Chuck
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Posts posted by Chuck
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Ventura luggage system (or just the racks) for a V11S.
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Don't understand why the clutch would rattle if it is engaged. I can imagine it could be noisy when disengaged (clutch lever pulled) as the plates could flop around on their splines but when engaged the springs should hold everything tight - so why would it rattle.
Thank-you all for your considered replies, they put my mind at rest at least until I took the bike out this evening.
It would not change out of first gear! I really annoyed the neighbours coming home!
Off to seach the forums once again .........
Not shifting out of first gear is another thing entirely. *Assuming* your linkage is ok, it'll be a broken return spring on the transmission. There is plenty of info on this list on fixing that..
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Simple, effective.
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No production manufacturing process is perfect. This is truly a weird failure, though.
You would *expect* the rod bolt to fail, but this doesn't appear to be the case. I don't think I'll be worrying about Rosie 
or the Mighty Scura 
doing the same thing.. 
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Thanks for the info. I've tried heat, along with hammering a larger size star drive into the rounded heads. No luck. Maybe I didn't heat it long enough, but I was worried about getting the rubber bits too hot or ruining the wheel. Unfortunately I don't have access to any impact tools. Same goes for the front rotors which have to be replaced due to warping. Those wouldn't budge either. Before rounding them I decided to stop. Off to the dealer I go. They said they could take care of the stubborn fasteners when changing the tires & rotors.
The impact driver you need is a hand tool, not an air tool. You hit it with a hammer (I use a mini sledge hammer) and it applies a twisting motion in addition to the impact force of being hit with the hammer. They are relatively cheap to buy at any store that sells tools.
If you are applying the heat to the outside of the wheel with a propane torch I don't think you could heat the rubber wedges inside the wheel up hot enough to melt. Just apply the heat to the wheel itself where the bolts screw in to, not to the bolt it self.
Impact drivers are required equipment if you're going to work on a motorcycle. Don't cost much. The brass or copper hammer you use to hit it with costs more.. Heat those suckers to soften the thread locker, whack it with the impact diver, unscrew it. Nothing to it.
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Hey! A rubber chicken is all right, innit?
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I've removed the reaction rod, and the bushings look like they are nearly ineffectual. They are blown out on both ends, inner and outer. All 4 sides look like this.
This is likely contributing to the harsh jerking when rolling on and off throttle.
A few searches and a call to MG Cycle lead me to believe that it's not possible to buy just the bushings. It also would seem that there are no OEM assembly replacements readily available. MG Cycle carries a complete assembly by Stucchi. http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=2653&osCsid=23eb9414aa65c810101dd4e9fea64516
It's nice looking, but I was hoping for a less expensive option. What have others found when replacing these bushings? Maybe an automotive equivalent is available.
The deeper I dig into this bike, the more love it needs. Good thing I love it.
If it were mine, I think I'd be firing up the lathe and making some delrin bushings..
dunno. -
I went on a ride today. A little chilly but I felt like going out for a couple hundred miles.
On they way back, stuck in highway construction traffic, I stopped next to two kids on Japanese bikes. All black, slick tires, pretty fast looking.
And they saw the V11, and both gave the an enthusiastic and appreciative thumbs up.
And I though... hell yes!
The V11, to me... is one of the best looking bikes... ever.
I love this bike, and I'm lucky to own one of the very rare Canadian ones...
That's all.
Have a nice day.
Enjoy you ride.
Well, I have 2 of em, so I must like them, too..
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Hey boys and girls.......... any one out there have a spotless low /low milage Nero/Rosso corsa ( I mean perfect) unmolested example that they may concider parting with in the near future??
PM me if you do. Regards;
Really........... no one with a prestine low milage rosso out there........ Im a nice person.
Pics if you dare. PM me
The only low-mileage NC or RC models I've seen online have been DECIDEDLY less than pristine (crashed): it seems to me that the folks who payed extra for the good suspension parts & fancy paint jobs really like to ride'em not hide'em!
Good luck on your search!
Aw........... Its a big world out there,me thinks some ones hiding one!!
Pm . me if you want to keep a secret...... I wont tell.
regards;
There was a girl on the east coast, Ga, I think, that was trying to sell her dad's (RIP) Rosso. I was watching it on Craigs list. She started at 12K and had come down to around 10 or so when Ebay shut down the Craigs list search engines. Don't know if she sold it or not, but maybe it's a clue for your hunt.. Rosso's and Neros are scarce. Trust me. Pristine ones are almost non existant.
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To the best of my knowledge, the only way to swap the early white face Vag with the ITI is to use the gear drive from a 5 speed. They're a different gear ratio. Now, maybe the V11 Vag is the same gear ratio, but *I think* the threads on the back of the tach are different. I'd make sure before going ahead, at any rate.
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I have heard about synthetic possibly damaging the plastic retainers on the transmission input and output shaft in early 90s Guzzis.That said, I just filled the Scura transmission and and rear drive with Redline.
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Paging Todd............ @ guzzi teck.Need to talk about wave rotors on /04 V-11s
PM me if you get this.
Regards;
Why don't you ping him? Todd@Guzzitech.com
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I have used a tester similar to the one Chuck presents here, with good results. And it's easy to use: connect it, find the TDC (compression stroke), gear in, press the brake pedal (otherwise the piston will be blowed down...), apply air pressure, read the gauge and listen for leakage.
The good thing -as Chuck explains- is that it tells you in an easy way where the eventual leakage is. If there is no leakage on either of the cylinders, I don't really see the need for a compression tester...
Of course you would need a compressor in addition to the tester, but that's almost a must even for a hobby mechanic anyway, isn't it...?
If you have it *exactly* on TDC, it won't blow the piston down.
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Aircraft mechanics use a leak down tester to determine an engine's condition at every annual inspection. It's used by bringing the cylinder up on TDC on the compression stroke, and applying 80 psi to the unit by adjusting the regulator on the left. The air goes through a metered orifice, and the second gauge shows the amount of leakage.
Naturally, a perfect cylinder will show 80/80. That almost never happens. 10% leakage would be 80/72, and is fine. Investigation begins when a cylinder is under 80/70, although that is not necessarily bad. The good thing about this is this:
If you listen to the exhaust, you can tell whether an exhaust valve is leaking, at the carb for intake valve, or at the engine breather, rings.
Simple, no? And a much better way of ascertaining engine condition than a "compression gauge."
It's $50-100 at aircraft suppliers.
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Did you buy Derek's?
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Hope you have a boat.
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Update Rant:
I looked at all Carl's drawings for 2000, 2002, Every one of the solenoids is wired through the ignition switch, I don't know what Luigi was
at the time but obviously he didn't realize that the starter solenoid would like to pull about 50 Amps for the split second it takes to pull in.Damn it's nice being spoon fed; thank you. I just dug out my CA schematic and noticed it's for a 1999 model. My 2003ish owner's manual tells the other, less happy story.
Sorry if I've missed this, but is the solution a fused hotwire to pin 30 on the starter relay?
I occasionally need to thumb the start switch more than once, and none of my attempts to rejuvenate switches/contacts/starter have cured it.
That may very well be the solenoid itself that is sticking. Pull it off and clean it. Betcha a dollar that will cure it.
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More good stuff..
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Try pulling the starter and removing the solenoid ,clean all the gunk on it off,probably clutch plate dust, and then give er a try.That cleaned up my slow starting,still have the original Spark 500 in her.
Before you invest in a new battery .Worth an hour or two,less if you've pulled the starter before.
This.
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Chuck, the speedo screw you mentioned IS glued on. Unfortunately, that was they way the instructions said to attach it. I was there when this was replaced. Guzzi did not offer or have a knob that would fit the little threaded shaft ! I intervened and had a cooperative dealer send us several knobs and none of them would fit. It is glued on but it should not be too terribly hard to break loose. Im thinking a little dab of RTV is what was used.
You shoulda emailed me about some of these things !
Well, thanks David! I thought maybe you'd get tired of me pestering you about stuff.
Since I have your attention.. how about the internal fuel filter/hose/clamps? Same as used on the CalVins, etc.? This one ever been changed out if so? -
I have it on the calendar. I'll see if my kid and his greenie want to come, too..
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G'day guys. I think you'll find the problem has more to do with using stainless bolts in alloy forks , ie it'll happen even without the carbon fibre bits. IN the boating world we use duralac between dissimilar metals to try and reduce the problem. Some genius put a stainless bolt into the alloy end of my yachts boom and it's never coming out! I've tried all the usual things- soaking with wd 40, heating and freezing it, impact driver...it's there to stay.
And off topic, since this is my first post, this site is an amazing resource! I'm up to page 40 so far and getting just a little paraniod about all the problems I'll be having in the next few weeks - having just picked up an 02 lemans with 5000 km on the clock. Surprisingly I've added 1000 km and nothing has happened in the last couple of weeks, so perhaps it's the honeymoon period?
Well, nobody posts, "Well, I put 16K on the 02 LeMans this year, and all I did was change oil. "
People post stuff when they have a problem.. -
Beautiful bike Roy, when stranded you have to pay what it takes to get home.
Mike
You paid $190.00 (Canadian?) for just the battery?
No, you were sodomized !
FWIW...The BMW dealer wanted $180.00 (US) for a battery for my K100. I got one from a battery vendor for $85.....
Yes, but my Italian girlfriend said
"Buy me a new battery and I'll show you a good time"
What else could I do?
Agreed, Greenies rock!
Le Mans Tenni advice - clutch
in 24/7 V11
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I think that's a good decision if you can't do the work. Look for any LeMans or the 03-04 V11s.