Bjorn Posted May 12, 2014 Author Share Posted May 12, 2014 congrats on a job well done. I reckon it all made sense once you got in there with it. Yeah just like you said, its not very difficult but you just have to start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bjorn Posted May 17, 2014 Author Share Posted May 17, 2014 Alright bad news, i found traces of oil on the outputshaft seal again.... This bike is really pushing it. Never needed to wrench/repair so much on a almost stock bike. Getting to the point of stashing it away and just ride my old yamaha since its way more reliable then the guzzi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bjorn Posted November 19, 2014 Author Share Posted November 19, 2014 Alright This topic will het a follow-up: Since the last post the bike behaved itself quite well. We (bike now belongs to my l. brother) took the bike on a long holiday and tie-wrapped a piece of polyester foam around the u-joint guard. This absorbed all the oil and was quite a succesfull but temporary fix. Now the temperatures are dropping and the riding season is coming to an end. My brother asked me to fix this weak spot. The plan is to remove the gearbox, take it to the dealer. They will polish the protruding part of the Axel and rebuilt the box including a new seal. I will start this week and will try to shoot some pics along the way. I remember a topic with pics were the box was removed by "crabbing" the frame and engine. Updates follow soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 Just be aware that Crabbing the Spine Frame is a Pete Roper technique, often imitated, and (for safety's sake) should only be performed with the assistance of Colin, the rubber chicken, or one his brethren. Digitally remastered sketch here. Looking at the (low res) photo a couple posts down, I see the left porkchop is still in place. I have no idea why. Pete posted it's easiest to take them off. Just be sure to note the depth of the mounting pins before they are in the parts tray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bjorn Posted November 20, 2014 Author Share Posted November 20, 2014 Thans for the link Doc! And i have worked on the swingarm before Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bjorn Posted November 20, 2014 Author Share Posted November 20, 2014 Just found this picture in my guzzi stack (not mine btw, found it here somewhere). Its handy to keep relevant info in this topic for future use. A practical question: Can you move the bike around when the gearbox is removed? Cant tell if the engine is supported well enough to move the bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 Seems there would be nothing to hold the engine from tipping downward. I suppose you could strap it to the spine above. Your picture does not show the engine tipped down at the rear, bringing the spine upward by loosening the forward mounts. I had thought this to be the action of the "crabbing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bjorn Posted November 20, 2014 Author Share Posted November 20, 2014 Yeah thats the plan! This is not a pic of my bike! I tend to lift the rear of the frame, keeping the front engine mounts bolted down tot act as a hinge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bjorn Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 Disassembly went pretty smooth. Only one bolt did not came out. The bolt in the swimgarm that holds the rear brake bracket in place. Weird thing is that i have removed this bolt less then 6 months ago..... (maybe forgot to apply some mounting paste??). Used a few straps in combination with a jack and a homemade wheel clamp to keep everything in balance. This worked quite well! did not need any extra hands. I knew that the clutch cylinder needed to be removed. After draining the fluid and trying to remove the hose, came to the conclusion this was not THE right way . I thought removing the cylinder was going to be messy, schematics showed some o-rings/seals were involved so i wasn't sure. Since I saw no other way I just unbolted it, came right of. Easy a that. Haven't looked into it, but i dont really see how the cylinder works. Looks like a magnet ? (no the engine/gearbox was not always this clean .......) I really took my time not to f*ck anything up during the disassembly. I only wanted to take parts off unless I had no other choice. One of the necessary parts was the throttle body connecting rod. This sucks (a bit) because I will need to re-synchronize everything afterwards. The main fuel line (looping between gearbox and frame) can stay in place! You just need to reposition while your shifting the gearbox rearwards. One last note about ''crabbing'' the engine and frame. I loosed the front engine bolts a bit to allow rotation. In the beginning I was unsure if the two bolts of the front engine bracket should remain in place or if one should be removed. Im talking about frame to bracket here. I decided to remove the most rearward bolt. See the large yellow Allen key in the picture. This worked perfectly. I had one of those small rattling straps to i could gently hoist the frame upwards. After loosening the engine to gearbox nuts, it pop'ed right of! Tuesday i will take the gearbox to the shop, see you soon 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bjorn Posted November 26, 2014 Author Share Posted November 26, 2014 next steps in the gearbox revision are quite easy: Take one gearbox, drop it in a crate. Put the crate in your car. Take care not to damage the spare tire!! Final step: hand over the gearbox, let the shop wave their magic in exchange for coins ......................... and take it back home Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bjorn Posted November 26, 2014 Author Share Posted November 26, 2014 In case everyone ever wondered how normal play of the drive shaft spline looks like..... I shot this video before removing the gearbox. The Guzzi workshop confirms this is normal play. He only advised to replace the two bolts (high tensile strength ie 12.9 grade) apply loctite and secure tightly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czakky Posted November 27, 2014 Share Posted November 27, 2014 Look's about right....(?) There is an article in this month's "Motorcyclist" that is about that very same thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bjorn Posted June 9, 2015 Author Share Posted June 9, 2015 This Godd*amm oilseal is not giving up We went on a 4 day trip to Germany, after the 3rd day I spotted oil weepings coming from the seal again. Thankfully did not screw up the trip but very disappointing non the less. Before calling the shop I want to ask: Are small oil weepings on this seal normal? should I accept this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 You do NOT want this kind of slack in this area . You want to tighten the pinch bolt tight enough to stop this movement . If you can't it will be time to replace the driveshaft yoke . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 You do NOT want this kind of slack in this area . You want to tighten the pinch bolt tight enough to stop this movement . If you can't it will be time to replace the driveshaft yoke . Agreed. The collar should not play on the shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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