Mike Stewart Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 I love it when a mystery is solved! Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velf 2003 Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 I love it when a mystery is solved! Mike Since maintenance (replacing oil + filter) is due, I`ll check if perhaps this is the matter with my beloved V11 aswell. And taking off the ofp after some 55000 km`s isn`t an interval one should be concernd about, hihihi. To be continued... Velf2003 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 A person needs to inspect the filter mating surface to make sure the old filter seal does not stick to the engine... I do this every time. After losing the oil and it spraying everywhere you will learn to do a visual to make sure you are screwing the filter to the block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velf 2003 Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 I yesterday removed the oil sump (again) and took off the the oil filter holder. I was hoping to find a broken gasket but all was fine. Dissembled the OPRV hoping to find something that kept the valve open, but all was clean. I had no means to test it so but it back together. Next I replaced the 4 o-rings to the oil cooler. they seemed a bit flat, and the new ones seemed to be more tight. I was hooping this would solve the problem. Since right now I couldn't find anything else, I was about to refit the filter holder. But first gave it a visual 'inspection'. By pure coincidence I noticed a rubber ring between the filter holder and the filter that appeared broken. Took the filter off and there it was: Half of the rubber ring of the old filter was still there, as you can see on the picture. I clearly hadn't checked or noticed it when replacing the old filter two weeks ago. Put it all together again, now also with recommended hose clamp on the filter. I only haven't tested the pressure jet, cause I still need to get the oil in the engine from a small bowl without making a mesh. But I'm quite sure the problem is found and fixed. If not, I'll let you know... Thanks What t.. F...!! I did an inspection today, as a part of the anual winter check and maintenance round. Removed the oil sump, suspecting to find a hint or solution as to why my oil light came on under 2500 revs, when warm. No clues to find there.... Ah well, just spanner-along. And then when (trying) to remove the old oil filter...... Something odd took place. Normally the old oil filter, once a bit loosened, can be further unscrewed by hand. Not this time though. So unscrewing it further with the apropriate tool, the filter came off and reveilled a somewhat desintegreted rubber ring on the mating surface of the filter. Could this be the cause of the funny light saying oil in the dash? Ok, change filter with a new one. Carefully tighten it to the specified torque. Put back on the oil sump, fill with oil. Start. Rev some more... No funny light saying oil anymore in the dash!! Now, I realise that this half an hour (on the standard in the garage...) dry driving isn`t representative for normal use. But the oil was surely hot, and the oil cooler was more than handwarm too. And since the outcome of Vuzzi`s quest is more or less the same I`m pretty sure that I had a somewhat same problem: a faulty rubber o-ring on the oil filter. To be continues when wheather conditions give a good reason to take Wakatanka out for a ride. Yes, I beginning to grasp a hold of what my V11 is to me. And is has gotten a name: Wakatanka. Google will be more than happy to inform you as to where my thoughts whent when givvin the bike its name. When in doubt why the bike is called this: don`t ask. Its the old adagium: when you have to ask, you havent understood it. Greeting from the old 2011, already peering at the new 2012: Velf2003, keeper of Wakatanka. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slavomir Musilek (R.I.P.) Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 I yesterday removed the oil sump (again) and took off the the oil filter holder. I was hoping to find a broken gasket but all was fine. Dissembled the OPRV hoping to find something that kept the valve open, but all was clean. I had no means to test it so but it back together. Next I replaced the 4 o-rings to the oil cooler. they seemed a bit flat, and the new ones seemed to be more tight. I was hooping this would solve the problem. Since right now I couldn't find anything else, I was about to refit the filter holder. But first gave it a visual 'inspection'. By pure coincidence I noticed a rubber ring between the filter holder and the filter that appeared broken. Took the filter off and there it was: Half of the rubber ring of the old filter was still there, as you can see on the picture. I clearly hadn't checked or noticed it when replacing the old filter two weeks ago. Put it all together again, now also with recommended hose clamp on the filter. I only haven't tested the pressure jet, cause I still need to get the oil in the engine from a small bowl without making a mesh. But I'm quite sure the problem is found and fixed. If not, I'll let you know... Thanks What t.. F...!! I did an inspection today, as a part of the anual winter check and maintenance round. Removed the oil sump, suspecting to find a hint or solution as to why my oil light came on under 2500 revs, when warm. No clues to find there.... Ah well, just spanner-along. And then when (trying) to remove the old oil filter...... Something odd took place. Normally the old oil filter, once a bit loosened, can be further unscrewed by hand. Not this time though. So unscrewing it further with the apropriate tool, the filter came off and reveilled a somewhat desintegreted rubber ring on the mating surface of the filter. Could this be the cause of the funny light saying oil in the dash? Ok, change filter with a new one. Carefully tighten it to the specified torque. Put back on the oil sump, fill with oil. Start. Rev some more... No funny light saying oil anymore in the dash!! Now, I realise that this half an hour (on the standard in the garage...) dry driving isn`t representative for normal use. But the oil was surely hot, and the oil cooler was more than handwarm too. And since the outcome of Vuzzi`s quest is more or less the same I`m pretty sure that I had a somewhat same problem: a faulty rubber o-ring on the oil filter. I had the same issue on my V11 - rubber ring on UFI oil filter was somehow old or ill - there were visible small bubbles in it once taken out. The oil pressure was close to 0,5 bar at idle revs. Once rpm rised it went to about 1 bar - not enough at all. I dismantled complete oil pan, spent hours on looking for the bug just to find that the rubber ring was broken. Careful on those things next time cheers Slavek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 Yes, I beginning to grasp a hold of what my V11 is to me. And is has gotten a name: Wakatanka. Google will be more than happy to inform you as to where my thoughts whent when givvin the bike its name. When in doubt why the bike is called this: don`t ask. Its the old adagium: when you have to ask, you havent understood it. Greeting from the old 2011, already peering at the new 2012: Velf2003, keeper of Wakatanka. http://www.wakantanka.com/ Sorry, you've lost me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 I think he is ( I hope) misspelling the word....... How 'bout Wakan Tanka ? http://www.themystica.com/mythical-folk/~articles/w/wakan_tanka.html My bike tends to make me more asthetic than a nut with a nail gun poking holes in MY phallus or any other place on me....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velf 2003 Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 I think he is ( I hope) misspelling the word....... How 'bout Wakan Tanka ? http://www.themystica.com/mythical-folk/~articles/w/wakan_tanka.html My bike tends to make me more asthetic than a nut with a nail gun poking holes in MY phallus or any other place on me....... Both Kiwi Roy and you are right AND wrong. It is true that the spelling of the givven name can be misinterpretated for a piercing shop (didn`t see that one comming, hahaha) and yes, is it based on the Sioux name Wakan Tanka: Wakan Tanka is the Sioux name for the Great Spirit or Great Mystery. Wakan Tanka is thought of the creator of the world or universe; believed to be the All-Providing One. This Spirit is paid reverence as providing for the needs of everyone. This reverence is displayed when the people honor the four directions, the Sun, Mother Earth, and their fellow man because these are Wakan Tanka's creation; when honoring them, people honor the spirit of Wakan Tanka which resides within each of them. The American Native does not attempt to describe this Great Power that Created All because "it is a Mystery," they advise, "leave it alone; no one describe such a vast mystery." Since it is traditional for the American Indian people not to argue over religious concepts, considering such arguments foolish, they invite everyone, especially the rainbow people, to join them, each in their own way and expression, in the reverence of Wakan Tanka. BUT: Since I have my own unique way of doing things (most people do...) I named it nothing more, nothing less than Wakatanka. Greetings, Velf2003 keeper of Wakatanka. p.s. Does anyone ever seen the Wakan motorcycle? (http://thekneeslider.com/archives/2006/07/18/wakan-1640-new-french-v-twin-motorcycle/) Its name is also based on the same Sioux word I`ve used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bello Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 I'm resurrecting this thread because today at noon my '04 LeMans displayed the same behavior: oil pressure light lit up at low rpms with a fully warm engine in warm ambient temps (86F=30C). And this is within 100 miles of my last oil and filter change. I guess I have to go back in there again and see if the oil filter o-ring is a problem on mine. That would be a cheap fix, if that's the case. Oddly enough, I had a similar problem recently on my 2013 F-150 pickup truck. It's still under warranty, so I've been letting the dealer do the service. I was in there about 2 weeks ago for a service at about 25K miles. When I got it home, I noticed oil streaks on the concrete of my driveway, and I traced it to the Ford. I took it back into the service dept at the dealer. In this case the rubber washer on the old filter had torn when it was unscrewed, and part of the washer had stayed attached to the motor. Then the techie (and I use that term loosely) screwed the new filter over top of it. Poor seal, and occasionally big leaks. On the bike, I'd much rather replace the filter than the oil pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luhbo Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 I know this from mine, too. Hot ambient leads to hot oil and above that the idle goes down also. I don't worry as long as the light goes out the moment I touch the throttle. I would say that's just normal. You use 20W60? Hubert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 I'm resurrecting this thread because today at noon my '04 LeMans displayed the same behavior: oil pressure light lit up at low rpms with a fully warm engine in warm ambient temps (86F=30C). And this is within 100 miles of my last oil and filter change. I guess I have to go back in there again and see if the oil filter o-ring is a problem on mine. That would be a cheap fix, if that's the case. Oddly enough, I had a similar problem recently on my 2013 F-150 pickup truck. It's still under warranty, so I've been letting the dealer do the service. I was in there about 2 weeks ago for a service at about 25K miles. When I got it home, I noticed oil streaks on the concrete of my driveway, and I traced it to the Ford. I took it back into the service dept at the dealer. In this case the rubber washer on the old filter had torn when it was unscrewed, and part of the washer had stayed attached to the motor. Then the techie (and I use that term loosely) screwed the new filter over top of it. Poor seal, and occasionally big leaks. On the bike, I'd much rather replace the filter than the oil pump. Uhhhh , you ned to hook up a manual gauge to this before something expen$ive happens . Remove the sender and take it to a good auto parts store and buy a manual gauge with an adapter to fit your sender . Then reassemble it and start it up to see what hot idle pressure is . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 All good advice to be sure of your actual oil pressure, use thick enough oil viscosity, and do not ignore the warning light. Be certain the oil level is FULL. Be aware that your tachometer may not be showing the actual idle rpm by 300-500 rpm. That could have you trying to idle at well under 1000 rpm and the oil pressure will not be happy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bello Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 Gents, thanks for the responses. Since I did just change the oil and filter, I do plan to start with that. That was my first time changing the oil on this bike, so it's possible that I didn't do it absolutely correctly. If that doesn't help, I'll keep looking. I've always thought that a low oil pressure message was the scariest info you can get, worthy of shutting the bike down immediately. In other words, not to be trifled with. Regarding oil weight, I put in 4T 5W40 Full Synthetic. Since Agip is not to be had here in the sticks, I used a BMW branded oil which is made by Castrol. That was pretty much the spec called for in the manual. Should I be running something thicker? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwh20 Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 5W40 Full Synthetic The owners and shop manuals call for 20W50 and some here suggest even heavier especially if you live in an area where it's hot. Some have expressed concern about using fully synthetic oil as having a greater tendency to leak on some engines but I believe it's generally better for the engine than mineral-based oils. I just recently changed the oil on my "new-to-me" 2002 LeMans and I ended up using some Castrol semi-synthetic 20W50 that I found on sale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bello Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 5W40 Full Synthetic The owners and shop manuals call for 20W50 and some here suggest even heavier especially if you live in an area where it's hot. Some have expressed concern about using fully synthetic oil as having a greater tendency to leak on some engines but I believe it's generally better for the engine than mineral-based oils. I just recently changed the oil on my "new-to-me" 2002 LeMans and I ended up using some Castrol semi-synthetic 20W50 that I found on sale. Now you're gonna send me back to the owner's manual, which is at home, to see what it specifies. I was pretty sure it called for 5W40, although it suggested a couple of other weight oils that were OK. I've had BMWs for many years, and they generally call for 20W50, but I don't think that's what the LeMans manual said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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