Guest ratchethack Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 FWIW I put a piece of clay on top of the harness connector where it plugs in to the ECU, then I put the seat on and bounced on it a few times. The clay showed VERY little clearance between the bottom of the seat and the harness connector. I'm guessing that my seat has contacted the connector a few times and that's what caused the etch to pop at that connector pin. Maybe it's time to lose some weight Interesting. I noticed the potential threat of the seat to the ECU many years ago on my bike. It looked like a disaster waiting to happen to me. So I re-mounted the ECU with the connector facing DOWN, reasoning that the wires and connector would be protected, and this would be a far less risky config for damage from the seat working the connector and wires on every hard bump. . . Again -- How did you find the break, and could you tell it was a result of physical impact on the board? Again -- TPS reading after indexing @ idle w/TBs connected? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom M Posted June 9, 2009 Author Share Posted June 9, 2009 Tom, just curious. After "indexing" to 150 mV baseline, what TPS reading does this give you at idle with TBs linked, and at what RPM is your idle? Nice "find and fix" work on that broken etch on the PC board, BTW. Was the break a result of something physically contacting the board, and how did you find it?? I believe my baseline TPS is about 250mV. I set the TPS to about 530mV @ 1150rpm. See my saga here if interested: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...88&hl=Micha As I mentioned above, I think my seat is hitting the ECU connector if I slam into a bump. I'm going to find some shorter shock mounts for the ECU. I should probably pick up a couple more nights of hockey too. Apparently I need to drop some weight. When I was trying to figure out the fuel pump priming problem I hit a point where the pump was priming with the seat off, but when I put the seat back on and sat on the bike the pump wouldn't prime. I wiggled and pushed on the relay and that didn't help, then I pushed on the ECU connector and heard the relay trip and the pump prime. I repeated it about 10 times with both the PCIII plug and the stock harness plug to narrow the problem down to the ECU. I got lucky. edit: I like your idea of flipping the ECU over. I'll do that before I ride again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Admin Jaap Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 Weird... I have never seen an ECU with the connector facing upwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan M Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 FWIW I put a piece of clay on top of the harness connector where it plugs in to the ECU, then I put the seat on and bounced on it a few times. The clay showed VERY little clearance between the bottom of the seat and the harness connector. I'm guessing that my seat has contacted the connector a few times and that's what caused the etch to pop at that connector pin. Maybe it's time to lose some weight Hey Tom, You are probably right about the seat flexing the board but just to be safe, you may want to put an amp meter on that circuit. Excessive draw can do that to the board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 I got lucky. "Luck" is when opportunity meets preparedness. In any event, nice save on the ECU. I believe my baseline TPS is about 250mV. I set the TPS to about 530mV @ 1150rpm. Hm. I think you might've meant to post wot you'd posted previously (150 mV)? This fits the "TPS setting rule o' thumb." But now I'm confused, because you also said: I don't know why but my bike runs like crap if the TPS is set to 150mV baseline (with the linkage disconnected). If you're saying that it only runs well at 250 mV baseline and that this "translates" to 530 mV @ 1150 RPM, this also makes sense to me, because the motor should never see operating conditions with TPS readings too far below 500 mV or so, unless the idle is set too low for the health of the plain bearings. That's why I prefer using the TB connected method of setting the TPS, though checking the baseline is a good "sanity" check -- even if it's considerably "off" the factory recommended 150 mV. I reckon there's more likely to be variances in TPS windings at the extreme low end than up in the operating range. But o' course, that's just me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mznyc Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 FWIW I put a piece of clay on top of the harness connector where it plugs in to the ECU, then I put the seat on and bounced on it a few times. The clay showed VERY little clearance between the bottom of the seat and the harness connector. I'm guessing that my seat has contacted the connector a few times and that's what caused the etch to pop at that connector pin. Maybe it's time to lose some weight That's friggin brilliant! Have you considered Mark at Dyno Solutions? Heard he is the man for dyno tuning in our area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom M Posted June 10, 2009 Author Share Posted June 10, 2009 If you're saying that it only runs well at 250 mV baseline and that this "translates" to 530 mV @ 1150 RPM, this also makes sense to me, because the motor should never see operating conditions with TPS readings too far below 500 mV or so, unless the idle is set too low for the health of the plain bearings. That's why I prefer using the TB connected method of setting the TPS, though checking the baseline is a good "sanity" check -- even if it's considerably "off" the factory recommended 150 mV. I reckon there's more likely to be variances in TPS windings at the extreme low end than up in the operating range. I just wanted to let mznyc know that my bike didn't run well when I set the TPS up using the method posted in the how to section. I had much better luck with the Micha method which ignores the 150mV "linkage disconnected" setting, and has you balance the TB's and set the air screws and idle before setting the TPS. Details are in the thread that I linked above. Let's try and keep this thread focused on ECU problem & repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luhbo Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 (edited) FWIW I put a piece of clay on top of the harness connector where it plugs in to the ECU, then I put the seat on and bounced on it a few times. The clay showed VERY little clearance between the bottom of the seat and the harness connector. I'm guessing that my seat has contacted the connector a few times and that's what caused the etch to pop at that connector pin. Maybe it's time to lose some weight ......That's friggin brilliant! .... Have you considered to just turn around the ecu, so that the connector points downwards? Hubert edit: seems as if I came a bit slow with this idea Edited June 10, 2009 by luhbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom M Posted June 10, 2009 Author Share Posted June 10, 2009 Weird... I have never seen an ECU with the connector facing upwards. I skimmed through the repair manual and saw the ECU mounted both ways in different pictures. I've seen a few pics posted on this site from US guys that showed the ECU mounted with the connector facing up like mine. Maybe the factory installed them both ways? Maybe whoever installed the PCIII on my bike changed the ECU orientation? I don't know, but I'm going to flip mine over so the connector faces down before I suffer another mysterious electrical problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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