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clutch slipping?


richard100t

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No possible physical correlation.

 

Though there have been those who seem to b'lieve their Guzzi's are haunted. . . :rolleyes:

I didnt think there was any correlation either, thats why I resisted going back to world spec. Well that & I love the better performance.

Another thing that I very clearly noticed was that the clutch didnt rattle nearly as much in nuetral with the tighter valves. When I reset to world spec the rattle came back as loud as ever. I know you probably think I'm hearing the valves but I know the difference. Btw I do have the single plate setup if that makes a difference.

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Guest ratchethack
Another thing that I very clearly noticed was that the clutch didnt rattle nearly as much in nuetral with the tighter valves. When I reset to world spec the rattle came back as loud as ever. I know you probably think I'm hearing the valves but I know the difference. Btw I do have the single plate setup if that makes a difference.

The Guzzi music you hear in neutral at idle will get louder at a lower RPM idle, but this has nothing to do with valve settings, either. According to the Maestro of Bungendore, due to the staggered firing order (270 and 450 degrees) of the 90-degree, single-pin crank layout, at lower RPMs, there are changes in angular velocity at the crank WITHIN every revolution -- power pulses, if you will. These power pulses tend to make the clutch do the "Low RPM Cha-cha". The power pulses smooth out with higher RPMs, and the "Cha-cha" goes away. The "Cha-cha" wreaks havoc on the clutch hub/gearbox input shaft splines over time, wearing them out, which eventually makes for an expen$ive tear-down & replace excursion. It's one more reason not to allow idle RPM to go much lower than 1200. :luigi:

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The Guzzi music you hear in neutral at idle will get louder at a lower RPM idle, but this has nothing to do with valve settings, either. According to the Maestro of Bungendore, due to the staggered firing order (270 and 450 degrees) of the 90-degree, single-pin crank layout, at lower RPMs, there are changes in angular velocity at the crank WITHIN every revolution -- power pulses, if you will. These power pulses tend to make the clutch do the "Low RPM Cha-cha". The power pulses smooth out with higher RPMs, and the "Cha-cha" goes away. The "Cha-cha" wreaks havoc on the crank/clutch hub splines over time, wearing them out, which eventually makes for an expen$ive tear-down & replace excursion. It's one more reason not to allow idle RPM to go much lower than 1200. :luigi:

Everything you say is true in your post. I never changed the idle speed though. Its right at about 1150rpm, same as always.

I'm still saying that something changed when I reset the valves that affects the way the bike shifts. I believe that whatever smoothed out the chatter with the tighter valve settings caused it to have the shifting problems.

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Guest ratchethack
I'm still saying that something changed when I reset the valves that affects the way the bike shifts. I believe that whatever smoothed out the chatter with the tighter valve settings caused it to have the shifting problems.

Well Richard, if you ever figure out wot this mysterious connection is, my friend, please let us know.

 

However, you might want to call Art Bell first. He tends to welcome accounts of the paranormal with more enthusiasm than most, (but by no means ALL!) o' the "Curmudgies" around here (myself included). ;)

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Well Richard, if you ever figure out wot this mysterious connection is, my friend, please let us know.

 

However, you might want to call Art Bell first. He tends to welcome accounts of the paranormal with more enthusiasm than (most) o' the "Curmudgies" around here (myself included). ;)

Hahaha if I could explain it I would. I really dont disagree with you. I'm just saying that is what happened. It doesnt make any sense to me either. Is there an Italian Art Bell with a show called Italy after dark? That may be the place to call :lol:

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You now have my interest piqued. It's possible that your bike has excessive thrust clearance on the crank. DOes engine rpm slow at all when you pull in the clutch?

Well I dont think so. If it does its too small to notice. The main thing that I did notice was the rattling that the single plate does in nuetral was very noticeably reduced with the valves set tighter. As soon as I went back to world spec it went back to the normal rattle that I was used to.

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Well Richard, if you ever figure out wot this mysterious connection is, my friend, please let us know.

 

However, you might want to call Art Bell first. He tends to welcome accounts of the paranormal with more enthusiasm than most, (but by no means ALL!) o' the "Curmudgies" around here (myself included). ;)

I've been investigating the paranormal in order to solv this mystery & I've stumbled upon "incontrovertible" evidence of life after death. This video is not for the faint of heart! If you cannot accept that there is an afterlife please do not view this clip as it may disturb your worldview!

 

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Did you check the screws holding the slave cylinder to the gbox endplate? I had one screw missing & the other two backing off, which meant pulling in the clutch lever pushed the cylinder away from the gbox rather than just acting on the pushrod to disengage the clutch.

 

KB :sun:

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Did you check the screws holding the slave cylinder to the gbox endplate? I had one screw missing & the other two backing off, which meant pulling in the clutch lever pushed the cylinder away from the gbox rather than just acting on the pushrod to disengage the clutch.

 

KB :sun:

You know thats a good idea to check those screws... I have solved the problem & my bike shifts fine now, but I'm always on the lookout for a loose bolt.

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