thebronze

Thought i'd take a spin tonight and made it about a mile down the road. Slowing down for a stop sign all of a sudden the lights and motor cut out on me. I coasted into a parking lot and tried switching it on and off but nothing. Peeped in the fuse box and the 15a was blown. I believe its the ignition switch fuse. Walked to the autozone and bought a pack. New 15a got me half way home before it died again. Threw another fuse in turned on the ignition key, lights and gauges came on for about 5 seconds and then the fuse blew again. I went through 5 fuses like this. I never even got to the starter button. Any ideas whats wrong? I had to leave the bike at a neighbors house. I had a fresh charge on the battery but the bike has been sitting all winter in the garage. I have noticed the past few days of starting that the starter motor seems a little slower than normal. It might even have a slight pause before it turns. Guess i'll start with cleaning the solenoid and battery connections. Thanks Toby

Yeah, check Fredericksburg, TX for motels. I was looking at the camping arrangements and its either bike camping or RV.

Dave, thanks for letting us know. I have the exact same problem so I guess I need that same fix. I've been emailing Todd for a couple weeks now to get the ball rolling.

Electrex has a stator that looks like it will fit the v11 series. Has anyone used one of these before? Cost $160 + shipping, a lot cheaper than the factory part. LINK

OH yeah, anyone know the torque setting for the rotor nut?

clean version

4 year oil leak fixed! The top part of the timing cover gasket had dropped down below the casing during installation and wasnt sealing. Replaced it with a new one and should be tight now. While I was in there, I noticed my alternator stator was really dirty. I dont like the looks of black and green coil windings. I cleaned the sh1t out of it but i'm a little worried about this.

Andy, any updates on your hiccup? My bike continues to hiccup after its warmed up. I'd sure like to know if its electrical or fuel related. During last nights ride I pulled up at a stop sign. I went to pull away and the bike coughed and almost died on me. I rev'd it up and drove off but I noticed when it coughed the charge light came on and the bike seemed to die a little as if the bat was dead. I have been thinking this is a fuel problem but she's fresh out of the shop and exhaust gas analyzed. I have a fat ground on the regulator body to the alt cover. Fresh fuse on the charge circuit. The old one was half melted from the heat. Maybe the regulator is going bad.

I'm not positive these are an exact match : http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intake-Air-Temperature-Sensor-Harley-Davidson-Softail-2001-Later-/230703753645?hash=item35b703e9ad&item=230703753645&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Throttle-Position-Sensor-Harley-Davidson-Dyna-2004-2005-/330643970158?hash=item4cfbea986e&item=330643970158&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

I have the same problem. I dont know of any shops that do guzzi ECU work around Dallas but you might have better luck where you are. If your running the stock air box and exhaust you should be able to reset the TPS to 150/530mv and get it running pretty good. Its possible the air temp, engine temp sensor, or TPS are flaky and are causing the problem. If its still too lean you can advance the TPS but that hasnt worked for me. It seems like there are LOTS of v11's with this issue. Might be worth replacing the air temp sensor or TPS sensor with the harley parts. They are about $40 each on ebay. Mine are 10 years old and it might be time to replace them. Check this threadwhere someone swapped in a resistor that fools the ECU into thinking its 65f. Might be a $3 fix.

Unhook the air temp sensor and hook up your leads to it. Then put a heat gun about 3' away from it and you should see the ohm reading drop severely. I did this with mine and watched it go from something 1.3 to .3, or 1300 to 300.(I cant remember the readings but it was working really well). I relocated my air temp sensor under the seat by the ECU where its a lot cooler. The bike runs better with the air temp sensor isolated from engine temps. I think the stock map is lean and when you mix in hot temps the sensors lean it out further and cause problems.

Theres one for sale close to home and Ive always wanted a Lemans I. How close is this mechanically to a lemans?

Anyone going? I may borrow my brothers truck and take my 66 Motobi 250 down there and camp out for the weekend.

Roy, i'll put a jack under the motor just to be safe. Are any special tools required to remove the rotor or stator? I dont have air tools at the moment but I can put the engine in gear and lock the back brake to keep motor from spinning while unscrewing the rotor bolt. Should I replace or address any other issues while in there? Do the stator wires need cleaning or replacing? Thanks, Toby

Has anyone done this before? The manual mentions using a flywheel lock tool to lock the crank and then remove the rotor and stator. I'm trying to do this with the motor in the bike and a minimum of tools. But it looks like the frame bolts up to the motor right by the cover. Do you have to drop the motor to do this? Ive a bit of an oil leak coming out of it and theres some silicone bodge work to seal it up. I'd rather start with a clean gasket.

Thanks man, I just tested the sensor and it works really well. I was getting something like 1.3 but its 98f here and 8:00pm in Texas.

Cool, i'll look into that. I just tested the air temp sensor and it works really well. It was reading something like 1.35. I put the heat gun near it and watched it drop down to .35 in a few seconds. I relocated it under the seat away from the motor. I'll take a test drive later tonight and see what happens. At this point i'm thinking the tuneboy software is the way to go. I had plans on putting an exhaust kit on there so at some point in time i'll need to look into the fuel map. A friend of mine with a triumph told me about something called tune ecu freeware. It works with ducati so it might be worth a shot. I just need to figure out what kind of cable I need.

Hey Drew, do you know what value resistor you guys put in place? I'm going to test my sensor today after I pick the bike up and then I might try that resistor swap.

Mechanic just called with bad news. My tps settings were correct and if anything a bit too rich. He said that the stock computer will only work with the stock air box. The pod filters are creating the problem. I guess the factory map was a bit on the lean side and now the filters are making it a lot worse. He said the only real fix was to find a new fuel map, or ECU designed for pod filters. Or just put the stock air box back on. I believe the PO tossed the stock air box so I'm stuck with the ECU option. Can you guys please let me know where to look now? Is it possible to flash the ecu and load a new image or are my options limited to a new aftermarket ECU?

How did you measure that? I may have the same problem.

Well here's the harley TPS, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Throttle-Position-Sensor-Harley-Davidson-Softail-2001-2006-/330643969503?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4cfbea95df&vxp=mtr#ht_465 0wt_906 (Replaces HD# 27629-01, Part Number: 82723) ebay Item number: 330643969503 What in the hell is harley doing w a marelli TPS? I still havent fixed mine. I think its going in the lake or the shop tomorrow.

Man I just went through this with mine. I was ready to drive the bike into the lake. Before you change anything try the TPS FAQ. Where are your air bleed screws at?

Well I tried your method and damn if it didnt almost work perfectly. 1 full turn out on the bleeds, 250mv baseline tps, idle at 530mv/1100. I can now hold a line at 3-4k rpm and it will idle at stop signs and lights. There's still a little hiccup but lower in the rpm range. Its around 2k instead of 3-4. I may need to synch the TB's at a higher rpm and run in the bleeds just a tad but this is the best its run in a while. I'm usually by myself so i'm having a hard time synching the TB's at 1800. I still have some massive oil leaks coming from the top of the case behind the oil cooler to contend with. Thanks again everyone for all the help.

Replaced the hose, she still leaks. Looks like its coming from the very top of the block behind the oil cooler. There's a couple sensors there that are leaking. Oil pressure and TDC maybe. I'll try to find the gaskets.

Im 30 minutes north of Dallas, TX. If anyone local has the software and could take a look i'd buy them a case of beer. I do have an appointment at the shop next week. I was trying to get things worked out by then and save some money. But my mechanic has O2 analyzers and I would hope he has the VDST. He actually worked at the guzzi dealership here in town and is familiar with the lean map and the "hiccup". I think i'm going to focus on the multiple oil leaks and let him solve the FI issue.