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tricatcent

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Howzabout the idea of taking out the injectors and sitting them in a pan of undiluted Seafoam, Techron or other favorite de-varnishing cocktail for longish periods of time, and/or applying voltage on the bench to open & close 'em whilst submerged? :huh2:

 

Taking them out and cycling them is even better if he is so inclined. It that is the case I'd use a stronger solvent like carburetor cleaner. Seafoam and Techron work best with warm (operating temp) parts. If you are going to energize them manually, pulse the power to them, don't just apply 12V & ground and pin them open.

 

Another option is to remove the fuel lines at the injectors and fill the injectors with carb spray and let it soak overnight. Put the lines back on and run the motor. It will be a little difficult to start at first until the solvent is replaced by gas but it is an effective way without having to remove the injectors.

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Seafoam and Techron work best with warm (operating temp) parts.

Observing all due safety precautions, and depending on resources, it might be worth considering a mini "hot tank" bath on a hot plate, stove, or even over an open flame. Just another thought.

Another option is to remove the fuel lines at the injectors and fill the injectors with carb spray and let it soak overnight. Put the lines back on and run the motor. It will be a little difficult to start at first until the solvent is replaced by gas but it is an effective way without having to remove the injectors.

Good stuff to keep in mind, Dan. No symptoms here (yet), but our CA Eco-Nazi fuel :bbblll: is notorious for taking a potentially heavy toll on valves, piston crowns, and cylinder heads, eventually. Can't conceive of how 10+% ethanol could gum injectors, but I've got to the point lately by observing what's going on around me here in CA where I don't trust anything that's regulated. Without having tested it yourself, you never really know WOT they've done to contaminate and dumb down fuel lately. <_< Best be prepared.

 

Thanks. :thumbsup:

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Observing all due safety precautions, and depending on resources, it might be worth considering a mini "hot tank" bath on a hot plate, stove, or even over an open flame. Just another thought.

 

 

Maybe but cleaning the soot from the garage after the fire may be more trouble than the clean injector is worth :lol:

 

The Seafoam can says "DANGER: FLAMMABLE" :!:

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I put one can of seafoam through the bike, in about 3 tanks of gas. Maybe I should try more.

 

One of my friends, who is a Guzzi and Triumph mechanic, says he has cleaned horribly dirty Guzzi injectors by removing them from the bike, installing a length of hose that he filled with Mopar combustion chamber cleaner, (he gave me some) Then you hook an air hose to the system to pressurize it and cycle the injector with 12 Volts. He says he cleaned up a bike that had been sitting for about 5 years and was all green in the tank. After this work it ran perfect.

 

I was thinking that the injector had some close tolerance pieces that were hanging up from some gauling that may have happend from dirt. If the problem is really only varnish, and not wear or a bad spring or something, it should be possible to clean it.

 

maybe it just needs a really good soak in some concentrated solvent.

 

how do you remove the injectors from the bike? do I have to remove the throttle body?

 

Nigel

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I put one can of seafoam through the bike, in about 3 tanks of gas. Maybe I should try more.

 

One of my friends, who is a Guzzi and Triumph mechanic, says he has cleaned horribly dirty Guzzi injectors by removing them from the bike, installing a length of hose that he filled with Mopar combustion chamber cleaner, (he gave me some) Then you hook an air hose to the system to pressurize it and cycle the injector with 12 Volts. He says he cleaned up a bike that had been sitting for about 5 years and was all green in the tank. After this work it ran perfect.

 

I was thinking that the injector had some close tolerance pieces that were hanging up from some gauling that may have happend from dirt. If the problem is really only varnish, and not wear or a bad spring or something, it should be possible to clean it.

 

maybe it just needs a really good soak in some concentrated solvent.

 

how do you remove the injectors from the bike? do I have to remove the throttle body?

 

Nigel

 

It could be that the injector is just dirty and cleaning it will fix it. I have not had good luck with that but maybe you will. But as you mentioned, it could also be a broken or worn/gauled part that is causing the problem. All the cleaner in the world won't fix that.

As I recall you don't have to remove the throttle body and they are pretty easy to remove. The only tricky bit was the clamp on fuel connection is a one time use clamp. But I have only actually had to remove the injectors on a Buell, never on my Guzzi so don't trust me on that.

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Tonight I removed one of the fuel lines, shook the fuel out and then re filled it with Mopar combustion chamber cleaner. Then I started the engine and ran it for a few seconds. Hopefully the injector is now full of this mopar solvent. I will leave it overnight.

 

The fuel line connects to the injector and then there is a tee and the line continues down towards the back of the bike. Where does that line go? Will the cleaner be forced into the injector or can it by pass the injector by this other line.

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The fuel line connects to the injector and then there is a tee and the line continues down towards the back of the bike. Where does that line go? Will the cleaner be forced into the injector or can it by pass the injector by this other line.

 

The fuel comes from the valve on the left side of the bike and goes to the pump. Then to the injectors and then to the regulator and back into the tank. It is constantly flowing in a loop with the portion between the pump and regulator under pressure for the injectors to use. Way more fuel loops back to the tank than goes through the injectors. Depending on how long you ran the bike you may have just pushed the cleaner back into the tank. If it were straight cleaner in the lines and injectors, I doubt the bike would start or run. I have no idea the effect the chosen chemical has on the inside of yout tank, if any.

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Adding the solvent to the fuel line did nothing. I think it just went straight back to the tank immediately and almost none of it went to the injector.

 

I removed the injector yesterday. It was easy to remove the injector once I took the airbox off. I have now temporarily replaced the airbox with pods. I think I like it better that way. I cleaned the injector by attaching a hose filled with solvent. I put an air hose onto the end of the hose, and cycled the injector. That didn't seem like it did anything either because the injector still sticks, especially when starting the engine. Once the engine settles down though it runs great. I went for a 180 km ride last night on the Squamish Highway and it was fantastic. I was averaging 120 kms and I was runnning mainly in 5th. When I first got this bike I thought it needed taller gearing. Now I realize it is perfect.

 

I haven't done one other thing that I must do before I buy an new injector which is swap one injector for the other to make sure that it is not an electrical problem. Maybe I will do that tomorrow.

 

The injectors seem to be pretty expensive.

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I doubt that Guzzis use special injectors. You may find the same injector from a different source to be cheaper.

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The injectors seem to be pretty expensive.

 

Back in post 9 you thought the Seafoam was helping. Why not give it another tank full with a strong mix (whole can for a full tank) and see if it clears up completely?

These companies that "recondition" injectors do nothing more than check that they have electircal integrity, make sure the return spring is not faulty and clean them. No new parts.

If your spring was broken it would leak constantly. What you are describing is a classic sticky injector that nearly always is caused by deposits on the shaft or pintle. The fact that these reconditioners sell literally thousands of these cleaned units and stand behind them should tell you something about deposits being the culprit.

How many miles are on your bike?

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I doubt that seafoam will fix a broken injector, but it is possible that yours is only dirty. But it sounds like it is broken. The spring that closes it could be broken or the shaft could be binding. But obviously it is hard to tell from here. If cleaning is actually going to work I would think it would require removing the injector from the bike and backflushing it with cleaner to force whatever could be causing it to stick open back out the larger hole at the inlet to the injector. This would be possible to rig up with a little creative thinking on your part.

Personally I would try to identify who made the injector and what its part number is and buy a new, preferably matched set from a company like this.

http://www.rceng.com/index.aspx

Reconditioned injectors could be fine, but they do not save you that much money and personally I go on long rides on my bikes and do not want to be stranded in EBF.

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Here's another thought. Find an independent auto shop that has a MotorVac machine. Talk to the owner and see if he'll run it on your bike. The system has two modes one with the motor off and one with the motor running. A typical job gets both but the fact that your bike is air cooled, idling it for 30 minutes is out of the question without some major fans, so he should only run it in the static mode.

Anyway, the system will flush solvent through the lines and injectors under pressure for as long as the guy wants to set the timer for. 30 minutes is a normal cycle. The thing works really well. I have been using this system for more than 10 years and currently have two of these machines in my shop. The only trick for you is to find someone willing to hook it up to your bike.

 

http://www.motorvac.com/products/CarbonCleanMCS245.html

 

just another :2c: worth

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It isn't the injector! Tonight I swaped the injectors right for left. The problem stayed on the right side. What would cause this? I guess the next step is to remove the power commander to see if it is the cause of the problem.

 

 

Mainly I have this problem when I start the engine. After a brief warm up it goes away. It does it more often when the engine is warm. It may be worse in the afternoon when the air is hot.

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