nuevototem Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 Hi, I always do the service myself but take it to the dealer to do the carburetion using AXONE. How to do it myself? Any experience to share? Best regards, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 Unless you have a dealer who is an idiot you are not going to save anything with what you are attempting. First, you will have to purchase the AXEONE. Second ,you will have to be trained to use it. Third,do you realize how much you are going to spend to accomplish this? Why not treat your mechanic to lunch and discuss tips on calibration,adjustments,etc. Making him aware of your appreciation for him and his knowledge will get you much further than anything else. Everyone here in the States uses a PowerCommander or similar device to fine tune glitchers with their bike. if you go for this, go to a dealer that sells and services thes units. Buying something you can't work on competently is a waste of money. Hope this helps! Gene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrt Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 An alternative opinion- I do almost all the service on my bike. For FI adjustments, I follow a very simple proceedure that seems to work well. 1st, adjust for even balance on the exhaust. To be honest, I still use the 'put one hand over each exhaust and blip the throttle' method. Then, set the TPS to the recommended mV range (which I don't recall offhand). That's it. And the balance, I've only adjusted it once in 20K miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom M Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 Guzzis are great if you prefer to work do your own work. Adjust the valves, sync the throttle bodies, check and maybe reset the TPS. Instructions on how to do each of these tasks without an Axeone are all over this board and in the FAQ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lemppari Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 Hi! I'll have to adjust the TPS and balance, 'cause my mpg's been on the low side recently. Reading through the how to, I'd like to get some things positively straight. After I've screwed out the right hand idle screw and adjusted the TPS, I DON'T TOUCH THE RIGHT HAND SCREW NO MORE DURING THE REST OF THE SET UP? So the screw just sits there redundant? The rest is plain sailing and compares to carbs balancing which I'm more familiar with. BTW, has anyone in this forum had problems with a wailing gear. No 6, to be precise. Sings louder than the open Mistrals and there's less than 30 000 km's on it. Henri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom M Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 Hi!I'll have to adjust the TPS and balance, 'cause my mpg's been on the low side recently. Reading through the how to, I'd like to get some things positively straight. After I've screwed out the right hand idle screw and adjusted the TPS, I DON'T TOUCH THE RIGHT HAND SCREW NO MORE DURING THE REST OF THE SET UP? So the screw just sits there redundant? The rest is plain sailing and compares to carbs balancing which I'm more familiar with. BTW, has anyone in this forum had problems with a wailing gear. No 6, to be precise. Sings louder than the open Mistrals and there's less than 30 000 km's on it. Henri You are correct on the right side throttle stop Henri. You want to use only the left side stop screw to adjust idle. Keep the right side out of contact with the throttle linkage, or remove it entirely. I haven't seen any mention of 6th gear whine here before your post so I don't think it's a common problem. If it were my bike I'd look into it right away though because something isn't right there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 Henri, There is a good tune-up procedure pinned at the top of the Tech Forum page that you can do without the Axone or computer software. It does require a good digital multimeter. How long since the gear oil has been changed? Many have found Redline gear oil to be good medicine for the gearbox. It will be important to resolve the gear whine quickly. Oh, not all Americans use the Power Commander. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lemppari Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 Ok, last and my first time I adjusted the idle from the right side and getting things balanced wasn't easy. Problem solved, phew. The gear whine bothers only between 3 and four thou, i.e. 100-120 kph. At 130 plus you don't hear it, but I suspect it's because the bikini fairing directs the airflow directly to and around the helmet so deafening any sounds from the gearbox. I too haven't any PC III or such like, the only alteration so far being the Mistrals, even the crossover is standard. The only weak spot so far is around 2200 rpm, but as I said I'm getting a poor mileage so I guess I'm running rich. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Have you removed the spark plugs and inspected them? with a proper set-up fuel injection system they will look almost perfect. Nothing much darker than a new spark plug. There are pictures posted on the net somewhere so you can "read" spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lemppari Posted September 18, 2009 Share Posted September 18, 2009 Did the setting and calibration while the front tyre was changed ( talk about efficiency!). Opened up the valve clearances to .15 and .20 mm. The plugs were pitch black, so the TPS setting had been far too high. I left it a tad over the spec, it's now 175 mV. The bleed air srews were open 1,5 turns! and I started with 0,5. However, the bike started running irregularly on low rews, so I opened the bleed screws to 0,75 and the TPS reads 480 mV on idle. The bike runs perfect but I still have to wait and see if I get any noticeable increase in mileage. I'll have to do a dyno run some time soon before making further changes to intake/exhaust and/or buying a PC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lemppari Posted September 19, 2009 Share Posted September 19, 2009 Really big increase in mileage! From about 7,8-8.1 liters/ 100 km to 5,5! The drawback being a flat- no, empty- spot between 1800 and 2000. Makes intersections a bit hard to negotiate, when the bike starts to cough whilw you're trying to accelerate. I fiddled a bit with different bleed screw settings but no avail. So, without a PC III there was only resetting the TPS a bit higher. I'll take a slightly lesser mileage gladly if it transforms to tractability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom M Posted September 19, 2009 Share Posted September 19, 2009 Really big increase in mileage! From about 7,8-8.1 liters/ 100 km to 5,5! The drawback being a flat- no, empty- spot between 1800 and 2000. Makes intersections a bit hard to negotiate, when the bike starts to cough whilw you're trying to accelerate. I fiddled a bit with different bleed screw settings but no avail. So, without a PC III there was only resetting the TPS a bit higher. I'll take a slightly lesser mileage gladly if it transforms to tractability. I bet you're too lean if your at 480mV at idle. Bump it up to 525mV at 1100rpm idle and see how it runs. See this thread for an easier and possibly better method on TPS adjustment: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...88&hl=Micha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted September 19, 2009 Share Posted September 19, 2009 I bet you're too lean if your at 480mV at idle. Bump it up to 525mV at 1100rpm idle and see how it runs. See this thread for an easier and possibly better method on TPS adjustment: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...88&hl=Micha I second what Tom says! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grouchy Posted October 4, 2009 Share Posted October 4, 2009 As a new owner of the 2003 Sport/Lemans, I've found the method posted here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12204 to be straight forward and easy to follow. It cured my hiccup at arround 1700 rpm as indicated by the OE tach. When the proceedure was completed, tach indicated 1000 RPMs, but, on a subsequent test ride, increased to somewhere between 1100 and 1200 RPMs after engine warmed to operating temp. Later rides found RPMs to have settled around the 1100 RPM mark and engine runs good without missing or coughing anywhere in the rev range. Suspect the Factory OE tach to be a little off calibration. Plug reading shows a little lean condition, but acceptable. Now, the only way I think I can cure the lean condition is with the Power Commander. My bike is not stock. The evaporative emisssions equipment has been removed, and a Stucci crossover iinstalled. Stock air box is retained, with K&N filter. These are the only mods. No Power Commander map currently exists for this configuration. I finally wish to emphasize that the proceedure was followed to the letter with no values changed. I used only a Carb Stick mercury manometer and a good quality digital multimeter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 Your last sentence tells us you are no dummy. Google PowerCommander and look for a dealer/service center and go with the service center. They should be able to tweak the "map" to take care of the mods done to your bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now