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Things to look for in a higher mileage bike.


activpop

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Looking at a 2001 Sport. It is a rider for the original owner, not a beauty queen. 50k on the clock. What should I be looking for on a well used machine. Not too many records to look at, but his mechanic is a good one and hope he would have caught all the usual suspects. IDK about clutch life, rubber tubing, etc. Gearbox brace...probably doesn't t have one, but at 50k has it proved its worth? Gearbox recall was dealt with. But at 50k it might need some love...and love costs money. :D

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50k in 23 years is hardly high mileage.  Will have spent a lot of time parked up.  Check fuel tank for ethanol damage, rear drive train especially the universal joint if not well maintained.  Age related stuff, the starter motor magnets can come loose if motor corrodes internally.

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  • activpop changed the title to Things to look for in a higher mileage bike.

It all depends on the color. :nerd:

Early Legnano Green Sports have all been thrashed to within a millimeter of their useful lives. <_<

Black RedFrame Sports have been kept in jewelry boxes with little more than an occasional dusting. B)

Silver Sports, now, are the Queens of the Realm and command a substantial premium (Mille Lire!/ five bucks). :sun:

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1 hour ago, 68C said:

50k in 23 years is hardly high mileage.  

I suppose I meant higher than my other bikes, since most of them are close to 10k or under. There might be some items of concern. Clutches and wheel bearings come to mind.

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2 minutes ago, activpop said:

I suppose I meant higher than my other bikes, since most of them are close to 10k or under. There might be some items of concern. Clutches and wheel bearings come to mind.

I finally did replace my clutch on the high side of 100,000 miles. It wasn't completely shot, but was getting there. Once again, though, I ride like a jackrabbit on hot lava and am hell on clutch/tires/brakes. At 50k? Clutch is likely a non-issue.

Wheel bearing (rear) wear can be a function of improper spacer length. Easily addressed. Even high quality wheel bearings (KOYO C3) are not that expensive.

Personally, I would be more concerned about "loving" a V11 that had been sitting up all this time.

It would be telling what kind of relays are under the seat and if the regulator case has been grounded. This could reveal just who the previous owner(s) have been listening to . . .

Do the Veglia instruments function and/or have been replaced?

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Does the engine start easily, run without thudding, & oil press light go out right away?

Is the oil on the dipstick clean?

Any oil leaks? The hardest to fix is a leak in the bevel box. Oil on the rear wheel rim is a bad sign.

Does the bevel box flop around on a collapsed needle roller between the box and axle on the RH side?

Gearbox leaks are also tricky to fix. The first sign of a crack on the gearbox casing top mount area can be oil leaking onto the crossover, but then slight overfilling will do that too. 

Does the charge light go off at idle? Is the green 30 amp fuse melted?

Are the tires older than 10 years? Any suspension upgrades since new?

Does it have a Roper Plate fitted?

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Hi, something that I found on the 2001 V11 I recently purchased was related to the two drain holes under the tank. One was completely blocked and took a while to clear out. The two rubber hoses were very hard, split and one had fallen off. I replaced them with new ones. As fuel could drain out of them, it would go onto the top of the engine which is why I mention it.

Cheers Jody

 

 

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Probably not relevant but check the fuel injecter linkage on the left side does not foul the rear suspension remote reservoir. 

On my second ride I gave it full throttle, then rolled off the throttle it would not shut off, going faster and faster I thought 'CLUTCH no may blow the motor, FRONT BRAKE no will probably lock up and crash...  then my scared mind suggested  KILL SWITCH!  First time I have used one in anger and it saved me.

Yes, the white adjuster knob was hung up on the reservoir union.  Slid the reservoir back half an inch and all well.

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One of the little bolts on the front brake switch is missing.

Starter button does not always come back when pushed in.

Measure the voltage (ca.14.0- 14.4V) when reving to 3500rpm (it does not guarantee the regulator is working properly but it gives an indication)

Tools still in the bag.

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Thank you all for that good stuff. Some of it I was aware of, but the overall knowledge of this group pointed me to other things I might not have considered. 

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I bought my Cafe Sport at 62000kms. First thing I did was give it some love. Stripped brakes including calipers, cleaned and reassembled. Serviced rear shock. New Wheel bearings (Cheap so may as well). New swing arm bearings. While it was off checked and greased the driveshaft (it was out of alignment so something to check). New plugs fuel and air filter. Engine Oil and filter. Gearbox and bevel box oil replacement. Valve clearances done. I then followed the "Decent Tune Up" guide here and it has been so reliable. The forks had been serviced prior to my purchase.

The only things that have subsequently failed are the starter motor (Became noisy so replaced it) and one relay so I changed the lot out as they are cheap. Its and easy bike to work on. The clutch is noisy, and I dread tackling that job. Doc's 100000 mile clutch replacement gives me confidence it will last for a while yet.

People who have ridden the bike say it rides like a new one. I wouldn't worry about 50000 miles. Just go over it taking note of what advice is in this thread. :)

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