thebronze Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 Has anyone done this before? The manual mentions using a flywheel lock tool to lock the crank and then remove the rotor and stator. I'm trying to do this with the motor in the bike and a minimum of tools. But it looks like the frame bolts up to the motor right by the cover. Do you have to drop the motor to do this? Ive a bit of an oil leak coming out of it and theres some silicone bodge work to seal it up. I'd rather start with a clean gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 Has anyone done this before? The manual mentions using a flywheel lock tool to lock the crank and then remove the rotor and stator. I'm trying to do this with the motor in the bike and a minimum of tools. But it looks like the frame bolts up to the motor right by the cover. Do you have to drop the motor to do this? Ive a bit of an oil leak coming out of it and theres some silicone bodge work to seal it up. I'd rather start with a clean gasket. No, the motor will stay in place when you remove the two large bolts, I just replaced my timing chain and tensioner. The alternator nut should come off without a problem, if you need to lock up the motor you can put in top gear and apply the foot brake. Good Luck with the leak Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luhbo Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 For Roy many things are working somehow differently I suppose. Remove the two bolts and the engine will find it rather heavy to hide its true weight. It won't fall down, there are other bolts at the other end of the block, but surely some sort of jack will do the whole system a big favour. Hubert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebronze Posted September 10, 2012 Author Share Posted September 10, 2012 No, the motor will stay in place when you remove the two large bolts, I just replaced my timing chain and tensioner. The alternator nut should come off without a problem, if you need to lock up the motor you can put in top gear and apply the foot brake. Good Luck with the leak Roy Roy, i'll put a jack under the motor just to be safe. Are any special tools required to remove the rotor or stator? I dont have air tools at the moment but I can put the engine in gear and lock the back brake to keep motor from spinning while unscrewing the rotor bolt. Should I replace or address any other issues while in there? Do the stator wires need cleaning or replacing? Thanks, Toby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 Yes a jack is probably good insurance, perhaps I'm just lucky No special tools, if I recall the rotor popped off quite easy but if you need to use a puller you could pull the stator off first, don't loose the key. Store the rotor inside the stator once you get it off helpd protect the magnets. Inspect the joint where the wires solder to the stator, one of mine was hanging by just a strand or two. If the joint is bad you will likely need to replace the wires because they will be corroded and impossible to re-solder. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17473 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guzzi2Go Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 Has anyone done this before? The manual mentions using a flywheel lock tool to lock the crank and then remove the rotor and stator. You can try by removing the rubber plug on the right side of the engine, sticking in a really large flat screwdriver between the teeth and the housing, thus locking the flywheel against the housing. I managed to undo mine the other day, without any visible damage. Just beware, this is not an official procedure. May backfire! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebronze Posted October 8, 2012 Author Share Posted October 8, 2012 4 year oil leak fixed! The top part of the timing cover gasket had dropped down below the casing during installation and wasnt sealing. Replaced it with a new one and should be tight now. While I was in there, I noticed my alternator stator was really dirty. I dont like the looks of black and green coil windings. I cleaned the sh1t out of it but i'm a little worried about this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebronze Posted October 8, 2012 Author Share Posted October 8, 2012 clean version Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebronze Posted October 8, 2012 Author Share Posted October 8, 2012 OH yeah, anyone know the torque setting for the rotor nut? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted October 8, 2012 Share Posted October 8, 2012 Tighten it till it strips then back it off a quarter turn Just joking I just tightened mine as much as I could with a short ring spanner, it's not like it has to hold anything real important. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebronze Posted October 9, 2012 Author Share Posted October 9, 2012 Electrex has a stator that looks like it will fit the v11 series. Has anyone used one of these before? Cost $160 + shipping, a lot cheaper than the factory part. LINK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gottagetone Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 Looks like I get to give this a go, I just got home and my small leak around the timing cover seal left oil all over the side of my block....not good. As I read this, the procedure is pretty straight forward??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 Just read this thread. Hylomar works great on the new gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gottagetone Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 Thebronze, what did you use to clean the alternator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 This thread is a few years old - so maybe we shouldn't expect a response from thebronze. My Scura started leaking on the LH side of the timing cover. I've got a new gasket (and dressing) on hand, awaiting the appropriate time to install. I temporarily stopped the leak by forcing high-temp black silicone into the affected area and by re-torquing all the fasteners. Silicone is a bit sloppy and not the ideal way to fix this, but in my case, I don't care because the engine paint already looks like crap and I plan to repaint it soon (bubbling 2002 paint). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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