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Air filter detonation


Golem

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hello everyone,

After adjusting tps the engine began to give detonation in the airfilter.

I don't know what I did wrong as I have set the tps on 150mv (fully closed), then syncronize the cylinders and finally set the tps on 520 mv on idle (1000 rpm).

Can anyone help me with this problem?

Thanks,

Paul

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hello everyone,

After adjusting tps the engine began to give detonation in the airfilter.

I don't know what I did wrong as I have set the tps on 150mv (fully closed), then syncronize the cylinders and finally set the tps on 520 mv on idle (1000 rpm).

Can anyone help me with this problem?

Thanks,

Paul

What is detonation in the air filter?

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what are your air by pass screws set at or do you have an air leak to the intake?

Yes it has backfiring through the carbs

The air screws is set at 1.5 and no air leak

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Did you measure TPS setting before you began adjusting it? I had the exact same problem. Checked till I was blue in the face for other problems and just eventually set it back to where it was before I started fiddling with it (about 300mv fully closed) and the backfiring issue went away. Apparently the previous owner had it set where it was for a reason, at least on my bike. I may someday figure out why mine prefers a higher setting at fully closed but as yet I'm stumped.

 

TDF

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Did you measure TPS setting before you began adjusting it? I had the exact same problem. Checked till I was blue in the face for other problems and just eventually set it back to where it was before I started fiddling with it (about 300mv fully closed) and the backfiring issue went away. Apparently the previous owner had it set where it was for a reason, at least on my bike. I may someday figure out why mine prefers a higher setting at fully closed but as yet I'm stumped.

 

TDF

No, I didn't but I think it is mandatory for the bike to run well at 150mv unless a very good reason is provided.

It is the factory setting after all...

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No, I didn't but I think it is mandatory for the bike to run well at 150mv unless a very good reason is provided.

It is the factory setting after all...

 

 

Factory setting yes, but remember these are italian ladies and they can be fickle.....Is your bike absolutely stock? Have you owned it since new? Has anybody played with the computer? I bought mine used with many aftermarket parts and an uncertain history. There's a thread either here or over on the Wildguzzi forum where a discussion was held and a few owners didn't end up at 150mv base setting to get their bikes to run right.

 

TDF

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hello everyone,

After adjusting tps the engine began to give detonation in the airfilter.

I don't know what I did wrong as I have set the tps on 150mv (fully closed), then syncronize the cylinders and finally set the tps on 520 mv on idle (1000 rpm).

Can anyone help me with this problem?

Thanks,

Paul

Hi Paul

 

You did fine doing so and if the engine does not perform well it is likely the CO setting in the ECU is too lean. To change this you need an axone tester and a CO meter. A well equipped Guzzi dealer should be able to do this. Set it to 3,5 % CO. This is an important step in the tuning procedure and richening the engine by setting the TPS to a higher mV figure is not the correct way as was described in some posts above.

 

If the CO figure is correct you may have to open/close the bypass screws slightly to get the correct idle speed.

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Hi Paul

 

You did fine doing so and if the engine does not perform well it is likely the CO setting in the ECU is too lean. To change this you need an axone tester and a CO meter. A well equipped Guzzi dealer should be able to do this. Set it to 3,5 % CO. This is an important step in the tuning procedure and richening the engine by setting the TPS to a higher mV figure is not the correct way as was described in some posts above.

 

If the CO figure is correct you may have to open/close the bypass screws slightly to get the correct idle speed.

Hello and thanks for your answer.

I will do that in the next few days. However I dont't know if the CO has to be set at 3,5% or higher because in the tuning I have installed open K&N filters, Termignoni exhaust and an IAW15M ECU, and the engine has now a much larger amount of entering air.

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However I dont't know if the CO has to be set at 3,5% or higher because in the tuning I have installed open K&N filters, Termignoni exhaust and an IAW15M ECU, and the engine has now a much larger amount of entering air.

That is exactly why you "set" the CO. It will compensate for whatever cans or filters you use. Try 3.5% and you'll likely be fine.

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Did you measure TPS setting before you began adjusting it? I had the exact same problem. Checked till I was blue in the face for other problems and just eventually set it back to where it was before I started fiddling with it (about 300mv fully closed) and the backfiring issue went away.

 

Yup

Mine seems to be doing the same. 150/520 and it runs like a bucking bronco. At 300/whatever runs silky (Air screws 1-turn).

It's been driving me nuts for two weeks.

Maybe June wasn't my month.

Rob

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  • 2 weeks later...

That is exactly why you "set" the CO. It will compensate for whatever cans or filters you use. Try 3.5% and you'll likely be fine.

I went to a MG delear and they adjust the CO and also the fuel to compensate the open filter. The bike runs great but only over 3000 rpm. it still have backfiring under 3000 rpm and also the engine break isn't as strong as before...

any ideea?

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I went to a MG delear and they adjust the CO and also the fuel to compensate the open filter. The bike runs great but only over 3000 rpm. it still have backfiring under 3000 rpm and also the engine break isn't as strong as before...

any ideea?

 

The CO is set by adjusting (correcting) the fuel input.

 

Has your dealer reset the air bleeder to 0.5 turn? 1.5 is to much in my opinion, leading to a poor mixture at small throtle openings (at bigger openings it has less effect), and a poor mixture may lead to backfire. So I 'd check the air bleeder screws.

 

Another cause may be unbalance. A bigger throttle opening on one side may lead to a leaner mixure at that side since the fuel quantities are equal.

 

I have been fighting this myselve. It is pretty much allright now, but I still like to keep it running over 3000 rpm, although some situations make me go lower in revs.

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The CO is set by adjusting (correcting) the fuel input.

 

Has your dealer reset the air bleeder to 0.5 turn? 1.5 is to much in my opinion, leading to a poor mixture at small throtle openings (at bigger openings it has less effect), and a poor mixture may lead to backfire. So I 'd check the air bleeder screws.

 

Another cause may be unbalance. A bigger throttle opening on one side may lead to a leaner mixure at that side since the fuel quantities are equal.

 

I have been fighting this myselve. It is pretty much allright now, but I still like to keep it running over 3000 rpm, although some situations make me go lower in revs.

Yes they told me the same about the air screws and they put them to 0.5 I have done the balancing before but I'll check again. I was thinking that it could be maybe because the air flow is still big and may lead to an excesive heating and not closing well the intake valve. I have checked the sparkles and they look ok. Perhaps a power commander will help?

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