Lucky Phil
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Posts posted by Lucky Phil
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14 minutes ago, docc said:
And the valve cover gasket thickness could compromise that reach? Wow, that is tight tolerance!
No docc but the later engines that run the plug lead over the valve cover might be a tad short if you use the early cover on the later engine and then run the plug lead around the back of the cylinder like the v11 Sport.
EDIT..... sorry docc I didn't see the "gasket" in your earlier post. Thought you were talking about the valve covers. All square fin 2 valve engine rocker cover gaskets are interchangeable as far as I know.
Phil
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16 minutes ago, docc said:
I don't understand that. If a V11 valve cover gasket, of whatever type (Silcone, metal, OEM) is fitted to a later BigBlock, it will seal the valve cover? Yet the plug lead will no longer reach?
Because the plug leads for the later valve covers come over the top of the valve cover under the black plastic cover/crash pad and the original ones come around the back of the head.
Phil
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7 minutes ago, docc said:
But V11 Sport valve cover gaskets WILL NOT fit the later models?
Can't see why they wouldn't docc. You might need to lengthen the plug leads though.
Phil
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I can guarantee you they fit docc. Same as 1100 Griso valve covers fit a V11.
Phil
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4 hours ago, LowRyter said:
Much better idea. The local wrench in Tulsa liked those. The question was whether they fit. If so, why in the world wasn't this a superseded part?
The crimped stainless steel gasket with a pressure sensitive sealant coating is a leap forward in gasket sealing over the old style composite and it's variations in different materials. The "crimp" in the metal base acts like a spring to adapt to changes in the joint due to thermal expansion etc or in the case of an MLS head gasket variations in temps between say the bore bridge area and the outer circumference of the cylinder. They also adapt to the rigors of high stress engines that can sometimes suffer from "head lift" and still maintain a seal. The pressure sensitive coating function is self evident. Brilliant things and cheap to buy. A must fit to the BB front engine cover anytime you have it off.
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42 minutes ago, LowRyter said:
I've used them. Had them tear. And find they're difficult to reuse once they get a little bent. I advise anyone as ham fisted as me to always carry a couple of spares if they're going overnight or longer. I find it's easiest to glue paper ones with grease to the head and install the cover over it. The silicone gaskets like to squirm around.
I know some riders that have never changed out the paper gasket and never had a problem. Man, they're good.
It's ancient technology. These.
https://www.valpolini.com/index.php/home-en/prodotto?&fID=1574
Phil
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1 hour ago, docc said:
This is precisely why the automotive industry moved to "steady state" coolant temperature gauges (if any coolant temp gauge at all!). Ever notice that your car's coolant temp gauge points right at the middle, or slightly below, within a mile from start-up? And never varies, even in brutally hot ambient temps stuck in traffic?
This is because owners would present their vehicle for service because "the needle is all over the place!" Now the "needle" stays "steady state" over a very broad range of (normal) operating temperatures.
Actual coolant temperature (and perhaps oil pressure?) is like sausage. The less we know about the details, the better we sleep at night . . .
Back in the 80's docc I had a new GPZ900 Kawasaki. They used to run quite high engine temps, a little higher than what most people were used to. So the complaints came as did the traffic to the dealership mechanics. Kawasaki's response? They fitted a resistor to the gauge to bring the reading down a little. Complaints ceased.
Phil
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These are a sub optimal solution. The Gold standard are Valpolini metal core gaskets with integral sealer coating. Same style and principle as the late model BB front timing cover gaskets and every engine cover gaskets Ducati have used for the last 25 years. Bullet proof sealing and zero chance of squeeze failure.
Phil
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5 hours ago, motortouring said:
Well, to me it shows some constant time that I like to relate to the slope of pressure drop when the engine is turned off. I started doing this when I had a pressure problem with a LM3. That light went off the instant the killswitch was off.
It turned to have a bad adjusted pressure valve and worn crankshaft bearings.
I guess a sort of a tick.
For general information to anyone reading this thread in the future this methodology is flawed and it's best to stick with the historically tried and tested oil pressure observations for troubleshooting. This LOP light on after the kill switch timing thing has way too many variables to be a troubleshooting tool. If the engine runs fine and has no unusual noises and the LOP stays off at idle in hot weather in traffic and the used oil has no concerning contamination then all is fine with the oil system. What do you do on a weekend trip or touring trip when you use this observation technique? Stop for fuel and for one of a dozen different reasons the LOP light illuminates without or with a reduced delay compared to usual observations? Pull up and start troubleshooting and have the engine apart? What would be an acceptable amount of delay? 1 second? 3 seconds? Sometimes people can go looking for issues and worries. Fitting an OPG every 30 or 40,000klms for an oil system evaluation would be reasonable but only for the oil pressure obsessed.
It's the same as permanently fitted LOP gauges, a waste of time and added failure points and complexity. All you get is additional things to worry about and questions to observations you don't have the knowledge to understand. There's a good reason motorcycles in particular don't come standard with LOP gauges and only a light. It's just too cruel for the OCD riders out there. Even modern cars with LOP gauges dont use actual direct reading gauges anymore they use an indication derived and calculated from the ecu for the display and rely on a LOP switch and light for indication and warnings. If they used direct reading gauges that indicated the actual oil pressure the dealerships would be overflowing with owners with oil pressure issues. It's not just about the engineering but human psychology as well.
Phil
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2 hours ago, motortouring said:
Phil, this is indeed not well explained. I switch OFF with the RUN/STOP button, because I like to check the delay in the OIL Pressure Light. That is where the delay is coming from.
OK, but the question is why would you do that? The time it takes to illuminate is of no empirical value. I don't know of anyone that monitors such things so answers might be hard to come by.
Phil
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36 minutes ago, motortouring said:
I like to share a little observation with you. It might look familiar and I am interested in your experience.
I used to ride pre-injection Guzzi's like the Cali 2 and LM2 and 3. They have always a very clear oil-pressure-light behavior. Switch-ON(the master-key or ignition-key)--> Oil pressure light is ON. Start engine --> Oil light turns OFF. Engine running --> Oil pressure light OFF. Turn OFF ignition --> 3-6 sec delay and Oil pressure light turns ON.
With my V11 2002 it is like this. So, it satisfies my expectation.
With my V11 '99 it is different. The oil pressure light stays of after the engine stalls(Ignition OFF) and the oil pressure light is sometimes ON when Ignition is ON and engine is not running. But not always. It feels to me like the switch has some hysteresis or something or the oil pressure remains above 0,5 bar near the switch. I use 10w60 oil, the viscosity is a little higher, could this have an effect.
Then we have the V11 LeMans '02 of a friend. I have not seen that light ON for ages, so that will probably be a defect light. We grounded the wire to the oil-pressure sensor and that didn't switch the light ON. Now in the 25 years that I am riding Guzzis, this light has never been the cause (there can always be a first time) .
Your description doesn't make sense for the 02 v11. You turn the ignition switch OFF and after a 3-6 second delay the LOP light comes ON? It comes on with the ignition switch OFF?
Here's how it works or is supposed to work. Turn ignition ON, LOP light ON. Start engine, LOP light goes OFF. Mine goes OFF during cranking. Turn ignition OFF,LOP light goes off with engine shutdown along with everything else. Any variation on that and you have an issue.
Phil
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Do you have the injector plugs correctly installed? they take quite a lot of "push" sometimes to overcome the locking clip on the connector. The pump, injectors and coils feed from then same relay so if one works they all should. Is the ECU correctly grounded?
Phil
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On 2/17/2009 at 12:01 AM, WRC said:
I have the '02 LeMans and have read the FAQ about this topic. I'm going to order a spring as a spare, but have a question about pulling off the plate to replace the spring and check the boss diameter.
When you unbolt the plate/cover, according to the diagram in the parts book, it looks like the whole assembly in question is attached/mounted to the plate.
Looks like you just pop off the c-clip, pull back the boss and put the new spring on.
When you reinstall the plate, what has to be aligned? Do things fall back in place without any fuss or do certain parts have to be aligned carefully, etc? Should the transmission be in a specific gear or neutral prior to removing the plate?
I hate to pull off covers and things fall off or get out of time, etc. Any step by step hints will be greatly appreciated.
In the FAQ there was a note about frame numbers that had the problem. Is this acurate, if mine is a higher number I would not need to be concerned?
Thanks
Bob Collett
Lexington, NC
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6 minutes ago, docc said:
+1 on the best wishes! Very promising (and perhaps a bit intrepid) to right the EV, mount up, ride away.
It's the equivalent of someone hurting themselves and immediately getting up running away at full speed. The 'flight" response. If I can still run/ride away from the location of the trauma then I must be relatively ok and I leave behind the "danger zone" or trauma location. I'm surprised the Cops allowed him to ride away.
Phil
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Bummer but glad your mostly ok. Sounds like that foreign object wrapped around the front wheel was the culprit.
Phil
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1 hour ago, czakky said:
Hey all, longtime! In the finishing stages of a v7 sport resto. I’m trying to re-create the original Legnano Verde (?) color. I thought the most obtainable piece maybe a V11 sport greenie side cover. They’re plastic and fragile. Therefore I’d imagine someone may have a broken one laying around? Again I’m just looking for a color representation.
PM me if you have something.
thanks
Bill
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13 hours ago, LaGrasta said:
…looking at images from the day I received the bike, I see now I've swapped sides with the petcock and regulator. However, I don't believe this matters providing I've plumbed it correct. I'll be checking all of this hopefully this coming weekend. Why did this happen, 100% because of the service manual, their illustration displays it as such.
As for your specific question docc about the two hoses, I'll have to give it a look when i get home from work today and report back.
As I think I mentioned previously there's no problem which sides you have the tap and reg on except issues of enough space to effectively configure hoses etc. When I put the Daytona engine in the V11 I was seriously considering swapping sides because of clearance issues between the reg and the TPS but decided the std way was better and shaved a few mm off the reg holder.
Phil
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I'd love a scooter. I hired one in Rome 25 years ago to ride around for a few days 2 up with the wife. It was nothing special as it was a hire scooter maybe 125 at the most and it was great fun. I'd like one for quick trips to the shops for milk etc.
Phil
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7 hours ago, LaGrasta said:
It doesn't work. The outlet is not for a 12mm hose. So now you need an adaptor to take you from a 5/16 or 8mm hose to the 12mm pump inlet size over a very short run of hose which is extremely hard to do as you need every bit of flex over that short length of hose to align with the pump inlet. even if you can you now you have additional clamps and possible leak points. Oh and in addition the Guzzi uses a 16mm thread on the tank connection which this doesn't suit.
If it was this simple I wouldn't have bothered modifying the original.
Phil
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The main issue with the crinkle finish is it's by nature quite thickly applied. I stripped it off a gearbox a few years ago for the V10 Sport and in some locations it was 2mm thick. Took a lot of work and many applications of automotive stripper of several different brands. personally I'd get anything with this finish professionally chemically stripped where they can leave it in a tank for a few days.
Phil
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45 minutes ago, docc said:
That tank schematic is bizarre! (and wrong) I never noticed that before.
It is looking entirely possible that your fuel plumbing got mixed up . . .
Your are in a manner docc reading the schematic wrongly. The tank and frame are ghosted out and not really part of the schematic and are just there for "context" not absolute indication. So as an example the pump and filter assy aren't really mounted on the LHS of the frame as the parts manual image tends to show by the ghosted frame. You also have the issue at times of the optical illusion problem of "which perspective you are viewing from. You need to be careful with schematic representations of parts orders as well. In aviation it wont save you in a court of law as they are legally "representations only" not absolute indications. Same for shop manuals that are often made with images of pre production bikes that change and often differ a bit from the production versions.
Phil
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The tap should be on the left so the odd sized 12mm outlet hose is as short as possible directly into the fuel pump. There's limited room down there and the 12mm hose is quite stiff so you don't need it taking up more space than absolutely necessary and also putting unnecessary strain on the pump inlet with it looping around under there. The taps are a good design let down by cheaping out on the seal material. They can't be disassembled and re assembled without modification. I did a thread on the modification I came up with on these so they use Viton seals which don't swell in fuel instead of the std nitrile which do and it can be rebuilt in the future. The mod also means the tap doesn't jam after time when the original seals swell. using pliers to close them for tank removal puts strain on the fuel tank fastener inserts and if you damage one of these then the whole tank is junk.
Phil
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8 hours ago, docc said:
These "selector dog collars" are the "sliding dogs"/ "shift sleeves" (what the Parts Catalog calls "hoses" (2) and "moveable hoses" (8) ?), along with the "Cush-drive assembly" ("Bellville washer tower" and/or #15/#16?) that were the subject of the early 6speed gearbox recall?
Thats correct docc.
Phil
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Argal, Italian for Ergal, lol. Aluminium 7075.
Phil
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Front brake calliper upgrade
in Technical Topics
Posted
In progress.
Phil