luhbo Posted September 26, 2008 Share Posted September 26, 2008 That's forum! Live and Technicolor! Enjoy your bike, Michael, dont mind so much about this or that. Hubert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mznyc Posted September 26, 2008 Author Share Posted September 26, 2008 Before you guys think I'm out of the woods ,.... Still doesn't sound right to me.Also when these symptoms first started,it was blowing the ignition key switch fuse on the second try when the battery was weakened. I went out today and she started only the first time ,a little slow,but fired.Let her run for a few minutes,shut her down and on the second try ,the battery was weak and the fuse blew.Showed 12.8v before the first start. From what I've learned here,it seems like either the battery is damaged or the starter is going and weakening a 6 year old battery.Chicken or the egg,which one is is causing the other to fail? Comments? Ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savagehenry Posted September 27, 2008 Share Posted September 27, 2008 ...weakening a 6 year old battery.Chicken or the egg,which one is is causing the other to fail?Comments? Ideas? I have never had a battery last 6 years, even when put on a trickle charger when dormant. Yours sounds like it is the original. Regardless of your readings,I would change that out just for general maintenence/good practice purposes, unless the cost is truly prohibitive for you. Good luck, S.H. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mznyc Posted September 27, 2008 Author Share Posted September 27, 2008 Hi Henry, Just put an order in for new Hawker, I'll take starter out and clean all connections, Still don't know if the plunger in the solenoid should be lubed,no one's commented on that,.... Thanks, Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savagehenry Posted September 27, 2008 Share Posted September 27, 2008 Still don't know if the plunger in the solenoid should be lubed,no one's commented on that,....Thanks, Michael If it were me, I would lube it lightly anywhere it makes contact with another edge or surface. Any moving part appreciates some way to reduce friction. One rule of lubes I use is "Moly grease if it slides in and out, No moly if it rolls" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luhbo Posted September 27, 2008 Share Posted September 27, 2008 ....I'll take starter out and clean all connections,... Remove the back cover of the starter. This can be done quite easily. A starter failing means the starter has thrown at least one of its magnetoes, this resulting in lots of little magnetic pieces you should be able to see as soon as you've removed the above mentioned cap. Your battery now is six years old, then the starter probably as well. Quite often these starters die younger, as mentioned above several times by several posters Hubert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest frankdugo Posted September 28, 2008 Share Posted September 28, 2008 Hi Henry,Just put an order in for new Hawker, I'll take starter out and clean all connections, Still don't know if the plunger in the solenoid should be lubed,no one's commented on that,.... Thanks, Michael mike, raz posted a link--starter maintence a few days ago Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raz Posted September 28, 2008 Share Posted September 28, 2008 mike, raz posted a link--starter maintence a few days ago Yes but that thread did not answer the "lube plunger?" question. I agree with SH, unless someone authoritative tell us something else I would use a little lube. Maybe dry lube? I also wonder if the starter gear and the ring gear should be completely dry. I guess some grease here would attract lots of clutch dust and do more harm than good. Maybe some dry lube here too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mznyc Posted September 28, 2008 Author Share Posted September 28, 2008 Thanks Raz.That solenoid is only a year or so old,so I hope it isn't mucked up.I remember that I wasn't sure if I should lube that plunger but didn't get a definitive answer from anybody here. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...c=10534&hl=I think I put a light coat on or none at all.Saw your link to servicing starter and didn't see anything about whether to grease or not.I did just skim through it but,will give it a thorough read tonite. If she shows signs of slow starting or hesitation with new batt,I'll do a tear-down. Michael Hi Frank,This is a few posts back,saw that article,but like Raz says no info on lubing.Maybe call EME and see what they say. Think I'm gonna pull starter today and have a look see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mznyc Posted September 28, 2008 Author Share Posted September 28, 2008 OK Took starter out. It had a nice coating of red dust around gear and top of solenoid plunger.No magneto fragments.Ran magnet around opening on motor and no fragments came up.Seemed a little gummy on plunger,but seemed to move freely, so I'm thinking that coat of dust ain't helping,but may not be the problem.I think if I put any grease on the plunger it would only attract more dust. Greg is this normal from what you've seen at the shop? What do you guys think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mznyc Posted September 28, 2008 Author Share Posted September 28, 2008 Cleaned all dust off,electrical cleaner on all connections,dry lube on plunger. Started her up and NO HESITATION ,she started.Maybe that gummed up plunger was the culprit.Got new Hawker on order,if she shows anymore weak starting symptoms ,I'll put that in.Otherwise I might store it till spring.Would I have to put new Hawker on charger over the winter?How long would that factory charge last? Take her out tomorrow or Tues and let you guys know happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Field Posted September 29, 2008 Share Posted September 29, 2008 THe failure mode in Seattle is that htey take on water, rust, and fail. You can see the high-water line clearly inside. I've been thinking of srilling a drainhole in miine but haven't yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luhbo Posted September 29, 2008 Share Posted September 29, 2008 ....How long would that factory charge last?.... They say it will last for 2 or 3 years at least. Just watch the idle voltage (=voltage), as long as it's above 12.3 everything is fine. Nevertheless, the higher the voltage the less sulfate building aka ageing it will have. Hubert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mznyc Posted September 29, 2008 Author Share Posted September 29, 2008 THe failure mode in Seattle is that htey take on water, rust, and fail. You can see the high-water line clearly inside. I've been thinking of srilling a drainhole in miine but haven't yet. Greg,no evidence of water inside,so maybe plunger not fully engaging was the problem, Thanks! They say it will last for 2 or 3 years at least. Just watch the idle voltage (=voltage), as long as it's above 12.3 everything is fine. Nevertheless, the higher the voltage the less sulfate building aka ageing it will have. Hubert Hubert,if the original battery wasn't the problem,no need to change it right away,would like to keep it for remainder of season,and maybe mild winter day.I'm thinking of holding off putting the new Hawker in till spring.I'm wondering how long it will last in the box,new ,unused, without a float charge.6 months or longer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luhbo Posted September 29, 2008 Share Posted September 29, 2008 I understood that. Maybe Idle Voltage was missleading. I was talking about the battery's voltage between the open clamps, on the shelf or in the box or where you'll put it to BTW, look at the diagramm David has posted here, and try to keep the Hawker at at least 50% charge. I would not use a trickle charger or, even worse, a device they call "battery jogger". Hubert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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