Italy: Spring 2007

[Orson]

I flew into Milan and grabbed a cab for the Estacione Centrale to catch a train to Parma. Cue picture of Milan's cavernous train station...

 

 

Arriving in Parma after about 2 hours, I grab another quick cab ride to Moto Guareschi. Home base for my Gootsi where they lovingly fondle it and whisper sweet nuthins into its ears to get it to purr contentedly.

 

 

After paying my bill and renewing my insurance, I'm ready to hit the road. I didn't really have a route planned other than to try to loop south through Tuscany. I hadn't made it 5 kilometers before I realized I forgot to put my ear plugs in. While stopped, a guy comes running up to me gushing about the Guzzi and wanting to take a picture with his cell phone. The fame of Guzzi ownership is something you never get used to. If only it had this effect on young women!

 

Making my way westward out of Parma, I soon came upon the beautiful Torrechiara Castle built over 500 years ago in the Parma Valley.

 

 

 

About 30 minutes later I came upon the ruins of another castle whose name escapes me.

 

 

Continuing westward in the Province of Parma...a medeivel farming village in the foothills of the Apuan Alps...

 

 

I continue climbing up over the Apuan Alps and into Tuscany. I'm surprised to see there's still quite a bit of snow on the ground. Unfortunately, the day is overcast so I didn't think to take any pictures. The sky turns menacingly dark in spots and for a few moments I worry that I'm about to get drenched but alas, my fears are unfounded and I'm spared.

 

While studying the map, I notice the Cinque Terre region on the Ligurian coast. Hmmmm. In an instant, a change in plans. Tuscany would have to wait a day. I'm this close to the Ligurian coast, why not? This is one of the reasons I don't book hotels in advance...I never know where I'll end up! I grabbed a hotel room in the seaside resort of Portvenere and enjoyed a nice seafood meal.

 

The Cinque Terre region is named after five villages precariously perched on the rocky shores of eastern Liguria. Kinda has a California Highway 1 vibe going...

 

 

The village of Riomaggiore.

 

 

more coastline...

 

 

I think this is looking down on the village of Manarola. They have toll booths set up before you get into each town. I can't say that I blame them or otherwise they'd be swamped by tourist traffic in the summertime.

 

 

I think this is a picture of the village of Vernazza with the village of Corniglia in the distance.

 

 

It was midday by the time I reached the last village of Monterosso so, I turned around and headed back south towards Tuscany and the Apuan Alps. The Apuan Alps are impressive indeed. While they don't reach the same heigths as their more famous namesake, they seem impressive enough just the same and the roads are no less a challenge. The northern part of Tuscany is more rugged and mountainous than the south.

 

 

An abandoned farmhouse in northern Tuscany

 

 

Where's that confounded bridge? The last time I was in Tuscany, I spent a few hours trying to find this bridge. It was right here the whole time! The Ponte di Maddalena near the town of Lucca. It was built over 700 years ago. It was one of the few bridges not blown up by the Germans during World War II because they didn't think the Allies could get Sherman tanks across it.

 

 

 

I stopped for the night in the beautiful town of Bagni di Lucca. Before I left Parma, Vito Guareschi had invited me to a track day at Mugello. Not being no fool, I quickly took him up on his offer. It might be the closest I ever get to a GP!

 

Leaving Bagni di Lucca for Mugello, I came across another ancient looking bridge.

 

 

Determined not to use the Autostrade, I forced myself into downtown Florence, determined to make my way north. I'm a Luddite who refuses to use such aids as GPS so I plowed ahead. Unfortunately, I ended up getting lost big time. Each time I decided to retreat to the relative safety of the Autostrada, I'd spy another sign that would only lure me deeper into its clutches. I finally gave up after about an hour and made my way north along the Autostrada to Mugello....

 

When they aren't working at Papa Guareschi's Guzzi shop, Vito Guareschi is Ducati's Moto GP test pilot. Nice work if you can get it. Gianfranco Guareschi races the MGS-01 for the Guzzi factory. On this day, Vito was testing tires on a pair of new 1098s

 

 

I left Mugello at 3 p.m. as it was a gorgeous day and I wanted to get some more riding in. The hills around Mugello offer some great roads, including the famous Paso di Futa, where Ducati test riders ride from nearby Bologna.

 

 

 

The sun was getting down to that golden hour time and yet, I didn't want to stop riding. I pressed on through the golden sunlight

 

 

This isn't a side street. This is the main road through this small town...beautiful

 

 

A sunny day on a motorcycle in Tuscany...does not suck.

 

 

 

Tuscan twisties

 

 

Finally, around 6 p.m., I called it quits and found a hotel near the racetrack. The next day would be my last and I would have to make my way back to Parma. But I still had time to enjoy the Tuscan roads until heading north at midday. I made my way through the hilly terrain to the beautiful town of Stia. Stia has a wonderful medeival town square.

 

 

 

 

I finally ran out of time and began heading north. Unfortunately, I had to use the Autostrada to make time but, you have to take the good with the bad. I left the bike with the Guareschi boys, bade my farewells and made my way back to Milan.

 

One more for the road.

 

[jihem]

thanx Orson, you just made my day with such nice pics

[Admin Jaap]

Thanks! I always enjoy your ride reports.

[Martin Barrett]

Good to see you back on the Tenni, after a five month layoff?

[Orson]

Good to see you back on the Tenni, after a five month layoff?

7 months

 

It felt good to be back on two wheels

[Guest rosso mandello]

Nice pictures, thanks for the inspiration.

 

I will go to Tuscany this summer, my wife arrives on a plane in Pisa the 1. of june, I´ll pick her up and spend a week with her until she takes the plane back to Denmark. She brings along her gear, so we can go riding in the area.

 

And my RM will have to bring mee all the way, spending a day or two in the alps, Stelvio and Mandello are musts.

 

We are looking foreward to this holiday, should be fun.

 

greetings Mogens.

[Guzzirider]

Great pics as ever Orson- and it is great to see your well travelled bike being used for its intended purpose rather than being cosseted all year!

 

Mogens- if you are in the Alps / Dolomites first 2 weeks of June we may bump into each other- Kilsjon will also be around somewhere!

 

Guy

[JoeV11]

I'm so jealous! LOL Joe

[Alex-Corsa]

Beautifull places , Italy has some of the most beautifull scenery in the world. I always have found some scenery to admire every time I have been there.

[Dan M]

Nice pics & report Orson. I was fortunate enough to ride Tuscany & Umbria in 2005. Thanks for refreshing my memory.

[tikkanen]

Hi Orson

 

Good to see you back on the road again and thanks for sharing your pics.

 

Guzzirider and Kilosjon: If you see a RM in low orbit Mogens just passed you! Don't tell me that I didn't warn you!

 

Emjoy the trip and and keep the tyres on the ground.

 

Søren

 

PS: Guess who's going to Assen, Holland for the Suberbike and Supersport races this weekend? Yeehaah!

[Guest h8chains]

If you keep on posting your trips and describing it very well, there's no point for me to travel. You just saved me a bundle, but you kept the thrill and experience.

[Guest Catenaccio]

Oh, I am so envious! I lived in Italy from '73 through '75 and loved every minute. Still wondering why I came back. Thanks for the pics and report!