Bjorn
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Posts posted by Bjorn
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I am not really a fan of those liquid 'wonder fluids'. Maybe it works without any negative side effects, but they remind my of those tellsell commercials
The seal is mounted in the rear most cover of the gearbox. The manual shows that all the gears and axels are not mounted into this cover. So i need to find a way to get this cover off the bike.
In my head: remove swingarm, pork chops, disconnect the engine/gearbox from the rear mountings, remove the clutch master cylinder, try to lift up the rear end of the frame while placing the engine on (wood) blocks. Hopefully this gives me enough clearance to remove the cover. Time will tell.
O and the local guzzi shop has an improved viton version of the seal. Gonna try that.
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I need to order parts first, and the dyno session has to go first as well. I wont risk taking it apart right now. My best guess is that it leaks about 5-8 drops per 100km. Guess i ll be whiping it some more until the fix.
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My bike tries to keep fighting me for some reason
I hope my quantity of technical malfunction topics can go down a bit in the near future
Here goes for the latest chapter:
Since i got the bike I noticed the underside of the gearbox was always covered in mud and other sh*t. Never paid to much attention to it. During the building of a exhaust i cleaned the engine/gearbox. After a few testrides i noticed the RH side of the gearbox was ''oily'' again.
First i suspected the mating surfaces of the gearbox itself, since the appear to be oiltight by means of liquid gaskets. So i cleaned the box again and powdered it with talcum/baby powder. This revealed the oil was coming from the output-shaft-seal.
Here you see the output seal where the driveshaft connects to the box:
And below the best picture i could take of the oil weeping down from the seal:
I like wrenching a lot, but im not to happy with this. The timing sucks because spring is already here. I plan on taking the bike on long trips this summer I do want to fix it before I start my holidays. However, i cant imagine im the only one with this seal ''failing'' since the MG shop sells a improved version of this seal. Since im going to fix it anyways, I might as well share my ''adventure''
I do hope, there is light on the end of this tunnel
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I like abbreviations, PC stands for Power Commander right? what does PCV A/T mean
Power commander variable ...auto tune..??
However I get the whole idea of this system. It sounds great! Is this plug and play system or do you need to be a electrical wizard?
The funny thing was I believe it was Weber/Marelli FI. Clearly they know how to make it work, why can't they make the one on my Guzzi work that well?
I think its simply a matter of cost/price. Moto Guzzi doesnt develop FI systems themselves, they buy it. I our case from weber/marelli. I bet they strive to meet a certain BOM (bill of material) price of the bike. If the retail value of the bike does not increase (customers are not willing to pay extra for this kind of FI) then they wont use it.
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The buell part sounds nice, I thought such stories about ''self learning FI systems'' were BS. Apparently it is possible. shouldn't this get all the injection specialist out of business?
Even without getting my bike tuned with the new exhaust, it does not feel bad at all. I just want to get it right and dont want to leave loose ends
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... The main thing the narrow band set up brings to the table as used by Guzzi is reduced emissions. It does not really make it run better, smoother, or make more power.
I think this is the only reason there is a lambda sensor on the bike from the factory.
Fabrication wise its not a problem to fit a bung with sensor. However im not familiar with a wide band sensor, let alone tuning it. The way I see it is the engine has mutiple sensors like oil temp, air temp, throttle position, RPM and so on. The sensors help the FI system to ensure a proper setup. The lambda sensor is just one of them, and i dont like the stock sensor.
I will get the bike dynoed with this new exhaust, leaving all the sensors but the lambda do their jobs. I dont see why that wouldnt work.
Comparing the guzzi setup to a carburator bike, which has a fixed setup I dont think its all that bad.
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We got SOUND!!
driveby 1:
driveby 2:
Idle:
Hope it works
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Yeah I can drain the gearbox without removing the pipes
And the centre-stand still fits, just not in the pictures.
@sp, Yes my bike has an lambda sensor. I turned it off anyways since it fucks up the ride. Dont really plan on fitting one on the new set-up. To my surprise the ride ability was not affected negatively by the new setup. However i will still have the bike dynoed by the end of this month.
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I also made a few Videos
however I cant work out the whole youtube setting stuff 
Final fact for today:
Total weight of the old system : 12,27 KG
Total weight of the new system: 4,5 KG
So i can ''gain'' some weight without a loss in performance hehe
The bike you saw, thats my ''other project''
(XS650 scrambler)
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So, for now the fabrication is done. Here is how it looks. Its an older picture, with the temporarily bracket at the end.
made all the mounting points flexible by using a steel bush fitted with a rubber one. By this I how the pipes dont crack:
The RH side cleaned up nicely:
After a test ride i found the noise magnificent w/o the db killer. But is was also too loud. Since i want to use the bike for holidays and dont fancy discussion with the police about the noise level, i wanted to reduce the noise just a bit. The exhaust can came with a standard db killer. Due to the small diameter this really made the exhaust sound weird. We made a new killer with a much larger diameter. In this way the sound/waves do get reflected but do not affect the flow too much.
Here is a piece of the original one, and the new one:
In order to measure the deviation in the sound level I used an dB-meter. European laws state the measurement should be carried out 50 cm from the rear side of the exhaust, under an angle of 45 dgr. Every motorcycle has a specific sound level at a certain rpm. For my guzzi this is 90dB @ 4100 rpm.I did a couple of measurements:- Idle w/o db killer: 84,9 dB
- Idle with dB killer: 82,6 dB
- 4100 rpm w/o dB killer: 99,6 dB
- 4100 rpm with dB killer: 97 dB
To the ear is sounds much quieter and not ridiculous. In motion it sounds perfect, its there riding normally and really roars when you open the gas
. Its not at the required level, but ill take my changes.
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No i have not. Im guessing expensive....
@ jim, is your tip of drilling and repairing For abs or fiberglass panels? Because the terms composite and plastic are both used.
Composite= fiber reinforced resin?
Plastic= abs, polyester?
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I dont have the fairing with me (at my parents house) but usually every injectionmoulded parts has a production clock. Here the material and date is specified. Anyone in the occasion to check this? Because from what i heard you need different methods for repairing ABS.
Drilling the crack also came to mind. Please note that the crack is not even all the way through the material (yet). I want to fix it, dont care if it requires painting or anything.
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I thinks its indeed a ''question and demand'' story. If you look at universal cans for example some Leovince models, they are a lot less expensive because more are sold. Then there is the connection-pipe, this is usually specific for each model. In other words more Development and testing cost for each model. Combine this with small batch number and the prices go up.
And just like in any other market, you have differance in build quality with all the process that are linked to it. Finally paying for a brand name also seems to be normal...
But I totally agree that prices seem high compared to the product you get as a customer.
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Hi guys,
I was trying to solve some resonating issues of my front fairing, when i discovered a minor crack. To the eye its not even all the way through (yet....). Can only be seen from the exterior side. see the pictures below.
So before it cracks completely, do any of you have any experience/tips to repair it?
maybe glue a strip of aluminum or similar plastic (abs or polyester?) to the backside?
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Its all TIG welded, using backing gas to prevent the material from burning on the inside.
I just booked a dyno session for the end of april, cant wait
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Yes its welded, however in theory you can remove the muffler. Its hold to the pipe by means of springs. I do know that its very tight and hard to remove.
Removing the exhaust is quite easy though, its a lot lighter than the original set-up.
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The whole exhaust is a ''joint venture'' between my little brother and me. He did most of the welding, as he is a welder. This weekend we finished most of the pipes. Only need to fine tune things like the mounting points next weekend, cant wait to try them
Ill post more pictures of the centrestand and fixations next time.
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So the final part between the collector and muffler is taking it final shape. Only need to add a support to the collector to level it out and a clamping band.
Hope to build the rest this weekend
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I bought a stock collector, but didnt like it. The fitting was crap so i made my own. I calculated the outline of both pipes, making the cut so the 2 smaller pipes merge into the diameter of the larger 1
Because the new opening is not completely round, squash the large pipe in the bench to make it oval.
Weld her up with some backing gas and your done
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Went shopping today for a muffler and some exhaust parts:
found a nice second hand laser titanium duo tech muffler. To be mounted on the LH side, with (removable) dB-killer and everything. Right now im trying to find out what angle i want for the muffler. I find the stock cans a bit to low/horizontal. This is how i got it mocked up right now.
Pictures arent great, but you get the idea
Its going to be tricky to fabricate the collector, because i want to keep the middle stand.
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Yes asymetrical as in the looks
I usually try to avoid welding on the bike if i can. If i need to,i always remove the batt. And vital electrical components like the ecu.
Nice to see a lot of people involved here
thanks for all the tips and tricks so far. -
Love the asymmetrical headers! got lots of pictures of cool guzzi exhaust on my laptop. I thought about it, but considering the time of year and the time that would take ill stick to the original headers. Since you need to do something about the oilcooler location.
As far as the 2-1, Im just going to try and see where i end up. Nothing is certain beforehand (sound, performance etc.) I wont cut up any of the original exhaust parts, so can always go back.
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Its more the last part. I like the looks, and its unique for a V11. No the tuning part is not my favorite but I planned to get it dynoed anyway. There are two candidates who seem to know what they are doing
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Good explanation! If i understand it correctly the ''under pressure'' of the negative wave would ''suck'' the new exhaust gases out of the cylinder right after the ex. valve opening. In turn creating a better flow of gases?
How does the negative wave travel backwards?
Practical part:
I dont know what a merge collector is exactly, but the disadvantage of the stock collectors is they have a straight inlet (and cost money
) like this example:
Because space is tight, im building it more in a ''Y'' shape. This helps with the headers coming from left and right. A bit more like this:
Anyway i found 2 or 3 suitable mufflers to use, just need to choose which one that suits best. Im free on friday, to go shopping for stainless steel mandrel bends. Cant wait to start
Fairing: beginning crack
in Technical Topics
Posted
I brought the fairing to a local car repair and paint shop. They are going to weld the crack, for €40 im not going to mess around with plastic. Curious how it turns out.