richiem Posted April 28, 2013 Share Posted April 28, 2013 Well thank god for this website and tha advice offered. I managed to replace the pawl spring with the help of a mate with more mechanical nouse than I. It was a little more complicated than I thought it was going to be. Although I havent started it up yet because I am going in search of some redline oil it seems to select and go into neutral ok. Any how the problem is that when I was removing the cover I convinced myself that it was necessary to remove not only the 11 allen bolts but also the two 13mm nuts on the face of the cover which appeared to be mounted on studs. of course it was not needed but the problem is one of the nuts appears to turn a pin on an eccentric adjuster on the inside of the casing. So this has now been moved from it origional position. Could anyone tell me what this does and what likely effect moving it would have ? Maybe then I can figure out how to return it to a correct position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyH Posted April 28, 2013 Share Posted April 28, 2013 Welcome to, very probably, the best bike forum there is! It's saved me a fortune in just over a year that I've been a member. I'll be following the responses to this, cos I've been trying to work out how to set that eccentric bolt before I have to dive into the 'box myself. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vuzzi Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 The eccentric adjuster sets the distance the ratchet can move from the selector wheel. The ratchet is captured between the selector and the adjuster. If the eccentric adjuster is too tight, the ratchet won't be able to move down after rotating the selector when shifting up. If it's too loose I'm not sure what may happen, as the spring will keep the ratchet on the selector wheel. My guess is shifting will be less smooth. The best way to set the eccentric adjuster is probably to remove the cover. Then see how much play there is if the ratchet moves back from the upward position (when simulating gear shifting [up] by hand). When shifting up, the ratchet moves towards the eccentric adjuster whem going down again. Rotate the eccentric adjuster to have a small gap (app. 1 mm?) at the point where the ratchet is closest to the eccentric adjuster. If you don't want to remove the cover, it may work when you turn the eccentric adjuster counter clockwise up to a point the gear change lever won't move down after shifting up. From that point you rotate the eccentric adjuster clockwise, untill it moves down freely agian (and maybe a bit more). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyH Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 Pretty concise description and instructions, thanks vuzzi. I'll print them out for later use. Been wanting to know what the eccentric does for some time. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richiem Posted April 29, 2013 Author Share Posted April 29, 2013 Thanks very much for the prompt post. Very helpful. I'll get on to it tomorrow. Can't face taking the cover off again but hopfully I can adjust it in situ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vuzzi Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 here you can see the eccentric adjuster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotoguzzi Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 is there a link to the fix with pics? sure would be nice to stash a hard copy under my seat with the spare spring I carry.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tikkanen Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 Howdy, if you are talking broken pawl spring there a thead on the FAQ. BFG has posted a roadside repair DIY which is ace. Have suffered from broken pawl spring twice so I know how it feels to bimble home in 2. or 4 gear respectively... The thread is here http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16872&do=findComment&comment=180745 Cheers Søren 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotoguzzi Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 thx but a lot of the pics no longer show up.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sullvarni Posted September 19, 2013 Share Posted September 19, 2013 OK here's the thing I'm not much of a Mechanic on engine internals and i inquired in an earlier post on the dreaded pawl spring issue which i thought i had "IE" wont' shift...but when i pulled the Gear Box side plate off and checked the Pawl Spring it appears to be OK. I see in the Pawl Spring fix posts that the bike has to be in neutral when reassembling...as i don't have a clue what I'm looking at in the Gear Box "IE" Gears,Fork shifters or whatever there called and all the stuff on the side plate...can anyone explain in layman's terms one...how to find or get the bike in neutral and if It's not the Pawl Spring issue what else might it be...i realize it could be all kinds of things but an estimated guess from one of the Guzzi Gurus will surfice,thanks in advance. PS. I'd take it to a Guz dealership if on was near...700 miles is my closest...some local bike stores...but wont' even look at my Guz. Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted September 19, 2013 Share Posted September 19, 2013 Was the shift lever pivot bolt rusty when you removed it. If so , that ws your problem. If it is rusty , the shift lever will hang down when 1st gear is selected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sullvarni Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 No rust their and thanks for your reply...for someone who's mechanically challenged i figured it out with a little help from a friend...got it in neutral and set the gears on the side plate with the two dots strait up and down which i believe is correct for putting the side plate back on..."Yes". Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom M Posted September 20, 2013 Share Posted September 20, 2013 It sounds like you got it right Stu. I've replaced my pawl spring three times now. Huge thanks to V11Lemans.com, BelfastGuzzi, and KB for the instructions The first time I had a hard time getting the shifter plate back on the tranny because I didn't know how to postion the shifter forks inside the trans case to select neutral. Eventually I found that I needed to move each of the forks (the four pins that face you when looking in the trans) to the center of their travel on their shafts. By that I mean if each fork/pin slides laterally on it's shaft from left to right about 2" I would set them 1" from the end of their travel. That wasn't apparent in the instructions that I was using.Once I did that, and since I already had the shifter plate in it's neutral position, everything easily bolted back together and worked fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sullvarni Posted September 21, 2013 Share Posted September 21, 2013 I put it all back together today and alas when i was done it appears to be in gear "F#*K^#G BUN of a SICH" don't know where i screwed up but I'm done with it for now...the snow will be flying soon enough here in Northern British Columbia so will just have to get by with my KLR till the end of the riding season...there's one good thing about all this It's going to be a low KLM bike if i ever sell it"LOL". Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted September 21, 2013 Share Posted September 21, 2013 The good thing about the snow flying: it's a great time to look back inside that side cover! This will just be a simple click this way or that! Then: you'll be An Expert! (Here, I thought the dots were to point 'at' one another / "align", but it's been a while since I've had my eyes on it . . .) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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