Jump to content

Removing bar ends (equalizers)


rageman

Recommended Posts

I'm sorry this is my first post - I swear I searched, but I haven't quite figured out how to get decent results with the engine here.

 

I am looking to replace my bar ends (equalizers, the manual calls them) with weighted versions to reduce vibrations, but mine seem to be on there more than tight. The manual calls for removing all the controls before the ends, but I don't see why that is necessary. However, when I try to get the end off, it twists the grip/controls on that side. Anyone else run into this? Hit it with the impact gun?

 

Thanks in advance for any advice. And thanks to this site already - this is where I got the most info before my purchase this past weekend (and already found Pyro Dan for a replacement brake light switch. You just can't beat $5!). Bike in question is a 2001 v11 sport (just 5k mi). Pic for your efforts -

 

MG_8-14-10.jpg

 

Sean

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Beautiful Sport!

 

The bar ends are already weighted. They extend well up into the clip-on. Drizzle some penetrating oil at their junction with the bar under the grip. After waiting a day, grasp the bar tightly and snap the hex drive smartly, or otherwise , yes, you could use an impact driver (still grasping the grip tightly). Upon reassembly, use some anti-seize paste for next time.

 

There are a few other ways to quell the vibes . . .

 

Jeez, what a cherry sport! Thanks for the pic!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It looked like they extended pretty far into the bar from the manual; I would still like to give the weights a try and see where it gets me. I think I'll see about that impact tomorrow - I'll post what I find.

 

Thanks for the comments on the bike. For mods, it has a Mistral exhaust and the airbox has been deleted. Not sure about a tune just yet...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm sorry this is my first post - I swear I searched, but I haven't quite figured out how to get decent results with the engine here.

 

I am looking to replace my bar ends (equalizers, the manual calls them) with weighted versions to reduce vibrations, but mine seem to be on there more than tight. The manual calls for removing all the controls before the ends, but I don't see why that is necessary. However, when I try to get the end off, it twists the grip/controls on that side. Anyone else run into this? Hit it with the impact gun?

 

Thanks in advance for any advice. And thanks to this site already - this is where I got the most info before my purchase this past weekend (and already found Pyro Dan for a replacement brake light switch. You just can't beat $5!). Bike in question is a 2001 v11 sport (just 5k mi). Pic for your efforts -

 

Sean

 

Beautiful bike.

The previous owner put K&N filters on as I have just done, I love the open frame look.

The vibration shouldn't be too noticeable, perhaps the throttle bodies are out of sync. Some guru please comment.

See that big wire loom that loops under the seat release key if you snip off the ties you can move it up under the tank and seat out of sight, you don't have to disconnect anything just loop the surplus wire under the tank where the air box used to be.

Enjoy your new Italian Girlfriend.

Roy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Congrat's on your new bike and welcome to the forum!

 

There's no need to remove the controls or the grips to get the bar end weights off. You need to prevent the black end weight from rotating as you unscrew the cap screw from the end of the bar. I ended up wrapping one of mine with duct tape then grabbing it with a large pair of channel lock pliers because I didn't have a strap wrench handy. The screws in my bar ends were either loctited or corroded in place and it took a lot of force to break them free. Once you get the end weight off there will be a hex head piece (22mm?) screwed into the end of the bar. Unscrew that and the rest of the assembly will pull out of the bar. Be careful not to lose the little dowel pins when you unscrew the hex piece.

 

I'm no guru but I agree with Roy, out of sync throttle bodies will increase vibration. That said, heavier bar ends work great too. I got mine from Moto International.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Congrat's on your new bike and welcome to the forum!

 

There's no need to remove the controls or the grips to get the bar end weights off. You need to prevent the black end weight from rotating as you unscrew the cap screw from the end of the bar. I ended up wrapping one of mine with duct tape then grabbing it with a large pair of channel lock pliers because I didn't have a strap wrench handy. The screws in my bar ends were either loctited or corroded in place and it took a lot of force to break them free. Once you get the end weight off there will be a hex head piece (22mm?) screwed into the end of the bar. Unscrew that and the rest of the assembly will pull out of the bar. Be careful not to lose the little dowel pins when you unscrew the hex piece.

 

I'm no guru but I agree with Roy, out of sync throttle bodies will increase vibration. That said, heavier bar ends work great too. I got mine from Moto International.

 

Thanks for all the welcomes; I'm looking forward to spending time here.

 

I think the v11 sport ends are a bit different - they are one long piece that threads into the bar (if I am seeing the schematic correctly). There is a rubber cap that comes off, then a hex hole for unscrewing it. I'll take pics once I get it out.

 

I should have a look at the sync on the TBs. I read through the FAQs and how-to's; it doesn't sound to tough. PO already has rubber hose on those ports so I suspect he kept up with this for the most part. He was great about maintenance and documentation - very meticulous.

 

@Roy - thanks for the wiring tip! I think I'll give that a shot

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had the same vibration issue with my 2000 v11 and was told these bikes arnt run in or settled down till they have done about 20oooks.This proved to be right as the more ks I put on this bike it has significatly. improved .So theres only one way to fix the problem,GET RIDING.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2001 endweights are different. They are in one piece and unscrews as one with the hex.

And they stick. I have tried to get my left one out for three years now, no Napoleon mirrors for me.

 

And they are also quite heavy, so it will take a substantial replacement to make a difference.

You'll get used to the vibes and the exciting "hands of a stranger"-syndrome that goes with the bike :-)

 

As Warren Zevon put it: I'd rather feel bad than not feel anything at all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2001 endweights are different. They are in one piece and unscrews as one with the hex.

And they stick. I have tried to get my left one out for three years now, no Napoleon mirrors for me.

 

And they are also quite heavy, so it will take a substantial replacement to make a difference.

You'll get used to the vibes and the exciting "hands of a stranger"-syndrome that goes with the bike :-)

 

As Warren Zevon put it: I'd rather feel bad than not feel anything at all.

 

" I'm gonna hurl myself against the wall . . .":grin:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haven't gotten to this just yet - had to replace the brake switch and oil cooler brackets (one was cracked all the way through). 7 out of 8 of those bolts came out easy; the 8th stripped and I had to get medieval on it. I was the winner (this time), but I do need a new bolt :bbblll:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Every bolt I put back into the Sport I at least wire brush the threads, if not chase them with a die, and apply copper anti-seize paste.

 

It just keeps getting better!

 

Early oil cooler brackets were aluminium. The warranty replacements were steel and I've never heard of those breaking. What came off broken? (It could be an indication how much warranty sorting your V11 has had) . . .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Every bolt I put back into the Sport I at least wire brush the threads, if not chase them with a die, and apply copper anti-seize paste.

 

It just keeps getting better!

 

Early oil cooler brackets were aluminium. The warranty replacements were steel and I've never heard of those breaking. What came off broken? (It could be an indication how much warranty sorting your V11 has had) . . .

 

These were aluminum. The right side had sheared top and bottom at similar locations. I don't think this one saw much warranty work, although I know the relays were updated and the transmission recall was done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fold back the grip and apply penetrating oil and let soak. Any effort to twist off the holding screw has to be held against on the grip itself as the is a junction which would allow the tubular portion of the grip to rotate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...