footgoose
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Posts posted by footgoose
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11 minutes ago, p6x said:
All the "old" cars that I used to drive back in Europe never gave me any concern. Probably because there was so little sophistication built into them. So crude, that if anything would go wrong, you could fix it yourself. Having a car requiring an ECU re-programming because of a failed battery was a discovery for me.
Agreed. Older cars were basic and better for it. That said, 100k on a 60's car was considered high miles. 200k seems to be the new 100k. New cars are for convenience... till they are not. I think some repair requirements are there to give a boost to the dealers to keep them happy and prosperous. My 2010 Jeep Commander ignition key cost $170. to replace and $80. to program it. Reprogram done using the existing key, if I'd lost both keys?? tech said... "don't lose both keys"
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The Bronco is beautiful Tim. I would love to get one but it would have to fill the "other" car slot as my need for a truck is a priority. Too many $'s for a second vehicle, and that slot is already filled with a gas sipper. I won't bore with my lifelong vehicle anecdotes but with the exception of one Toyota, all my non Fords have been a disaster. Especially (that one time) GM.
When we were in high school there was always a rivalry "General Morbidity" "Fix Or Repair Daily" "Dead Or Dying Garage Exhibit" .... good times!
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23 minutes ago, docc said:
It's tight and fussy.
yep. I used silicone spray and many cuss words to do mine. I did not remove any manifold but did make and use different size hardwood 'pry bars' for leverage. I've ordered some of that P-80 for future. Silicone seems to evaporate but also seems to embed somewhat. Don't know long term effects but I've used it for years on many carb boots and similar applications. "seems" to make rubber fresh.
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12 hours ago, po18guy said:
A cranky old man on the Kawi EX-500 forum described the 1100 Sport he rode as "a truck." Clearly, he never rode another spine frame.
5 hours ago, Pressureangle said:The EX500 is the most soulless motorcycle ever built. Can't argue the handling, though. They were like flies on the racetrack.
So -- intrigued, due to my ever back of mind pursuit of an already in use (cheap) lightweight, reliable twin to use as a base to build up the ideal (and cheap) 2cyl dual sport bike, I did a small bit of research. Mostly looking to find the degree of the crank on the EX. I have a Yammie XS650 with the 360* so I know vibration intimately. I discover with dismay they make a nice version of the 500 for Euro only, called a KLE500. I'd consider owning one of them if I were allowed. I also discover a thread on the EX500 forum where po18guy provides a great explanation of crank and firing order for twins. That was a good find. Also discovered the TRX850 (also Euro only) from the same "guy". There is an interesting range of parallel twins from the 90's and 00's. Will pursue the 'new to me' EX a bit further.
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Frey do not worry. People will be people and do what they have to do. I appreciate any effort in someone trying to do something cool for the community. Several good things have come together for us here from member efforts just like yours. Sometimes they work out, sometimes not. I wouldn't have the patience for your endeavor, so kudos to you for it.
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Nice. You could cross-post this to 'what are you listening to?'
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Thanks once again Bill, good times.
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5 hours ago, Cold Desert Rat said:
When I am too old to ride I will park it in front of the fire and look at it.
my exact sentiment. I look forward to seeing your vision complete
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The unridable Vincent is a beautiful piece of work. "the entire stage was shaking" is a Commando legacy. The XR750's were, and usually are, among my favorites.
Thanks for sharing
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I want those leathers (jacket)
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1 hour ago, p6x said:
A lot of the fasteners on my bike need treatment. I was hoping it was only cosmetic that I could address after completing the Tour of Texas. It seems that I am going to have to remedy that situation sooner than later.
The head snapping off clean on that screw is a wake up call.
Awhile back I placed an order from McMaster for all relevant sized bolts in stainless, mostly socket head and include flat washers and Schnoor in several sizes. Small bags of each. Not a huge amount of money and darned handy to have a little hardware store in stash, having a few metric bikes. I replace everything with stainless where it's low torque or of no consequence.
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Early tank off bike and sealed up, but no lid. I poured 22.4 liter of water as accurately as I could measure, up to the bottom of the nylon collar, not touching it. Given the inevitable swelling, this supports the 5.8 gal capacity.
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5 hours ago, docc said:
Sounding like the "bullet" connectors for the clutch safety switch that are on the forward, left side of the spine frame under the tank. Unless someone has disabled that safety switch, there will be no start (no click, no groan, no nothing) unless the clutch is disengaged (lever held in) to start.
With the bike in neutral, sidestand down,turn the Run Switch on, hold the clutch lever in and thumb the starter button. If no start, repeat with stand up.
If still no start, keep the lever in and button held down while rotating the handlebars lock to lock. If it pulls in the starter, the problem is the nefarious bullet connectors . . .
I had the same weird problem you had.... It was this ^^^^
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A pair of High Mount muffler brackets from an early SportI (97 me thinks) They are the same piece used with the Ti muffler kit on the later Sport/LM just silver instead of black. They were used with the addition of a flat 1/4" thick bracket (not included but a traced drawing provided from my other set, seen on the box top and easily made) $60.US shipped conus.
A new tranny/frame brace for the red frame models IS SOLD. One of Don's production, unused. $45.US shipped conus.
Shift Linkage Arm Is SOLD - Thanks! An extended shift linkage arm unused. One of the first runs from Chuck. I got an extra and won't need it. IIRC they were $50.US plus ship. Tell me if I've misremembered the cost.
Paypal 'friends' please or snail me a check is fine. Thanks
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With all mounting hardware. Support arms with clamp bolts, and threaded headlight can mount bolts. All there. Screen is near new. Superb paint, clear plexi. $250.US shipped ConUS PayPal (friends, if you would please) thanks.
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All 3 of mine dissolved. If leaking higher up it can catch onto a cable/wire/hose and follow it down to show up almost anywhere. I'd recommend buying one now to have on hand whatever you find.
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1 hour ago, Purloined said:
I'm once again inclined to test the normally sweet, polite temperament of the many here with another bout of my stupid questions.
I did sift through countless posts about the issues that induced this, to be clear.
I was stunned at the fuel consumption of my 2000V11 at +/- mid-thirties when I purchased it five years ago. My 1980 Le Mans averaged in the mid to high forties. A recent post regarding average mileage has assuaged my assumption that something was seriously amiss. My VDub TDI, even with fat, sticky tires manages closer to 45. It is possible that a performance disparity exists between the two, though not empirical, I've good reason to believe it true. They're both balls-of-fire in their own way; I don't feel a need to belabor the differences at a drag strip or elsewhere.
I, as others have also noted, experience some detonation on hard acceleration. I don't tend run the motor at higher RPM generally. It does not feel like it is lugging at lower RPM in sixth gear, pulls strongly, and I often don't downshift when hard on the throttle. Perhaps the detonation is a result of the way I'm riding it and I should expect that this is a normal given what I'm asking of it.
But given these characteristics and possible remedies, I'm wondering about the balancing of fuel supply and ignition timing. Someone here suggested a Tecmate Carbmate fuel injection synchronizer. This appears a more sophisticated version of the old mercury tube vacuum balancer I used to use on my old, carbureted two cylinder motorcycles. Is there a port on the throttle bodies that this would attach to and is it a purely mechanical adjustment of the throttle cable assembly? Worth the price of purchase?
And ignition timing? Monitored by the sensor reading the position of the camshaft? Not the dual points version on my old Le Mans of days of yore that looked like caveman flints? No tweaking necessary?
In the old days I would mechanically address the state of these and other adjustments given detonation and 'poor' fuel mileage. I have gone through the bike, i.e. valve lash, fuel/oil/air filters, spark plugs and new leads etc and the machine runs to my mind well and sounds great. I get burbling when I'm off the throttle, the exhaust is (I think OEM) somewhat loud and seems fine. I'm not sure what the ~3000RPM 'cough' people describe is. I'll talk to my therapist about accepting the fact that is guzzles fuel, but the detonation is not cool. I took it on a spirited ride today (roughly 45ºF); the achingly cacophonous detonation a sharp lil'needle in my ear.
I can't stick to a script, a couple of questions in a succinct paragraph. Sorry to the pummeled few who managed to hold on to this linguistic roller coaster in order to get to here. Hardy thanks.
Personally I DO tend to run at a high RPM through all the gears and I nearly always downshift for hard throttle. The thing positively sings at higher rpm's as well as shifts effortlessly. It's made to rev IMO. My bike loves me for it. I ride all my bikes this way. Also I don't give a hoot about mpg OR tire life. (other than to determine a fault) This is my toy, not my investment.
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28 minutes ago, po18guy said:
I have the adjustable blink rate unit for the signals and will use one of the strobe flashers for the 2nd brake light. Unsure which. Would like one that strobes three times then solid. But anything that will stop the horrible Seattle-area "drivers" from killing me is OK with me.
would you link me to that unit please, and did you have to wire in an incandescent as well to make it work?
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Docc Museum. Hope to visit it one day.
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6 hours ago, Speedfrog said:
I have ordered parts from MG Cycles in the past and they are a great vendor, in fact, I still have a running wish list with them.
I also order from AF1, TLM and Stein-Dinse as well as Ebay vendors for used parts and I am glad for ALL of them to exist in supplying the bits needed to keep our steeds running.
As for the purchase of the Becker stand, the savings were a bit too substantial to ignore, not only the base price at MG was almost twice that of S-D, they wouldn’t even disclose their shipping charges before purchase. To me, operating my moto passion on a limited budget, not knowing how much I’m gonna be charged before I order doesn’t make me want to pursue that particular transaction.
I will add Cadre Cycle in Cincinnati to that list. Just because they had new OEM V11 LeMans badges for the side covers IN Stock!
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"fresh fuel" often means-- added to the old fuel left at the bottom of the tank. If it sat awhile before purchase, and under less than desirable conditions, it may also include condensation. Hopefully the tank was drained and rinsed prior, then you can rule out water. Sounds like water to me.
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18 minutes ago, 80CX100 said:
I got one of these stands with my Griso and adapted it with sockets to lift my V11.
The problem I have with my mcgyvered outfit is that , the big nuts on the pork chops have to be slightly loose so the stand can rotate into position.
Do you have to loosen the nuts with your Becker-Technik?
Yes, a big 1/2" drive johnson bar is the perfect lever to use with it.
I do not. the sockets mount on a round boss
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2 hours ago, p6x said:
We don't know ourselves well enough, do we?
? I didn't see you mention using one in your process or a photo. To use this stand I put the front wheel in a "condor" wheel chock, which stabilizes the bike, position the stand and lever it up with said breaker bar. Comes down easily too. I've done it without the chock but I like servicing it in the chock because a shop tipover is not an option. If I need to service the front end I use a floor jack under the motor, in conjunction with the rear stand and lift the wheel out of the chock, using ratchet straps to the rafters to stabilize. I'm used to doing without assistance and it's just the system I've come to use.
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Was a factory center stand ever offered for the V11 Sport?
in Technical Topics
Posted
I just read through the thread and the linked thread... it doesn't get good reviews. I can't recall ever wishing my bike had one tho they can be handy if not too obtrusive.
Welcome to the forum, ...cute dog