Ryland3210 Posted August 30, 2007 Share Posted August 30, 2007 Oh and re-reading this I should point out that we aren't talking about altering the fuel map here, that opens another whole kettle of worms. all you are doing by setting things up this way is optimising the available map. In fact you may not even be doing that! Don't be afraid to experiment. If you find it pings its head off with the TPS set at 150Mv? Well, try another reading and see if that helps! You aren't going to destroy your motor on short test runs. If it still runs like a munter and the plugs are white then you will probably destroy stuff if you choose to ride across West Texas at WFO but as long as you are remotely sensitive that won't happen! While you can get a lot *more* out of the 15M equipped bikes by employing a PCIII, Tuneboy or one of Cliff's units I urge people to actually get the stock system set up well first before going to all the extra hassle and expense. This isn't to say that these products don't work or even don't have a very good place in the overall scheme of things, simply that before you try these alternatives get the original system set up well. THEN when you get bored of how nice it is, THEN you can start looking at the serious hot-ups! Pete Understood, and thanks, Pete. So the bottom line for TPS is 150 mv (even though others have said the target is 150 mv at fully closed) at an idle speed of 1100 to 1200 with vacuum balanced? In an emergency need to replace oil, and your alternatives are cheapo SAE 40 or cheapo 10W40, which is safer in your opinion? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savagehenry Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 I'd like anyone's thoughts on oil "mixing". If you dump 1 1/2 qts. of dino on top of your synth, should you change it asap, or wait till next service. They do make blends, then I hear people who aren't stupid say it's not good. . I'm firm believer in the "Who cares What oil you use, just change it ON TIME, ALL THE TIME" philosyphy. I used Spectro Golden 10/40 for the Nero at 6000 miles, our first service together, to use up what I had on the shelf. I also agree that $$$ oil is WAY cheaper than big bucks parts, which I happen to have inside. I will move to the AGIP this winter, when I install a Roper plate. I seem to see the red light flicker alot. It's ALWAYS on take off. I know why. I spent HOURS on this site BEFORE my purchase, and thx Jaap. Man, I DIG my new bike, ALOT... Thanks in advance, yall, S.H. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 SH, I've read enough on oils to know that the labeling requirements have changed in recent years but they're very strictly enforced. Many of the "synthetic" oils are actually "semi-synthetic" blends of synthetic and dino, as you noted. I forget the latest breakdown and all the terms at the moment (it's not all that important to me -- except when it comes to pure synth. gear lubes!), but my take is that there's certainly no need to worry about mixing. I'm not telling wot I use, because there are those who seem to lose their minds over this kinda stuff, and I seem to attract these types like a magnet. . . I'm just not gonna give any of 'em a target in this particular department, that's all. . . Now I've heard of guys running a new fill of synth. thru the motor to "wash it out" before adding another fill, when switching from dino to synth -- but then I've also heard of guys who wander around their neighborhoods at night in their underwear, sniffing drain-pipes by the light o' the full moon. . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 Understood, and thanks, Pete. So the bottom line for TPS is 150 mv (even though others have said the target is 150 mv at fully closed) at an idle speed of 1100 to 1200 with vacuum balanced? In an emergency need to replace oil, and your alternatives are cheapo SAE 40 or cheapo 10W40, which is safer in your opinion? The term "fully closed" can be misleading. Fully closed with linkage disconnected and set screws backed out and choke not interfering, the TPS should read 150mV ±15mV. Idle should then be set to BOTH the recommended RPM and idle TPS reading(around 500mV not around 150mV). Getting it to do both may require a compromise. The idea is to get the idle to match the recommended RPM and TPS mV without touching the TPS adjuster, since you already set it to 150mV fully closed, etc. The recommended settings vary but are in the range of 1000-1200RPM and ~485-550mV at idle. Most people don't have the tools to set CO. Once TPS is set, and ignoring CO, I think optimization is best done with mapping software, but if you don't have mapping software, twiddling with TPS adjuster at idle may have benefits, just make sensible changes. Also, note that TPS changes by about 10-20mV depending on whether engine is running or not. I favor the engine not running method, but to each their own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Field Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 As Ratchet points out, "synthetic" doesn't really mean what it used to. Castrol won a lawsuit allowing it to, in the US, call its cracked petroleum oil (Syntec) synthetic, so now almost everyone's doing it. Then, they can blend some of this (non)synthetic with regular oil and then call it a "semi-synthetic." Bottom line is, if you're paying under $7 per quart (general rule based on observation), what you are likely getting is the super-refined petro, rather than a true synth or even a true semi-synth. Does it matter? That's certainly open to debate. As a wrench, though, I love pulling the valve covers off an engine run on an ester synth or even ester semi-synth and seeing how spotless they are inside. And then you crack the next one, run on yak fat and see the contrast . . . Just my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 As a wrench, though, I love... As an amateur, I love changing the oil and HEARING the difference. I have rated oils by this highly subjective method and found that Mobil One automotive was loud, perhaps because it was thinner than the other's that I have tried. I forget what weight it was, either 5W50 or 15W50 or 20W50, but it was so thin I chose to change it after 1000 miles. Motul 15W50 full synthetic was quieter. Maxima synthetic blend 20W50 was more quiet than the Motul, but I suspect mostly because the Maxima was thicker. Repsol semi-synthetic seemed as good as the Motul full sythetic. But now, I have pretty much settled on Repsol full synthetic 5W50 as it seems to last longer than any of the aforementioned. Oil changes at 3000 miles show little change in noise. 5000 miles with Repsol feels like 3000 miles with Motul. I am sure there are other good oils out there, but I am not impressed with MobilOne automotive. I'd like to try Maxima full synthetic, Amsoil and RedLine, but prices seem to be too high and Repsol is often on sale. I think good synthetics pay for themselves as you can go many more miles and labor costs are drastically reduced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guzzijack Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 Understood, and thanks, Pete. So the bottom line for TPS is 150 mv (even though others have said the target is 150 mv at fully closed) at an idle speed of 1100 to 1200 with vacuum balanced? No, no I don't think you understood that bit of it! 150mv is the reading that the TPS should give with the throttle butterfly FULLY closed i.e. with idle screw backed out and all linkages/cables disconnected. At 1100/1200 rpm idle you should then find that the TPS reading will be in the low 500mv range. GJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryland3210 Posted September 1, 2007 Share Posted September 1, 2007 No, no I don't think you understood that bit of it! 150mv is the reading that the TPS should give with the throttle butterfly FULLY closed i.e. with idle screw backed out and all linkages/cables disconnected. At 1100/1200 rpm idle you should then find that the TPS reading will be in the low 500mv range. GJ Got it! and thanks. Asking Pete to confirm the bottom line while raising the doubt the way I did was my diplomatic way of asking him to eliminate the ambiguity in his message. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ponti_33609 Posted September 3, 2007 Author Share Posted September 3, 2007 You guys have been awesome with all your replys. Although I am sure the Yak Fat and Extra Virgin Oil will work, here is what I have decided: Amsoil 20w/50 Full Synthetic UFI FIlter I will also remove the whole sump to see how it looks even though it only has 3,400 miles. Sounds not much longer than removing the manhole. Regards, Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbemotumbo Posted September 4, 2007 Share Posted September 4, 2007 So what does this tell us? It tells us that the bearings will take *it*, whatever *it* is ... Gotta agree with Pete. Anything resembling oil in the Guzzi crankcase is probably just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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