kglm Posted October 20, 2016 Share Posted October 20, 2016 If you just fix leaking there no need remove axels: take off first cover , use 01912530 support tool and turn box , all axels stays in place second cover. -KG- 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted October 20, 2016 Author Share Posted October 20, 2016 Oh - now I understand. I assumed it would be easier to remove the small cover, but instead, it's easier to pull the larger case off. So I would need to remove the input hub (the part that mates to the clutch disc) - no special tool for that? The shop manual only describes a complete tear-down, not the minimum steps needed to fix a leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolf Halvorsen Posted October 20, 2016 Share Posted October 20, 2016 Yes I have a special tool for that removal as well. Rolf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy york Posted October 20, 2016 Share Posted October 20, 2016 i have most all of the factory tools (maybe all ) that you need . I am buried at work at the moment but would be happy to box them up Sat and have them ship to you. I will check on you guys tonight when I get home. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted October 20, 2016 Author Share Posted October 20, 2016 i have most all of the factory tools (maybe all ) that you need . I am buried at work at the moment but would be happy to box them up Sat and have them ship to you. I will check on you guys tonight when I get home. That would be great. PM sent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotoguzzi Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 Wow, good to see V11Lemans.com is alive and well.. lots of posts here in just one day and offers to share tools.. that's all great.. your leak, Bummer.. I'm less keen to get another V11 now tho and will inspect any prospects carefully.. wish I could get this one.. but don't have the dollars.. https://rmn.craigslist.org/mcy/5791179089.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 Still one of the greatest V11 vids ever, and perfect for this time of year: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VS9BtIUZ-Ss The kind of motivation it takes to get gearboxes back together! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy york Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 So ... let me get caught up A: tranny is out and the back cover is off B: Then the intermediate plate w/shafts was pulled out Unless you just want to disassemble the shafts there is really no reason to. Clean everything well, look at the inside of the case for cracks or a source for the leak. could be that it just plain ol lost its seal. A fastener could have been a little loose. anyway I use yamabond most of the time. you may want something that will set a little slower for the tranny cause its not gonna go back together lickity split. . just be sure and let the stuff cure for a day or overnight before you add lube. I can write a small dissertation on these things. So, rather than babble on, I will wait for more specific questions. I also have one apart in the shop if I need to get touchy feely with the thing. got your note and will touch base before shipping Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted October 21, 2016 Author Share Posted October 21, 2016 Thanks to everyone for all the help and discussion. Where else can you get advice from so many helpful and knowledgeable people? Norway to Nashville. Finland to Fotoguzzi. To Andy's questions: My tranny is out and 100% intact. Pictures in this thread during process are from people who were showing me how to take it apart. My plan of attack is: Degrease Strip paint (good riddance to wrinkle paint) Remove preselector (and rebuild) Remove rear cover Remove main case (shafts and gears stay with intermediate case). I think this is the only step where I will need a special tool to remove the input hub. Inspect for cracks/source of leak(s) - address if needed/possible Paint Reassemble with Threebond 1211 (it's equivalent to all the the other sealants that everyone likes, I already have a tube, and last, but by no means least.... I think I will be able to swear more profusely if I use what Pete recommends.) Carefully torque everything to spec (and be patient before adding lube and reinstalling on bike). I'll report findings/progress as events warrant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy york Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 Sounds like a plan to me. This is just me, but I would put in new seals( input and output), maybe there is an o-ring behind the input shaft hub, the star washer that goes on before the nut. Hate to go through all this and find out you nicked a seal. i will send input hub wrench, couple of sockets for hub nut. i have the tools to hold the case in vise and the intermediate plate in a vise also. will try and email some pics to ya. I don't seem to be smart enough to resize my pictures to fit here 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartyNZ Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 My plan of attack is: Degrease Strip paint (good riddance to wrinkle paint)7. Paint Can you powdercoat your gearbox? Is it realistic, and does it offer any advantage over paint? I have the same problem with bubbling paint and unattractive finish, but thought that powdercoat may be more durable. What made you select paint over powder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted October 21, 2016 Author Share Posted October 21, 2016 Tempting, and more durable, as powdercoating is - the problem is that the parts get sandblasted and baked at high temperature. That means every bearing and seal has to come out. So if you don't mind a total tear down, it's fine, but I am also going to strip and spray the engine case (without tear-down) and would like the cases to have exactly the same finish. I already powdercoated the alternator cover, swingarm, lower subframe, and driveshaft collars. Benefit of a parts bike is that you can send stuff off for powdercoating and keep it on the shelf till you're ready to install. Back to paint... I've been using VHT satin black engine case paint on my BMW. It gives a really nice finish, very close to the flat black powdercoat. For example, I sprayed this bell housing in place. The crank cover was powdercoated - and you can see how neglected it was when it followed me home. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted October 21, 2016 Author Share Posted October 21, 2016 Sounds like a plan to me. This is just me, but I would put in new seals( input and output), maybe there is an o-ring behind the input shaft hub, the star washer that goes on before the nut. Hate to go through all this and find out you nicked a seal. Good point. I will get those seals and see what other little bits might be needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hansson Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 Some tips.. 1: Don't lose the small washer that will sit at the end of the odometer transmission shaft. The arrow indicates where it should be, but you can't see it because it will probably remain in the gearbox housing. And don't forget to reassemble it! 2: Try to get the same (or similar) rotary shaft seals that sits originally fitted to the main shaft and the transmission shaft. I recommend (Corteco) Viton rotary shaft seals with a dust lip. Viton seals withstands high temperatures and will hopefully last longer. 3: When mounting the rotary shaft seal for the main shaft, be careful not to press it too deep, because then maybe it doesn't seal against the shaft. Note how the old it sits before you remove it! In my opinion, ThreeBond 1215 is the best sealant for works like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartyNZ Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 Threebond makes good automotive sealants, but 1211 is white and 1215 is grey. Either colour would hardly show against bare aluminum casings. However, black casings would look better sealed by a black sealant if you want to avoid an obvious split line. Threebond 1207B or Dow Corning 3-0100 are black. This will let you "cut down the visual clutter and focus on the large elemental shapes". (I still like that idea). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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