thebronze

Tom, were your problems with the hiccup ONLY when the bike warms up? My bike runs perfect for about 10-15 minutes and then it starts the hiccup and bucking. I'm starting to think this isnt a TPS problem, its more of a sensor that isnt working. The PO deleted the airbox and ziptied the air temp sensor to the outside of the case behind the air filter. I cant see that its any hotter there then where it was inside the air box but it might be worth looking into putting it somewhere else

Tom, my bike does not run right with the 150/520 tps settings. It ran slightly better at 165/520mv baseline with air bleed closed. I'm going to try your recommendations, can you list your settings for me? The micha method doesnt summarize the settings as clearly as the TPS FAQ. 1. Baseline tps (250mv?) 2. Idle speed and idle tps reading(?) 3. Air bleed screw settings(1 turn out?)

Well my problems just got better. I replaced the oil feed hose from the case to the cylinders since it was leaking. There was black engine paint preventing the crush washers from sealing. So I took a look at the engine temperature sensor while the tank was off. I thought I'd clean it up so I unplugged it and then put a socket on it only to find it was loose as hell. I unscrewed it by hand and cleaned it up. Ran it back in and went for a ride and its much much better. It still hiccups a little on low speed stops and transitions but its rideable now. Off hand anyone know how tight/torque the engine temp sensor should be? I snugged it up but I remember Doc saying something about a gap somewhere. Haydnr, I should probably clarify that I changed the base tps calibration to 150,160, and 180(accidently) and the idle readings of 520/530 at around 1100-1200. I might try 165 for a base and see if it helps smooth things out any. Thanks again to everyone, i'm making headway.

IDK, ive had vacuum leaks before and they arent dependant on the engine temp. Seems to me that whatever sensor says "engine is now warm, add or remove fuel to mix" isnt working.

I'm giving up for now. I dont think my problem is the TPS setting. Ive now run the idle tps at 520, 530, 540 with the corresponding values at unhooked throttle rod. TB's are balanced, idle around 1100 and I still have the same problem. Valve lash is set to raceco specs which I think is way too loose. I cleaned up the throttle bodies last night, they were really dirty but it didnt help. The bike runs perfectly until about 10-15 minutes, then it starts to hiccup and sputter. I think its either the oil temp switch or the air temp switch are not working and its leaving the mixture lean. The bike is unrideable between 2-4k rpm once its warmed up. If the TPS was making it lean, it should be lean in those first 15 minutes of ride time. But the problem only shows up when the bike is properly warmed up. Is there a way to test the engine oil temp sensor? Similar to probing the tps sensor? I guess the vdst software would tell me all this.

I started over last night and found that the fully closed tps reading was 185. I guess the set screws werent tight enough and it crept. So I set it to 150mv closed and the idle was 520. Still lean and hiccuping between 3-4k rpm. Took it apart and set it to 160mv fully closed and will try 530 at idle tonight. I was thinking about making a video of the tps reading and posting it on youtube. Think that would be a help to anyone or is there already one out there?

I called my local mechanic who works on Ducatis. Turns out he worked at the local Guzzi dealership in 2002 when my bike came out. He said Guzzi had a problem with the fuel maps back then and most the bikes were lean in the midrange. Said it would buck between 3-4k just like mine. He was fixing them by adjusting the tps setting to enrichen the midrange. I'm guessing my k&n pod filters arent helping a lean mix. I made an appointment to take the bike in but i'll try the 530mv before giving up.

Tom, why 530? The main thread says 520. Would my K&N's be leaning out the air mixture? Does the TPS reading equate to a fuel mixture, where 530 would be a bit richer?

Stock ECU, K&N air filters, the air sensor has been relocated to a small platform near the seat area. Not near the engine. I think I need someone with the vdst software to take a look inside and cut out the guesswork. My local mechanic has 02 analyzer and other goodies but he's expensive and I dont want to give up just yet!

TB's are now synched, seemed like about 17 on the mercury sticks. TPS is at 520 at idle. Bleed screws 1/2 out. Idle around 1400. Ran great until it got hot, then started snick snick hiccups and wanting to die at stop signs. I'll check the valve lash and report back. Seems like the hotter the bike gets the worse it runs. Does the engine temp sensor lean out the mixture when the engine gets hot? Thanks again Docc, you are a huge help.

I figured it out Doc, thank you very much. The right idle screw is really hard to find. I removed the k&n filter and the boot and there it was all gunked up w yellow paint. I guess guzzi put that paint in there to keep us from fiddling around... (edit) Running into a few issues: Cant seem to get 520 without the idle going too high. If I turn in the L idle screw to raise the tps reading to 520 the idle goes up to around 1800rpm. Bleed screws at 1/2 turn out. Full turn out doesnt seem to make a difference. Bike runs worse now, i'm wondering if these crappy vacuum gauges need to be replaced.

Thanks Docc, i'm using the other thread as a guide. I'm a bit confused on reading the tps leads. How do you read the mv between the two leads? I have two wires stuck into the connector and read them one at a time. Am I meant to read them both at the same time? I have alligator clamps on my multimeter leads to get the reading. Also, by fast idle do you mean the choke cam that goes up to the h bar thumb adjuster? I'll have another go in the morning. I did find that the left air screw was all the way in and the right was 1.5 out.

Ok i'm diving into this and have found some strange results. 1. With the throttle rod disco'd, iggy on, motor off, the top sensor wire reads 0, the bottom reads 447. 2. There isnt a right idle screw, but there is a left idle screw that pushes into the throttle rod. According to the FAQ it says the difference should be 150. I'm looking at 440. Taking a break to find another vacuum gauge.

I wish, those are really nice and expensive. Right now i'm just trying to fix the oil leak and get the maintenance done. I will probably have to settle for some cone eng. reverse megaphones.

Man i'm light years away from a TPS synch. I added a second ground wire for the rectifier since the charging fuse was melted and replaced the fuse. It already runs better. I spent 4 hours yesterday trying to grease the drive shaft before breaking the coupler.

I know this has been beat to the death but I just broke a 180 flex coupler grease tip trying to grease the rear nipple. I tried grinding it down where it would fit into the u joint but I guess I went to far. Would I have better luck with the needle fitting for the rear joint? The spline nipple is sheared clean off and I cant seem to get the leftovers out. I'm wondering if it would be easier just to pull the rear wheel and take the drive shaft out. Thanks, Toby

After reading a few other threads about this issue yesterday, I ran home and looked at my rectifier ground wire. I thought the PO had run a new one down to the alt cover. I was wrong, the wire ran up into an electrical tape loom. Looked like whoever did it ran it back to the battery. So I cut a piece of really thick black wire up, soldered on two ends and bolted it on at the alt cover. Cleaned up the ground points and fired up the bike to make sure I didnt screw anything up. Seemed to run fine. The rectifier seems a bit cooler. Waited till 8 and the temps dropped a little(100 to 94) and went for a ride. It seemed to run a little cleaner, smoother, maybe crisper. I hit all the stop signs and lights on purpose, trying to get the bike to hiccup but it didnt. I'm not sure this fixed the issue since by the time I got home it had cooled down to around 88f. The hiccup seems really bad when its in the high 90's. I'll keep an eye on that 30a fuse, i'm thinking about converting it to a maxi fuse and holder per DOCC's suggestions. Thanks all for the tips.

Hey, where are you finding the hose that cheap? The factory part is 106.73$ Is it 2 hoses or 1 Y shaped hose?

I've got a pretty nice little oil leak. It seems to cover both sides of the block and looks like its coming from the base gaskets. We've chased it up to where the oil feed pipe comes out of the block and goes up to each cylinder. Has anyone had this cause a leak before? I've read about the engine paint preventing a good seal at this junction. I guess its possible the hose has split too. So before I plunk down $140 for the parts, has anyone done this before? What needs to come off the bike to get my hands in there? Its really in a tight spot. For sure the tank needs to come off and maybe the air filters and intakes, not sure what else at this stage. Thanks, Toby

Crap, I just replaced the green 30amp fuse because the plastic base was melted. Guess I need to check the charging wires and connections.

You might be right, but everytime I ride i'm hitting stop lights in damn near 100f. Maybe it has something to do with a temp sensor since it only happens when the bike is very warm. I'll give the tune up a try. I think the previous owner synch'd the throttle bodies but I'm not sure if he checked the TPS and this bike is a 2002 so it needs to be verified.

THanks Docc, but I dont see a Tune Up thread pinned in the HowTo forum. Do you have a link to it?

OK i've got a few miles on the bike now and some concerns have surfaced. The bike has a stumble/misfire at low rpms. It only seems to do this when its warmed up. Typical instance would be after about 10 minutes of riding in near 100f heat. Pulling away from a stop sign in first and the bike lurches and pops into a misfire. Its enough to feel the momentum on the bike stop before it catches and then i'm on my way. It has happened at speeds under 50mph too, kind of a stumble, not as bad at those speeds but from a stop its annoying as hell. I cant say ive encountered this on my previous bikes so i'm not sure where to start looking. I found a post from the PO and he mentioned detonation that was helped by the raceco valve specs. I'm using high octane gas and the raceco specs. I would really appreciate any help with this. On the plus side, every time I ride the bike i'm smiling my ass off. It handles really well, very predictable and very comfortable riding position. The stock mufflers are really quiet so I pulled one off and fired the bike up. It made the most heavenly sound from that side, or should I say devilish? Sounded like the thunder clap that came out of my monster w termignonis, but better and deeper. I cant wait to get rid of the stock cans.

Yep, he mentioned the Raceco spec so thats probably what it was.

I went and looked at it. Its really a handsome bike but didnt sound like I thought it would. There seemed to be a lot of clatter. Enought to have me a little worried. My first thought was it had a dry clutch and vented cover. It sounded a lot like my ducati dry clutch with the cover off. The owner told me he was doing something different with the valve clearance and it ran better that way. I guess thats what I was hearing. I was expecting a little more bass but that might be my fault since ive been on ducatis for a couple years and cammy bikes sound different. It did feel very comfortable and seemed like it would make a nice touring bike. I'm going back for a test ride.