pete roper

Michael has a very pretty Tenni in at the moment. I think it actually belongs to a member here, not sure though. Anyway it came to have a RAM clutch installed among other things. I can’t remember how far it’s travelled, certainly not very far but have a squizz at the flywheel! The first pic is just to show off Michael’s spiffy new crane! Makes working on things like this a doddle! This is the flywheel! As you can see it’s a real doozy of a crack! Tick-Tock Motherf*cker! Oh, and Michael used the board for advice on how to yank the engine out of the front. I’ve never done it that way so couldn’t advise so thanks for that V11 people

Sorry, I missed this. Probably the reason they tend to weave and wobble at higher speeds is because their suspension is far from crash hot and those enormous bags at the back coupled with a big screen if fitted will make it very ‘Wandery’. I have to say I’ve never been enamoured with the 1100 Calis. To be honest I’ve never been keen on any of the ‘Tall Head’ Tonti’s. They abandoned what made Tonti’s original design so brilliant, it’s compact nature.

That is not a ‘Temp Gun’ it is obviously some sort of weak American version of the cover of a ‘Mutton Gun’. It is very much smaller than its Australian counterpart. It also bares no resemblance to a Penis Gourd. If you think it does there are a number of tribes in the highlands of Papua New Guinea and the depths of the Amazon rain forest who would like to ‘Have a Chat’! With the PNG crew that might also involve a meal. One at which you might be the main course!

I wouldn’t trust my life to it.

They’re the feed for your Moto Guzzi branded heated penis gourd. Sadly this was not a popular accessory and was only available for a period of a few short weeks in the early 2000’s. Why they were unpopular at the time remains a mystery and now, two decades on, are one of the most prized and sought after accessories, especially among the ‘Cold of Todger’, most noticeably with owners in the higher latitudes. Unfortunately in recent years there have been a variety of cheap impersonations of the original product but being from shadowy, nameless suppliers from a variety of nations not prized for the quality of their low-volume knock-off products. This has led to unfounded claims of both ‘Chaffing’ and, even more worrying, ‘Scalding’ when wearing these doppelgänger products! At the end of the day, unless you are able to secure an original, factory, item they are best avoided. As mentioned, they rarely come up for sale but if you post a request for help finding one I would suggest a site like Canadian or Scandinavian Grindr. Do be prepared to have to sieve through the responses carefully for genuine replies.

It worked for me as well. The link above works for me as well. If considering a second hand box make sure there is a clear pic of the pinion teeth. That tells the story. Or just go to the TLM site and punch in ‘Used Cardan’

I think I suggested Guzzi Classics in Long Beach before, try him. He’s not good on emails but will respond to a phone call. Then there’s Harper’s. They too respond better to a call. Here are a few. Bevelboxes.

Throw in seals, bearings, gaskets and shims and you’ll be looking at close to a grand. Far easier to just find a decent second hand bevelbox.

I thought the Quota used the 8/33? No matter. I’d certainly opt for the lower gear option. With regard to buying *New* the factory hasn’t made 7/33 gear sets for donkey’s years. I’d be surprised if even 8/33 sets were available ex-factory now. Most of the stuff available nowadays relating to gearboxes, final drives, clutches etc. is aftermarket. Some of it is fine, although how long this will remain the case remains to be seen. Most gear-like stuff though is generally contracted by Stucchi I believe. It may be sold through other vendors but I think they are the player in the older parts game and, once again in my experience, their quality can be less than stellar! This isn’t always the case so I suppose it depends on who bids for the work and whether they are credible. Fact remains I’ve built some pretty shoddy gears into boxes for people and have always told them this exactly. Sadly, if you go the rebuild route, these potentially wonky gears are your only option. The videos you linked show how the pinion carrier is a sliding fit in the box. If you’re afraid you might damage the casing by biffing the carrier flange and it’s tight? Just stick a lord of heat into it with a blowtorch! You aren’t going to be re-using anything that’s inside the box in terms of bearings or gears.

Looking in the shed for something else entirely I found all my bevelbox shims today! I thought I’d given them away. If you understand how to set up bevel gears it isn’t terribly difficult, although it can be time consuming. It isn’t something most novices would undertake, at least without close supervision by someone experienced because the results of getting it wrong tend to be very expensive.

You’re making this way more complicated than it has to be. Really, your gears will be way beyond buggered. A second hand box is a far easier and cheaper proposition. I’d also be very surprised if you could poke at the pinion head from behind through the level port. There’s just too much stuff in the way. The axle of the crownwheel carrier for starters.

Yes, I realise that. I just have a particular interest in the CARC series bikes. No matter. Have you performed a full tune up including balancing the throttlebodies and setting the TPS?

Nobody’s going to be upset by questions being asked. Nobody sensible anyway. One just has to be careful when assessing both given information and it’s source. What Griso have you got and have you fixed all the little problems the factory built in?

Yes. The loose terminal clamp should well cause the battery discharge but if you’ve escaped without reg/rec damage you are very lucky.

Check the connectors from the reg-rec. Good chance you’ll find them melted.

If you’re unsure or unwilling to tackle it Michael who took my biz over is just up the road. We might even have the seal in stock. It’ll need to be Viton.

Removing the plate will drop the ring gear and it’s carrier out but it can be quite difficult because of the sealant used on the shim and gasket. Persevere with the pinion carrier. Turn it ro the wheel side is uppermost and then use an old screwdriver to get in behind the pinion carrier flange. A couple of lust blows with a hammer will move it a couple of mm and it can then be levered out using two flat bladed drivers. If you persist in pulling the flange you will likely need an expanding puller to fit under the splines in the crownwheel carrier and can either push on the spacer or pull on it using a bridge.

Yer battery’s gone flat because your regulator rectifier has shat itself.

The reason Guzzitech’s boss rants about The Guzzidiag suite of tools is because using them cuts into his profiteering from selling unnecessary, obsolete shit that he doesn’t even understand and often doesn’t work. Using Guzzidiag and the ‘Reader’ and ‘Writer’ programs CANNOT brick or otherwise damage your ECU. Using a correctly constructed aftermarket map allows you to achieve far more, far better, than using a shitty add-on like a Power Commander or the like. Quite simply it is my belief that your problems could likely be fixed by simply tuning your bike correctly. Start at the beginning with valve lash then go through with throttlebody balance and TPS adjust and it’ll probably be golden. Don’t be tempted by stupid crap like aftermarket air filters and ‘Sensor foolers’. Just tune it correctly first. If it’s still giving issues they will be a lot easier to identify rather than just going for the ‘Scattergun’ approach to diagnosis.

I seem to remember that Valtech actually produced a ‘Blade’ type tensioner that fits the *Newer* crankcases? I’ve not laid eyes on one but despite my memory being less than perfect nowadays I’m pretty sure I’ve seen pictures of one?

Looking more carefully at the pics posted I can see the problem. It looks as if by the time your crankcase was made they had started using the newer pressure die cast moulds for the crankcases. I thought the change over happened at the time of the CARC bikes but obviously it predated that. Now I’m not sure, I’ll have to check, but that annoying boss on the case might be a there for the oilway drilling for the under piston sprays on the 8V motor, (As I’ve mentioned before, a lot of modifications are put in train many, many years before model launches.). I have an 8V case on the bench in the old workshop, I should pick it up anyway. I’ll have a squizz over the next few days. The ‘Honeycomb’ structure of the casting also suggests the casting method of the case changed at this time.

I have to say I’ve installed a ton of those Valtech ‘Blade’ type tensioners over the years and have never had a problem with them. I have heard of the broken spring problem but never a broken blade. I tend to think it might be an installation issue rather than a design problem. Yes, they do exert a higher pressure on the chain, at least initially and this can be heard as they whine quite loudly when new but they soon settle down as the blade ‘Relaxes’. The was I installed them was to take the blade off the pin/base and bolt that on and then install the chain and sprockets before slipping the blade on half way with the pin just engaging the spring and then swing the blade round and pop it into the timing chest before pushing the pin end all the way on to the pin and reinstalling the nut and washer. Make sure the spring fits inside the bolt boss for the timing cover that it passes by. If you miss this and it’s over the boss the timing chest will leak when you tighten it down. It’s easily done.

Also seeking 2Kg bag of rocking horse excrement and 12 inch length of Unicorn horn. If all three can be wrapped, along with a piece of the True Cross in the genuine Shroud of Turin so much the better……..

On a healthy bevelbox the temperature of the unit is going to vary greatly depending on both ambient temperature and how hard/fast the machine has been ridden. One with issues will generally run a lot hotter. As far as ‘Slop’ or backlash is concerned any backlash you can feel by turning the wheel fore and aft with the bike in gear and the engine off will be between the dogs in the gearbox and not the bevelbox where backlash is measured in thou.

Have you performed a full tune up on it?