belfastguzzi Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Another possible fix is to tighten the timing case bolts. They might be loose. Now that would be an easy one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Hylomar is some kind of goo made to RollsRoyce specs. for Rolls. It is a translucent blue fluid (?) that if applied to the gasket surface will you allow you to remove it(the part) without sticking to the mating surface. High-tack is a spray or liquid that will allow the gasket to be held in place to reassemlble the parts. CopperCoat is good for assembly also. If you feel confident in not using gasket, Yamabond or an anaerobic sealer made by Loctite is excellent to use. After looking at the engine block here in the shop I would use the Loctite red sealant sans gasket. It will require a perfectly clean (no oil) surface. Use a bead just large enough to say there is one and reassemble. There will be a small amount ooze out to prove you have a good application. The benefit to doing this is twofold: You didn't have to purchase a gasket and it will never work loose and leak. Hope this helps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan M Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 It still looks like poorly applied epoxy to me – partly from the look of it and partly from the way that it has split along the joint line.Silicone sealant DOES work. It's quick and easy. Which is a good thing. He indicated it was rubbery so I assumed silicone. I'm with BFG on trying to seal if you don't want to go in. I did just that in a pinch when I discovered mine leaking the night before a planned long ride a couple of years ago. Scrape all the old stuff off. If it is silicone, a razor blade is your friend. If gasket is protruding, pull out what you can with some needle nose pliers. (it will probably be an inch so that is loose) Clean the surface and push silicone into the gap where the gasket was. Wipe off the excess so it doesn't look like your picture and let it cure. The most important thing is to get the oil / grease out of the gap so the silicone will adhere. Brake clean and a blow gun is good for that. One more thing, if you go crazy with the brake clean and it gets into your oil, change it. (not too likely) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belfastguzzi Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 He indicated it was rubbery so I assumed silicone. I assumed that he assumed it was rubbery cos it looked like it might be, sort of. I assumed otherwise. One more thing, if you go crazy with the brake clean .... 1) Don't sniff it. 2) Not for internal consumption. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badge502 Posted January 20, 2010 Author Share Posted January 20, 2010 I assumed that he assumed it was rubbery cos it looked like it might be, sort of. I assumed otherwise. 1) Don't sniff it. 2) Not for internal consumption. You're no fun... I am going to try the External Patch Repair method... If it works, GREAT! If not, then I will probably load it up and haul it to MPH. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 No patching.........If you don't feel froggy, take it to MPH. See if they will let you watch wile they fix it. The worst thing about MotoGuzzi is the fact they are the simplest bike being manufactured. You wiil (after you get over your fear) love working on this engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belfastguzzi Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 .....You wiil... love working on this engine. Too amusing Gene. Your hilarious banter is giving me belly ache Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Quick and easy alternatives to proper repairs abound. . . . And then there are the Artful Bodgers. . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Too amusing Gene. Your hilarious banter is giving me belly ache I should amend my statement with an asterisk. * you will not like going behind some clown who f****d up your prize posession or the idiots that designed something (nylon fuel line)25 mm too short. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belfastguzzi Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Quick and easy alternatives to proper repairs abound. . . . And then there are the Artful Bodgers. . . Yikes, what's the definition of 'a proper repair'? A repair that is carried out by P.Roper? A repair that restores the bike to the exact condition in which it was 'properly' delivered from the factory? A repair that is 'properly' carried out by an authorised service centre? A repair that only uses oem parts from the factory and not alternatives? A repair that exactly follows the illustrated procedures and specifications supplied by the manufacturer (by manufacturer, we mean, here, Moto Guzzi) I can tell you all about those 'proper' repairs and show you the photographs. And tell you the results. I only wish that I could have been 'authorised' to do them 'properly' myself under warranty. Oh, by the way, here's Moto Guzzi's 'proper' procedure for repairing a new engine that has had the 'proper' factory parts disintegrate to shrapnel and grind through the system:– 1) Take one wrecked bike 2) Drain the oil 3) Don't do an internal inspection 4) Fill with fresh oil to flush 5) Drain 6) Fill again. (Have the 'proper' service agent refill with a completely different spec of oil than is specified for use) 7) Be grateful and delighted No: don't try that at home folks. It just wouldn't be proper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan M Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Quick and easy alternatives to proper repairs abound. . . . And then there are the Artful Bodgers. . . For when yer speedo goes tits up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Yikes, what's the definition of 'a proper repair'? Well, BFG, in the context of the thread topic, I reckon wot I did (see post #2) might qualify, since it actually worked the first time (and ever since): I . . .replaced the gasket with a "light" application of silicone gasket sealant. Not a weep, nor a seep since. Simple enough, really. And as permanent as it can be. "A proper repair". No point in a photo, since there's nothing to see beyond wot it looked like when new. But then, on the other hand. . . Anybody here ever pay a Pro for something like this?^ If you actually prefer a "colorful" and/or "artistic interpretation"^ -- such as a bad bathtub caulking job gone horribly wrong, and don't mind the maintenance of perpetual re-do and re-seepage, not to mention the loss of oil, the clean-up of the Guzzi -- like the Bodge Job that Badge 502 inherited from the PO, and didn't seem any too pleased with, for instance -- not to mention oil on your clothes, garage floor, etc., and the general "artistic statement" that says, "a Guinea baboon was here", well, I reckon the relatively "high effort" of long-term Artful Bodgery is your preferred choice, and to each his own. . . . Not too difficult a choice to make for anyone who insists on "a proper repair" though, is it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belfastguzzi Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Well, BFG, in the context of the thread topic, I reckon wot I did (see post #2) might qualify, since it actually worked the first time (and ever since): Simple enough, really. And as permanent as it can be. "A proper repair". No point in a photo, since there's nothing to see beyond wot it looked like when new. But then, on the other hand. . . Anybody here ever pay a Pro for something like this?^ Sorry Ratchet, but it really is impossible to understand you and the approach that you take, in denigrating people. As I have said, the simple repair that I did also served precisely in the way that you define, i.e. "it actually worked the first time (and ever since)" So by your definition, my suggestion was just as good as yours or any other. As for the blue sealant, if you bothered to read, I said here as I said before that the blue (which shows clearly in a photo) was covered by black – when it becomes pretty much invisible (so doesn't show in a photograph). No I'm not a pro. Nor are the vast majority of people who bother to participate in Forums. As far as I can see, the pros tend not to contribute, with the well-known exceptions. Like most others, I'm only trying to show what has worked for me (and might work for others) and also what hasn't worked. Most of us appreciate people giving their thoughts and their experience: partly because we need solutions and partly because we don't have a local source of help to go to. Few of us claim that that what we are presenting is PERFECT, or the only PROPER way to do anything. Our efforts may offend your professional sensibilities, but we don't need to always be told that we're wrong, stupid, inept and ugly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 Our efforts may offend your professional sensibilities, but we don't need to always be told that we're wrong, stupid, inept and ugly. Well Blimey, BFG! You're a bit of a sensitive sort, aren't you? "Our efforts"?? Who, exactly, are you lumping in with the "Royal We"?? Correct me if I'm wrong here, BFG. But wot you seem to've recommended is exactly wot Badge 502 opened this thread with. It's wot he apparently considered to be a problem. And "properly" so. Seems to me he was looking for suggestions on "a proper repair" -- not another re-do of wot he inherited to set himself back on on the "treadmill" plan. The Artful Bodger Boy: Fagin, this sausage is moldy! Fagin: Shut up and drink your gin. BTW - No point in alarming the lad with tales of a cracked case, either. To my knowledge, there have only been 2 in the 6 years I've been monitoring this Forum -- both of which showed up after a significant crash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belfastguzzi Posted January 20, 2010 Share Posted January 20, 2010 which showed up after a significant crash. Mine didn't have a significant crash. Plus, I tried not to alarm by repeating that it was very unlikely to be cracked. Not knowing the history, it is however a possibility, so when he's at the point of cleaning the joint and inspecting the area is it not helpful to be aware of what to look for? Just as the tightness of the fastenings should be checked as well. That is unlikely to be the cause, but it doesn't hurt anything or anybody to spend half a minute checking. Makes sense to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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