Lucky Phil
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Posts posted by Lucky Phil
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Yea docc thats why I always actually use "Guzzi part" not just Guzzi before the numbers in fact. Forgot the "part" bit.
I must say parts are getting harder and harder to come by these days. New parts are thin on the ground and used parts are more affordable but there's a lot of "suspect" parts and sellers out there and shipping is making the costs exorbitant. You should see the cost and speed of availability of RE parts direct from India. The parts are dirt cheap and the service is the best I've ever experienced. Hows $300US for a brand new painted fuel tank shipped to your door in under 10 days sound.
Phil
Phil
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There is only one way to know the required bearing spacer length. Measure it. As already pointed out the factory has supplied 3 different lengths at different times so how do you know 113 is the right answer for your wheel. When you remove the first wheel bearing use a 6"vernia to depth measure between the old bearing race ( provided it isn't totally shagged) and the wheel bearing recess shoulder and thats the spacer length you need plus, .1 to .2mm exactly. Any less than the base measurement and you'll have bearing issues any more than the baseline plus .2mm and you should be fine. A little longer is fine a little shorter is not. Years ago I used some glued on shims to adjust the length of mine as it was only .5 or so short and I couldn't machine up a new spacer at that time.
Phil
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42 minutes ago, docc said:
That is good advice! I find that some websites use the GU and others do not. I always search a particular source both ways.
I always google Guzzi and the p/n without the GU. Don't know if I'm missing out on some sources but I've always got more than I can deal with that way.
Phil
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1 hour ago, BlackEmperor_Moto said:
Hi all!
Been lurking here about 18 months. About as long as I’ve had my (new to me) V11. The information on this forum has been invaluable to me for getting my hands dirty with maintenance stuff on my bike. Now it seems I need some advice.
I needed tires / tyres, I figured it was a simple enough chore. I didn’t bother reading up on it here (lesson learned). That is until my 2nd set of rear wheel bearings in as many months. So I did some research and found the post on ever shrinking rear wheel bearing spacer. Excellent! I thought, a solution. Until I tried to get one. There do not seems to be any new ones available in the US and lead time to get one is 6 f’ing weeks.
the bike: 2003 V11 sport all stock (as far as I can tell) 17k miles on the ODWhich brings me to my question:
do any of you amazing Moto Guzzi aficionados have, know where I can get, or have a known fabricator for this rear wheel spacer
also verifying some info - OEM part number is
GU01634000
yes?
thanks in advance!
You leave off the GU when searching for or ordering Guzzi parts. Just use the numerics.
Phil
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39 minutes ago, guzzler said:
I might have to have an extra glass of shiraz later on too....
That's where all my ideas come from Shiraz and Merlot.
Phil
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14 hours ago, Speedfrog said:
I do like that definition Phil, and the very astute introduction of the concept of design as opposed to Art when it comes to objects with a physical functionality.
The trouble with definitions is that sometimes the line gets blurry, for example with that painting you hang on the wall to cover a hole, it’s not Art to you because you have given it a physical function, but a person looking at that same painting not knowing about the hole in the wall could still see it as Art.
Again all very dependent on the audience / the eye of the beholder. And I don’t think you could call that “wall patch” design either...
By the same token, the “motorcycle” that I posted a picture of earlier, it is obvious that its physical functionality is so very limited that if you were to attribute it with the “design” epithet it would have to be preceded by “bad”. So, could it be Art?
Blurry lines indeed.
Like Tom would say, its double IPA time.
True, so to support my logic I would need an arrow on the wall and signage "hole behind" or some such wording.
Phil
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4 hours ago, docc said:
Focused on the front collar
I was so excited about the possibility of finally finding the elusive reason why the Short Frame front U-joint is SO IMPOSSIBLE to approach.
It occurred to me that, if the later front collars are a larger ID, that would be the difference. If not, The enigma remains . . .
The only differences between the short and long frame bikes in that area that I'm aware of is the added gearbox mount arms and the larger dia swingarm pivot boss threads. It's possible that the bikes have slightly different ride heights and therefore slightly different front universal joint angles. A slight change in the universal joint angle may make a big difference in getting the grease fitting to attach. Just a thought.
Phil
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Define "art" well here's a definition I've thought of. If it's functional it's not "art" it's "design". In other words as soon as it has a "function" and by that I mean a physical function as opposed to an emotional function it's NOT art. Art is not designed to be physically functional. So it therefore follows if you hang a painting to cover a hole in the wall it is no longer "art" but a wall patch. Seems logical to this engineer.
I think I'm fairly happy with that admitted "thought bubble".
Phil
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32 minutes ago, docc said:
Does anyone have a loose front driveshaft protection collar from a later V11 LongFrame [eg: 01 35 86 40 ] to measure the inside diameter?
My early ShortFrame collar [ GU04358600 ] measures 65 mm . . .
Why the question docc? Just the p/n difference?
Phil
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33 minutes ago, activpop said:
I think this is one of the most beautiful airplanes ever designed, along with the Lockheed Constellation. It can stir my soul just like an older Ducati 750 bevel or a V11. Something about the lines that just keep me looking. Isn't that what art does? Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Not everything can spin your propeller, but this Piaggio Avanti does it for me.
Well after 42 years as an aircraft engineer almost exclusively on commercial jets ( I worked on DC4's as an apprentice as well) anything with screaming turbo props leaves me cold in the visceral sense. It might look beautiful in an image like you posted but as soon as those turboprops wind up it's lost me. It's just a tool from then on. A pretty and highly competent tool but a tool non the less. Art? No. Pretty? yes. Beautiful? maybe.
Phil
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9 minutes ago, Art said:
I could swear I'm hunched over more than the image shows. Photo time.
Did you tailor your body dimensions?
Phil
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1 hour ago, PJPR01 said:
If I recall correctly, the plastic receptacle into which the threaded inserts are embedded has that sort of "ridged" structure, hence the alternating length of the screws...I think looking at the bottom of the plastic would reveal more clearly...
I only noticed that same issue when I took the filler cap and screws to "blacken it" to make it look more "Scura like"...I do love the darkness and every silver screw exposed just needed to be blackened!
One of the issues with fastener surface finish be it for colour or corrosion protection is it doesn't last and ages. Part of the reason all my bikes get the titanium fastener treatment. Titanium is not only light and strong but the surface finish remains in brand new out of the packaging condition for ever. Some owner in a hundred years is going to appreciate that.
Phil
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20 hours ago, 4corsa said:
What is your definition of art Phil?
Once something enters the world of having at it's core reason to exist a physical functionality, purpose or use it's not part of the "art" world in my view. A motorcycle or a car by definition are transportation devices first and foremost as is an aircraft. They can be beautifully designed, formed and crafted but in my mind they are not art. A Spitfire no matter how beautiful the design is, is never referred to as a piece of "art" nor was the Concord or any other aircraft ever produced that I can think of for that matter. I wonder why people are so quick to assign the tag of "art" to a particular motorcycle as I've seen many times but not to something like a Spitfire? Both machines designed to transport people to a location albeit by different means but a beautiful motorcycle somehow enters the realms of "art" for some and the beautiful aircraft does not. A mystery to me at least.
The acid test is ask a non motorcyclist if the MV Agusta F41000 is "art" and they'll look at you like you are insane. BTW my MV along with the 1000SS Ducati lived in my lounge room and dining room for years.
Phil
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29 minutes ago, 4corsa said:
"The truth is motorcycles are not art" is not the truth. One of the greatest museums on the face of the earth (The Guggenheim in New York) in 1998 dedicated its entire premises to an exhibition titled The Art of the Motorcycle. https://www.guggenheim.org/exhibition/the-art-of-the-motorcycle
That doesn't mean that all motorcycles are art for sure. But in the hands of someone like Massimo Tamburini, who was trained as an engineer and also had a rare gift for design - the Ducati 996 and MV Agusta F4 most certainly are art. I would argue that they are a higher form of art than a typical sculpture found on a museum floor in that they have to satisfy a far greater list requirements and need to incorporate engineering, aerodynamics, and economics, in addition to theories of art and design.
Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
They don't fit my definition of art and I've owned 3 of them. Beautiful yes, functional, yes, art, no.
Phil
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The problem is people don't understand the difference between engineering, designing and fabricating. Many of these crude and impractical creations are all about fabrication (often quite good) with a pinch of usually bad design thrown in and scant regard to the engineering.
Anyone with some basic tools and hand skills can strip components off a motorcycle (usually the stuff that makes it a practical riding proposition and road legal) and call it a "custom" or an "interpretation" of god knows what. The truth is motorcycles are not "art". They can be beautiful and an expression of a designers philosophy but if they don't adequately fulfil the design brief then they are just a piece of crafted machinery of limited utility. When I see a "customised" motorcycle like some of the examples shown that are intended to be road ridden then I'm with Pete. These bikes don't fulfil the design brief of a real world road rideable machine in the 21st or even the 20th century in most cases.
The other issue is a cultural one. An interesting observation I have made watching many many US based car and motorcycle shows is Individuality is valued above just about everything else in the US and that includes practicality in more cases than I can sometimes believe. Most of these types of bikes are aimed at the American market and the US market is also where the dollar is to spend on such things. And if it's aimed at the American market then these days by default it's aimed at us as well.
If you want to study the most brilliant motorcycle designers on the planet then just call into your local motorcycle shop and see what they are selling. With all the limitations and regulations they are lawfully bound to observe in every country in the world and the necessity to make the product real world road rideable you can't help but be impressed. These people make "customizers" look like the backyard hackers the vast majority really are.
Phil
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On 7/28/2023 at 1:21 AM, LowRyter said:
I know that. My old Camaro had all that too. Computer + knock sensor.
Where I'll disagree is that it won't go any better or faster. No seat of the pants difference whatsoever. I ran both cars for years running 91 premium. I switch to cheap gas and it runs exactly the same. So I've done a before and after. The computer was already calibrated for premium. I don't even pay for 100% gas, I get the cheaper 10% ethanol. If I felt a difference, I'd pay for premium. One advantage with cheap gas, it's fresher and gets pumped out sooner, less chance of old gas and contamination.
If I was tracking the car or running down the strip, I'd follow your advice. I'm a little skeptical it would make more than a few hundredths on the quarter mile but why leave it to chance?
For my bikes, I buy premium. I don't want to risk detonation, particularly those legacy big cylinder air cooled Guzzis with the clunky gearbox that makes me occasional lug the engine if I take out in 2nd. But that's another story.
And I will admit that I'm not totally convinced that what's pumped out of the 91 pump is any different than the 87. Maybe it is, maybe it isn't
You mean the "Crossfire system " ?
Phil
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The original Bitubo damper had failed. I had the Ohlins damper laying around but not the bracket. The original V11 Ohlins bracket I couldn't find anywhere for sale so I acquired the Ducabike item then made the fittings from Ti. Didn't make the Ti bolt and nut though. Made the HDPE washer to control the spherical bearing movement.
Phil
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On 7/26/2023 at 11:13 AM, LowRyter said:
I run my LS-3 6spm Corvette with the cheapest 87 ethanol gas on the pump, same as my Honda Accord. I've never felt a difference in the power or heard a ping.
Air cooled big twins, perhaps you take off in 2nd and don't know it....yeah. BTDT. clack clack... Yeah, I baby my bikes, just because....I mean 4 gallons? I'd never worry if I needed gas to go and cheap gas was all that's available. I might granny the throttle a bit at first. I'd be more worried about the crap in the gas filter.
That's because the adaptive learning in the EFI system had adjusted the LTFT ( long term fuel trim) and ignition to adapt to the low octane fuel you run. It senses LAMBDA and knock and adjusts the ECU to cope with the fuel. If you pull the ECU fuse or disconnect the battery for 10 minutes and then reinstall preferably when the engine is at operating temp (so the idle relearn is faster) and null out all the learned 87 octane parameters and put some 91 octane in it you will feel it go MUCH better.
Phil
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7 hours ago, p6x said:
I came back yesterday from a 1050 miles errand in the sizzling Texas current weather. Max temperature while riding 115 deg F as read on my Formotion temperature gauge before it sheared (again) from its support.
I had to refuel at a Halon station somewhere between Abilene and Coleman; only two choices "Diesel" or "Regular" (87 Octanes) fuel.
Now, on the swing arm of my V11, there is an adhesive that states that I should not run with fuel below 91 Octanes, meaning "Premium". By the way, Halon seem to be the main provider of gas in rural Texas. Their "Premium" is 90 Octanes.
I have had the experience to run engines on low octanes back when I was living in Europe. So I knew what to expect even if modern engines are more resilient to run with lower octane fuel.
The Guzzi did not gave out a single of expected symptoms. In fact, I could distinguish no evidence of having changed fuel quality. The engine responded in exactly the same way.
Anyone else ran with regular gas unscathed?
I did not take it for granted though, and I refilled with Premium to up the Octanes at every opportunity.
Apart from all the marketing garbage there is one reason only to run an engine on high or higher octane fuel, detonation. If the engine doesn't have a detonation problem or the running environment or riding style precludes detonation events then high octane fuels are actually a slight disadvantage. Lower volatility of high octane fuels means harder starting, worse carburation in colder weather, poorer low throttle response, less intake air temp reduction due to latent heat of evaporation etc. If it doesn't need higher octane fuel then there is a tangible disadvantage in running it besides the additional costs. Maybe your bike is running richer than ideal and you were riding it at low loads and even in the hot weather you had enough detonation head room that it was ok. Of course maybe your hearing is suspect and you can't hear detonation and ping.
Interestingly during the war the Germans had all sorts of issues with their high octane fuels causing engine bearing failures due to fuel dilution. To get the octane rating up and due to critical shortages they were using low volatility aromatics that didn't evaporate off effectively so the oil diluted permanently and cause bearing failures.
I do know back in the mid 80's with the first injected 851 Ducatis that were raced tuners ran what they were used to using IE 100 octane avgas and they ran worse than on pump gas and I met a production bike racer at the TT back in 86 that ran it in his Kawasaki 600 at the TT in the production class and he said it carburated worse on the 100 octane.
Phil
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23 hours ago, Kevin_T said:
A digital read out is the best investment you can make to a machine tool. I can't tell if you have power feeds if not that would be next on my list. So, is Santa going to bring you a surface grinder for Christmas? Probably no limit to D.I.Y. projects you could do.
How'd you come by the Centauro crank? Not to have the correct radius is a testimony that should find another business. I mean if they put too big of a radius in the crank you could at least reduce the width of the big end shells. Now too small is just dangerous.
The lathe does on the cross and carriage. The mill does on the X and I'll retro fit on the Z along with a Z DRO I have already so I will have 3 axis DRO on the Mill. A TIG is my next purchase I think.
Bought from a member here. Not his fault he was parting it out for a friend and wasn't to know. I can rescue it I think if I can find a good crank grinder. That crank is for a 95mm bore Daytona engine.
Phil
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8 hours ago, Kevin_T said:
Phil, I'm surprised not a single person commented about your vertical mill. I remember you mentioned on a post that you wanted one, but you defiantly went large. That doesn't look like some hobbyist mill. Three phase? Nice and shiny, not used and abused. That precision vise and rotary table your in deep. I can't wait to hear of all the great things that come from that.
Yes I bought a mill. No point going small and limiting yourself. I want to be able to get a set of crankcases on there. Plenty of projects await. I also upgraded my lathe with a European style QC tool post and have a 2 axis DRO awaiting fitment. I have plenty to learn about using both but it's nice to have the ability to do a lot of things I previously had to put on the back burner. It's difficult to find people to machine stuff these days let alone do it right so this gives me some independence. I have a Centauro crank here that's had the pin reground to the first undersize. The pin has been ground tapered and with the wrong radius so the bearing shells rubs on the radius!
Phil
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25 minutes ago, pete roper said:
Phil, while clearing out the shop I found that disassembled V11 bevelbox again. Are you still interested?
Yes please Pete, that would be great. I can pay for the shipping or a donation to MSF.
Phil
Rear Wheel Spacer Question
in Technical Topics
Posted
That is correct Mick
Phil