Paradiso
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Posts posted by Paradiso
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Scud's garage...
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There's a cheap Chinese version of the V11 headlight on Ebay for about £28, but it doesn't seem to have a pilot bulb. Search 'V11 headlight'.
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The original clutch/flywheel does feel better. My first choice was the Ram unit, but I just couldn't get hold of one.
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Scud, you're like Santa and the fairy godmother rolled into one. I'd jump at Scud's offer. I waited ages to get hold of a second hand flywheel and pressure plate.
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Mine had done 13500 miles. My friction plate was worn. The alloy flywheel was still intact, but fine cracks could be seen around the centre where the bolts go through.
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Alloy flywheel could be breaking/cracked. I'd avoid riding it as if it comes apart it could do lots of damage to the bell housing and the gearbox. There are some nasty pictures on the web. Have a read of some clutch threads. I started one on a Tenni clutch when I swapped mine. There is a list of parts needed and some discussion of the Ram clutch too.
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If the intention is to swap the single plate for a twin plate, I'm afraid the prices are correct. You need to buy the steel flywheel and pressure plate, which are pricey. There are lots of clutch threads if you search for Tenni/Scura/rosso mandello. I bought a second hand twin plate flywheel and pressure plate and new plates and swopped it myself. Not easy to find second hand parts. Alternative is a 'Ram' after market clutch, if you can get one. Do you know for sure if yours has the original clutch and alloy flywheel fitted? It could have been changed in the past.
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The heads and barrels look great. The 'c' clips look the same as on BMW twins-long nose pliers or a engineer's pick would probably do the job. I think it is recommended that these clips are replaced with new as they are sprung and could fatigue and snap. If you are careful, you'll see if they bend or deform when you remove them.
I'd use blue Loctite. You never know if you might need to remove the stud again.
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I got a couple of these. They are scooter engine mounts, but they're the correct size.
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The Foundry Guzzi was on UK Ebay a few months ago. Price was around £11 000 IIRC.
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Oem dual plate is the clutch fitted to v11s that don't have the alloy flywheel. There are 2 friction plates. If you switch to this clutch you need the flywheel and pressure plate too, both of which are expensive new. I switched to this option after sourcing some second hand parts.
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Like Chuck says, the zinc chromate paint is very close to the paint on my Tenni.
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Final drive looks great. The whole lot looks pristine. If mine was that clean I don't think I'd risk riding it.
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Can I ask what type of ' coating ' you are talking about with regard to the pistons and other parts? What is it for?I spent the morning yesterday chasing all the threads on the case, upper sump and lower sump. Boring, but I always do this on a rebuild. Amazing how dirty threads get even if they have always had fasteners in them. It also forces you to look closely at all the nooks and crannies of an engine more closely than you might otherwise. I have to say that the Guzzi casting are very nice, especially compared to Big 3 block castings. Very little flash.
I also packed up the pistons and rod bearings and sent them to Swain Tech for coatings. When the heads get back from Mike Rich they will get a similar treatment.
Then I spent the afternoon with the shifter implementing most of Phil's suggestions. I will write in more detail about that in the shifter improvement thread.
I change out the transmission input spline for the one that came with the RAM clutch.
Cheers
Simon
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Hi Chuck, I'll have an extender if you are making some more.
Cheers
Simon
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The 5 speed RAM kit has a different clutch pushrod 'button'. The one on the 5 speed RAM clutch kit is a smaller diameter. The one on the original single plate may swap over. This was discussed elsewhere on the forum.
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I got a second hand flywheel and pressure plate from Reboot Guzzi Spares. Might be worth a try. They are available new, but the price is around £600.
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Tenni. 14 000 miles. Replaced because of wear (with a twin plate set up). Original alloy flywheel had hairline cracks around the centre.
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I think you're right about the common parts between the 5 speed RAM and the 6 speed RAM Scud.
However, the clutch button on the 5 speed is of a smaller diameter. The one from the original single plater on my Tenni was stamped RAM and may be interchangeable: you'd have to take the 'ready assembled' RAM unit apart.
As far as pushrod length goes, my original from the single plater worked with the twin plater.
I put some photos of the different clutch hubs on a thread. I think the original single plate hub was the same size externally as the one I looked at from a RAM 5 speed, but the 5 speed RAM hub has a different splined centre. The clutch hub socket is available in a few places. I got mine from Gutsibits.
Simon
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I was surprised at the negative effect on running of putting a slightly larger 'o' ring on the timing sensor. There are shims to get the distance correct. Maybe someone had fiddled with these.
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These photos from someone else helped me.
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Another option is to squeeze the bottom of each spring so that it grips onto the inner part of the spring seat.
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Clutch pushrod 01 08 57 30
The pushrod from the original single plate clutch (Tenni and Scura) is 203mm long and 8mm in diameter. On the gearbox side the pushrod has a shoulder 5mm from the end and the diameter at the gearbox end is 6mm. For me this works with the twin plate clutch and steel flywheel.
I originally ordered a RAM clutch. I was wrongly supplied with a RAM clutch/flywheel for a 5 speed. I did fit it to the engine and was ready to refit the gearbox when I checked the clutch button and it was a smaller diameter (maybe 6mm).
Did you check the size/fit of the pushrod/clutch button when fitting the RAM clutch?
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I swapped the original single plate for a dual plate and the pushrod is the same length. Can't remember the length, but I noted it down in an earlier thread.
Many thanks for the offer Scud. If there is a difference in rod length between the single plate and dual plate clutches this might explain things (though I think it's the other way round - too long a rod would explain my symptoms). Trouble is though, it's a big-ish job to get the push-rod out to measure it, and at the moment I'd rather be riding my bike than pulling it to pieces. So I think I'll save that job till next winter, and carry on with my bodge-fix for now. Cheers, PhilI talked to the guys at MG Cycle, who said that the current RAM clutches are very durable. The only problem is making one appear in your shop - I've had one on backorder for close to a year now. You might call those guys and explain your issue, they may be able to advise you and supply a part if needed. I think there is a difference in rod length between single and dual plate clutches. If you have a too-short rod, it may be that the clutch slave has to use up most of its range of motion just to engage initially.
I don't think that a twin-plate is a big step backwards. I have one of each. If I ride the LeMans (twin plate) for a while, the first time I get on the Scura (single plate) I find the clutch engages very quickly. While I like the idea of keeping a single plate clutch in my Scura, I'm probably going to end up putting a used twin-plate in there. I prefer the twin-plate, but no so much that I'd be willing to do a lot more maintenance on it - worse yet, letting it sit for a year waiting for a part.
FWIW - I have a complete, used twin-plate clutch on the shelf awaiting installation (assuming the new RAM doesn't show up before I'm ready). I can take a measurement or photo of any part for you. Also - I'm pretty sure there are some detailed threads on here with photos of all twin and single-plate parts laid out side-by-side.
The diaphragm spring in the original (single plate) clutch is stamped Ram. I know the diameter of the pushrod is narrower on the Ram replacement for a 5 speed. I was supplied a 5 speed Ram in error and I think it would have worked if I'd taken it apart and swapped the diaphragm spring for the one from the original single plate clutch. Is it possible that the pushrod isn't seating as it should?
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What are the best upgrades for Lemans 850 MK3 1983?
in Older models
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I had a MK 3 for a while. It was a great bike. I thought it was pretty quick at the time too. You can get lighter springs for the carbs if the throttle is a little heavy. I did rewire it because the original harness had degraded badly, though that may have been due to the UK weather. It's a good looking bike as it is. I'd keep it original too. Interest in MK 3s seems to be rising in the UK. Prices are rising too.
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