not-fishing

No, valves are .10 & .15 mm. I also went down the rabbit hole by cutting away the brass over the cylinder head temp sending unit then inserted it ---- no change. So now I've taken it to the local Duc shop for a remap. He's got the Dyno, O2 sensors, ECU experience, worked some on Guzzi's and can tackle the tune of this Wild Goose. Update in a week or so.

This is the same way my '04 is plumbed. Don't ask me which way the gas is being pumped. I haven't wanted to "test" it. Voycie -- another rabbit hole.....Has the fuel filter ever been checked or replaced? A simple check would be to get a couple of liter jars (or buckets) unplug right side and stick it in one jar, add a short length of hose to the red pipe and stick it in the other jar --- then turn on the key for 5-10 seconds and watch the prime. You should be able to see if there's enough flow and which line [red or grey(?)] is the supply line. Testing the outflow would save you the trouble of removing the pump filter assembly which is not-fun. Also I feel your pain. I just finished changing the footpegs, brake & shifters back to stock from Motobits and the bike won't start or shift right so it's back on the lift table and more adventures in shade-tree mechanics for me.

Yeah well Occam's razor tells me the Guzzi Engineers guessed wrong.

voycie, Wow, great looking bike, is that Ohlins on the rear shock? I've learned not to trust the fuel light which kind-of works and reset my trip meter for fueling. Then there's the gallon of premium I keep at home - just in case. it's a boy scout thing.

Has anyone tried the "less is more" approach ? (otherwise known as lazy mans approach) My lemans has the plastic holder so I was thinking of just cutting off the unthreaded end of the sensor and threading it back into the plastic holder. No Derlin holder that I have to fab. I realize I'll be "splitting the baby" when it comes to heat mass but it solve having to construct the mounting assembly. I should look through my spares as I swear I've already replaced that sensor once - and kept the old one. Sure enough I had one and have already cut the "nose" off just below the threads. As expected it was hollow packed with grease. Now to finish up changing the foot controls from Motobits back to stock and try a test ride on a hot day. Mark

Yeah, I'm just guessing like I've been doing for the last two years. I don't know how high the pressure is but with the little kinks and bends I noticed in the crossover hose it's worth a shot for me try to take them out. Still I've listened to Docc and purchased another temperature sensor ($40 delivered). I'll do the mod. I'm basically doing the final push before I take the Lemans to the Dyno for remapping. which I'll still do anyway

Thanks Docc, you might have given me a partial solution to my V11's "cough" at low revs. My previous fix didn't work. I've done the basic tune. My latest theory is vapor-lock in the lines at low flow. I purchased some DEI Fire Wrap for the fuel line from Summit racing to add another layer of insulation - just in case. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-010477/ I couldn't figure out which line was the supply and which was the return so I wrapped both. One thing I noticed was the crossover was very tight underneath the airbox. I wonder if the line became pinched there after I removed & cleaned the 1/2 cup of oil out of the airbox. So this weekend I've got new chores for the V11. Pull the tank and airbox check & reroute the fuel line, if there's room put some fire wrap between tranny and fuel line at the crossover. I know other's don't have this "cough" because the bike is actually unrideable when hot and 100+ temps with nasty traffic is common in California. I apologize to all for thread-jacking. Mark

I so get that. But why not all five? (Yeah, I asked "why" anyway . . . . ) WHAT there's FIVE Relays?????? Rats! I might as well add three more for the Griso..

Thanks, I ordered 3. Don't ask me why it's a Boy Scout thing.....

I have the workshop stand which works for simple maintenance http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73&products_id=1567 but I find I'm using my Kendon Stand-up lifting table much more. I bought it used. Right now I want to change the footpegs & shifters back to stock from the Motobits shifter it has on it and I have to pull the pork-chops to get at the footped nut. You can't do this with a Stucchi or any other lift that uses the pork-chops as the lifting point.

I'm assuming the starter is turning the motor. Fuses come first. My '07 Griso had a short that would kill the engine then after I replaced the fuse run for a week or so until it happened again. I finally traced the short to the fuel pump. which I pulled, removed tested (pump was good) then reassembled now I haven't seen the short reappear in nearly a year. On my '04 Lemans I think I'm chasing an intermittent spark loss when hot so I've added a ground to one of the coils I'm replacing the ignition wires and one coil. If the coil partially or wholly cures it I'll replace the other. In your case I'd next think about the cam sensor.......

Has anyone replaced the now 25 year old design V11 coils with Dyna 5 ohms? My son and I did it to a V50-III with good results so I was thinking...... The Dyna's would be $100 cheaper although I would have to fab a mount.

After a long ride I found the Cough was back with a Vengeance. Now it's become difficult to ride because the consistent cough. I've ordered new spark plug wires. I've ordered a new coil. The bike has a full Matris exhaust with crossover. After this it's being trailered to a shop that I have some trust in but is 10 hours of driving.....

Tecmate Carbmate. I haven't had much luck with the manometer (water tube) systems.

Didn't come with one - another item to remedy. You know I might just buy a new nylock nut along with some nylon washers and tighten the setup again. One thing I noticed was the factory shift arm was sloppy on the shaft. Maybe after 14 years that needs to be replaced........ My other thought was to use my modeling experience along with fly tying to place a 45 degree support rod on the mechanism and thread wrap/super glue it to the mechanism to remove slop.

I synch'd the throttle bodies as part of the Decent Tune up with the electronic synch. The Lemans runs great other than the dam cough.

I've got a set of Motobits rearsets on my Lemans and find the shifting sloppy. I've gone through the Motobits, cleaned, lubed and tightened the assembly. The problem seems to be the long bolt and sleeve that attaches the Motobits shifter rod to the shift lever on the V11. You have to install the "thru-bolt" slightly loose so not to bind the shift arm but in doing so add a fair amount of play at the motobits rod. Anybody have a fix? I keep thinking of some way to triangulate the long-bolt sleeve assembly to the shift rod would take out the play making the shifts more positive. Right now the shifts remind of my '72 Ghia -----the gear is there you just have to find it shifting--- Mark

A couple of years ago I traveled 4,000 miles to pickup a Rosso Corsa at a pretty good price. and I got to see some of the US I hadn't seen. After a new battery I started her up, went for a run and decided on "upgrades" Rear Stucchi rack to lash things on. Fur seat cover to raise my seat and ease the knee strain. LED instrument lights so that I could see them in the day. New shifter springs A tune to get rid of a persistent "Cough" miss around 3,000 rpm --- with no luck Well it's been nearly two years of trail and error and the list of fixes I've tried are: 1. Removed and had professionally cleaned the injectors 2. New airbox temp sensor 3. Cleaned the 1/2 cup of engine oil out of the airbox. 4. New Plugs 5. New TPS sensor 6. New timing chain tensioner. 7. New timing chain 8. Added a ground wire to the right coil 9. A "Decent tune up" done carefully with a good digital ohmmeter The Lemans still has the "cough" but it's much less frequent and at 2,000 rpm on deceleration. I can live with it and try something else the next tune up. I still have to spend some seat time on the Lemans to see how long my knees can take the ride. On the Griso I've gone for 14 hours with short stops. Now I have some "sport touring" to do. I'll start with one-day tours like Folsom, Ca to Markleeville via Ebbetts pass on Hwy 4 then back to Folsom via Hwy 88 - Mormon Immigrant trail. Only 242 miles but 5 /1/2 hrs of riding. I've been down Ebbetts before on my Griso with a McLaren on my tail. Decades ago I went up Ebbetts pass on a bicycle.

Put it gear, strapped the spoke of the rear wheel, strapped the tire down to the lift and strapped down the rear brake. Once I torched the nut enough so it smoked it really didn't take that much force from my 36" lever. It's really a "ghetto" way to do it though.

OK, ok I took all of the gears off and learned many things. 1. You have to propane the crank bolt and cam bolt until they're - Smok'n-. Then it's an easy removal he says with his 36" pipe wrench on a 32 mm 3/4" deep impact socket because the socket was to short otherwise. 2. You will "misplace" the oil pump woodruff key. I ordered spares and then remembered some pictures from Pete Roper (big block strip) showing the key on the ledge of the case. After looking closely with a strong flashlight (CSI style) I found the "misplaced" key exactly where Pete indicated it would be. http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzitech.dk/pdf/03_pete-roper-bigblock-guzzi-engine-strip.pdf 3. You put the cam gear on first find locating dowel and wrap the chain. You put the crank gear on next and fiddle with it to get the timing marks to align with the cam gear. Double checking the flywheel mark. 4. Next you set the oil pump gear in the chain loosely on the shaft. With a stubby slot screwdriver you carefully turn the oil pump shaft until the pump gear slips over "misplaced" woodruff key. Then it's slide the assembly home. Sparingly red lock-tite the nuts, torque then Grappa. I'm amazed at the difference in tension between the old "foot" tensioner I replaced and the new tensioner from MG cycle.

From the old thread of "How to" https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=11660&page=4 Being a lazy sort and waiting for parts I was wondering why I can't just pull the oil pump gear, change out the tensioner, fish the chain around the other two gears and reinstall the oil pump gear? Fitting all three gears up with the chain an wiggling them on at the same time looks like a lot of effort. When I get frustrated with assembly I have to walk away, take a few doses of grappa, take a nap and improve my Zen before I continue the repair. I have to keep it simple or take many naps.... Mark

I run my lemans without the pannier supports on pannier bags. Just get the right bags. They're a tiny bit more work on install and take-off but they don't add weight to the bike for everyday. One thing is you do have to know how to tie things down and figure out your lashing system. Mine is the stern strap below the rear body work and above the license plate with the side tie downs taking one loop about the passenger peg support. Basically three straps with plastic clench buckles. I picked up the 50 liter bags at their suggestion and am very happy with them. The nice thing is they also fit my Griso fine. this is one of their stock photos http://www.rka-luggage.com/A05%20Saddlebags/saddle.html

Where should I send the money for at least one shifter plate mod? At $50 each I'd buy a pair you never know when you might need another........ Thanks Mark

No, I pulled the injectors and had them tested, cleaned and retested. It did make a difference. Still taking the injectors off wasn't pretty as I had to dremel one of the flat head allens out. just a couple of hours of careful drilling I replaced the flat heads with allens that use a much bigger key.

We have to get a new run of 10 to make it worth it for Chuck. So now we are two. Mark