO, it's not in the same league as properly set up Ohlins.
YMMV, of course. -
Oil leaks on airplanes are a royal PITA to find because of the way cooling air blasts through the cowling. It might look like it's coming from the back, but it's in the front, etc.
Here's an easy way to find an oil leak:
Clean it up really well with Stoddard solvent (or equivalent) and an air gun. Blow everything dry. Get some aerosol powdered athlete's foot spray, and spray it everywhere you think it even *might* be leaking. Start it up and let it run a little while. You'll find that leak..
Baby powder works too, but I've never found that in an aerosol can. 
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The last I knew, Todd at MPH had some.
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You will be lucky if you see a cafe sport for sale- not many around at all.
If its the Ohlins you crave then the Scura / Scura R / Coppa Italia / Nero Corsa / Rosso Corsa all have Ohlins suspension- Scuras probably turn up more often than the rest.
Excellent.Thank you for the advice. It is the shiny bits that I want.
Be aware that unless it has been changed out, the Scura will have the single plate clutch.
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They call me contrary and I couldn't agree more. Since I discovered them (Centauro was the first of several) I've never had anything else. Don't expect to, either..
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Reading in the workshop manual, I just discovered something I find a bit odd:
"TRANSMISSION SHAFT
Replace the shaft with transmission joints every 20000
Km; If the motorbike is mainly used for racing-type driving,
or usually high speed driving, replace every 15000 Km."
Anyone doing this as a routine?
I try to grease the joints and the shaft once a year, and have never changed either of them on any of my bikes...
That was just a cut and paste from the old Daytona that didn't have a greaseable u joint. The Centauro manual said to lube on this schedule. I put 42K miles on my Centauro doing this, and 2 owners later, it's still fine.
Lube it, don't worry, be happy.
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If you're a cheap bastard like me you would make your own.
Ahh, a true Guzzi Guy.
The true Guzzista braids them from his own chest hair.
Dang! I have too much American Indian blood, no body hair to speak of..
I guess I'll never qualify. -
We *might* show you the secret handshake..
If you tell us all about your V11S, where you are, maybe a picture, etc.. -
Uh, actually, Superman could have just flown around the earth BACKWARDS, so fast that he could have turned back time, to just before you put that filter on...
But seriously, do you rub a little oil on the gasket of a new filter before you put it on? I was taught to do that and have never had the tightness or gasket damage issues...of course, NOW I've written this, I undoubtly will
Yep.
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If you're a cheap bastard like me you would make your own.
I traced around a new one I bought in a moment of weakness.
Do you think $23 is ok for a simple paper gasket?
Ahh, a true Guzzi Guy.
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I would just change all the fluids, adjust valves, sync throttle bodies, etc. and ride the crap out of it. It's been sitting a long time, and you may just have some sticking rings. Some Marvel Mystery oil in the gas (upper cylinder lubricant) can't hurt.
I see this sort of thing all the time in airplanes that sit a lot. No need for surgery, yet.
Check back after a few hundred miles.. if it is still acting up, it's time for a leak down compression test to see what is going on. -
Two years since the last thank you. So I will thank you again, I just finished this morning. Pretty easy job, I just wish I knew how the PO got the oil filter on so tight. I did add the hoseclamp filter stopper.
Filter tightness or looseness may be one of those enigmas that are unsolvable by the mind of mere mortals.
I had one hell of a time changing the filter on the Mighty Scura this time. The gasket tore off the filter before the filter came off. There was no way Superman could have removed it via the sump hole. Who put it on last time?? Me. Same way I always do it. -
Hi Denis
I had a Tenni a couple of Guzzis ago. The Tenni along with the Scura has a lightweight racing clutch. I f you do a search failure is well documented. I followed the advice, at the time, and had a RAM replacement fitted. This was sourced from Agostini. If you are going to use a dealer it will not be cheap as it is an engine out of frame job. I have a Stelvio now but do miss my Tenni.
Good luck, Nigel
Thanks for the advice - I think I'll decline the Tenni - I wouldn't have the patience / tools / skill to tackle this job, it would be not financially worth the risk etc.
I think that's a good decision if you can't do the work. Look for any LeMans or the 03-04 V11s.
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Ventura luggage system (or just the racks) for a V11S.
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Don't understand why the clutch would rattle if it is engaged. I can imagine it could be noisy when disengaged (clutch lever pulled) as the plates could flop around on their splines but when engaged the springs should hold everything tight - so why would it rattle.
Thank-you all for your considered replies, they put my mind at rest at least until I took the bike out this evening.
It would not change out of first gear! I really annoyed the neighbours coming home!
Off to seach the forums once again .........
Not shifting out of first gear is another thing entirely. *Assuming* your linkage is ok, it'll be a broken return spring on the transmission. There is plenty of info on this list on fixing that..
high rpm clutch slippage
in Technical Topics
Posted
I'd try the mineral spirits flush. It worked on my LM 1000 when a dumbass service "technician" overfilled the transmission.