czakky Posted April 10, 2014 Author Share Posted April 10, 2014 I read air temp sensor yesterday cold and of course It read at around 115 in the 2k range. I'll try that resistor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share Posted April 13, 2014 Could I have damaged my multimeter? Everything on K_Roy's ECU test point chart is reading around 115-150 ohm's... Sooo confused with this now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 Maybe a fresh battery in the multi-meter for those resistance tests? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted April 15, 2014 Author Share Posted April 15, 2014 Fresh 9 volt in the multimeter still getting weird readings... Anyway, Kiwi_Roy had very kindly sent me a "thermistor" (the resistor that is used for the air temp sensor). Got it rigged using some very high-brow Polish engineering (don't get upset my last name is Jaszczak) and still suffering the same symptoms. So all I've got left is to check the ECU voltage and then pull these injectors. Any other ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 It's hard to imagine it doesn't have something to do with your last round of maintenance and repair of the front seal Like something didn't get plugged back up right. You had the crank sensor off? You are certain your replacement O-ring did not change the seating (which affects the timing)? You did refit the thin spacer fitted to it without changing its thickness? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moto fugazzi Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 Docc has a great point with the crank sensor. Make sure it's clean, and has the correct gap, otherwise it will mess up your timing. Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 Time for a new multimeter I think, it doesn't have to be an expensive one, $10 - $20 for a digital. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted April 15, 2014 Author Share Posted April 15, 2014 Yea, I have checked the timing sensors gap and it looks good. I've never measured it but the spacer is flat and the o ring isn't protruding. Anybody know what the thickness of the spacer is supposed to be? I do need to pull it out ... Once again, still leaking? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted April 15, 2014 Author Share Posted April 15, 2014 Not sure if this works or will give any clues but I took a quick vid last night. Note the revs hanging just above idle. This is after it's been warmed up, http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=H3N3I8K8h50 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mznyc Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 Did you check TB boots for cracks? Headers and exhaust connections? A/F balance will cause these symptoms.So an air leak, or incorrect info to ECU (sensor or ECU. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted April 15, 2014 Author Share Posted April 15, 2014 Yea I checked the boots. Checked/replaced the air temp sensor. My exhaust does have small leaks at the connections but it's never been a problem before.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mznyc Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 Yea I checked the boots. Checked/replaced the air temp sensor. My exhaust does have small leaks at the connections but it's never been a problem before.... Back of the boots too?Any small crack will mess you up.Make sure those seals are tight at the exhaust.Copper paste is a good sealant.Header flanges are known to fail and leak.We're all gonna go,"Doh!" when you find it,it's usually something stupid and small,.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted April 15, 2014 Author Share Posted April 15, 2014 Yeah Mzync, I had sprayed wd-40 pretty liberally all over both the boots all around and the airbox connection while idling looking for a change in idle... nothing. I guess I could try the unlit propane torch trick when warm maybe those boots expand when hot?? I always wondered if copper paste would work for that. Really hoping it's something stupid and small. Thanks for the words of encouragement. By the way if it's something real stupid and small rest assured you probably never hear about it.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 By the way if it's something real stupid and small rest assured you probably never hear about it.... Sure, none of US have done anything like that . . . If you get caught at fixing your V11 without posting the results, you will not be banned from the forum. They make you a moderator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted April 19, 2014 Author Share Posted April 19, 2014 Went back ove everything I had done and couldn't really find anything obvious. I still have some testing that kiwi Roy had recommended. otherwise I have two theories, please tell me it's paranoia... First is that if when I had changed my front crank seal ( without removing the timing cover) that even though I was extremely delicate I could've knocked a piece of the collar of the cover into the oil system..... God I hope not! The other theory is that my fuel pump is just been over stressed for too long ( makin weird sounds every now and then) it gives up the ghost when hot....? Just throwing it out there let me know if you guys thinkeither of these are plausible. Tomorrow I'll test her out then onto the electric testing k-Roy recommended.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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