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Posted

Evening all. Have had the cafe sport out a few times recently and it is cutting out when rolling off/braking and changing down when coming to a stop or round about. The battery has been on a trickle charger but im going to replace it as I dont know how old it is. The terminals are tight and it has had a recent service, including spark plugs and air filter and it did cut out before all that was done too.

Anyone any suggestions on where else to look?

The bike is fitted with the MG titanium exhausts and ecu, no crossover or open filters. Would fitting a crossover and open filters work with the ecu? 

Thanks

Posted

To get the best out of your machine, I would start here, TPS, Throttle balance, etc. . . —>
Decent Tune-Up

Then check Electrics, Ignition, charging system, relays. . . 

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks for the link, looks like i can do a couple of those myself, after that might need a professional or MG specialist which is difficult here in Northern Ireland where we dont even have a dealer. The valves, injection and calibration was all done about 800 miles ago, again before I got it but that could have been a few yrs ago now, it hasn't had much use.

The relays were replaced by a previous owner to Omron from motra tech, can get a look under the seat tomorrow 

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Pandamonium said:

Evening all. Have had the cafe sport out a few times recently and it is cutting out when rolling off/braking and changing down when coming to a stop or round about. The battery has been on a trickle charger but im going to replace it as I dont know how old it is. The terminals are tight and it has had a recent service, including spark plugs and air filter and it did cut out before all that was done too.

Anyone any suggestions on where else to look?

The bike is fitted with the MG titanium exhausts and ecu, no crossover or open filters. Would fitting a crossover and open filters work with the ecu? 

Thanks

Forget the crossover if you mean the std style on the headers near the cylinder heads and don't go anywhere near open filters or pods. Check the ignition switch wiring isn't dodgy by starting and idling the bike and turning the bars lock to lock and seeing if it stalls and the CO is set correct. The Titanium ecu is just a std ecu with a very slight mapping change up top so no issues there. Whats the idle set at? Some people seem to think a Vtwin should idle like an old ditch pump kerosene gimp engine. 

Phil

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
Posted

Thanks Phil, there is a standard cross over between the heads but I was thinking of the one under the engine, would the titanium ecu be capable of that or would a new map be needed? Are pods more hassle than they are worth?

I will pull the bike out over the weekend and test the turning of the bars, although the bike is usually running straight when it cuts out, and confirm the idle once warmed up and choke fully in.

Thanks 

Mark

Posted

Are those OMRON G8HE or G8HN? Either way, but especially for the G8HN, the critical ones could have aged out (#2 and especially #5/the very back one for the fuel and ignition).

Also, inspect the Sidestand switch, actuator, wiring, and connections.

Another "cut out" point are the spade connectors for fuel/igmitinn/ECU under the fuse block. It can be carefully pried up to inspect and secure these hidden wonders:

gallery_328_223_160743.jpeg

  • Like 3
Posted
1 hour ago, Pandamonium said:

Thanks Phil, there is a standard cross over between the heads but I was thinking of the one under the engine, would the titanium ecu be capable of that or would a new map be needed? Are pods more hassle than they are worth?

I will pull the bike out over the weekend and test the turning of the bars, although the bike is usually running straight when it cuts out, and confirm the idle once warmed up and choke fully in.

Thanks 

Mark

No need for any changes to the ecu no matter what exhaust you fit inc the secondary crossover. The std ecu will accommodate any exhaust. The "titanium" exhaust ECU supplied with the Titanium mufflers was just a marketing thing and an exercise in Guzzi putting their hand in your pocket. Same as it was for Termi cans on Ducati's back in the day. 

Pod filters are an abomination that will make your bike run worse than stock and give less filtering.

Phil

  • Like 6
  • Haha 1
Posted
10 hours ago, docc said:

Are those OMRON G8HE or G8HN? Either way, but especially for the G8HN, the critical ones could have aged out (#2 and especially #5/the very back one for the fuel and ignition).

Also, inspect the Sidestand switch, actuator, wiring, and connections.

Another "cut out" point are the spade connectors for fuel/igmitinn/ECU under the fuse block. It can be carefully pried up to inspect and secure these hidden wonders:

gallery_328_223_160743.jpeg

I had to think about the wiring changes between the early and later V11, but I believe one of the common weak links in the relays is the NC contact of Relay#1/front. The NC contact is the lowest rated and only kept in contact by the internal spring, not the power of the coil.

Bounce or poor contact in the NC contact of Relay#1 would definitely be suspect for the cut out symptoms.

  • Like 2
Posted
11 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

No need for any changes to the ecu no matter what exhaust you fit inc the secondary crossover. The std ecu will accommodate any exhaust. The "titanium" exhaust ECU supplied with the Titanium mufflers was just a marketing thing and an exercise in Guzzi putting their hand in your pocket. Same as it was for Termi cans on Ducati's back in the day. 

Pod filters are an abomination that will make your bike run worse than stock and give less filtering.

Phil

Thanks Phil, I'll avoid thr pods, might do the secondary crossover for fun later down the line the though

Posted
1 hour ago, docc said:

I had to think about the wiring changes between the early and later V11, but I believe one of the common weak links in the relays is the NC contact of Relay#1/front. The NC contact is the lowest rated and only kept in contact by the internal spring, not the power of the coil.

Bounce or poor contact in the NC contact of Relay#1 would definitely be suspect for the cut out symptoms.

Hi Docc, the relays are marked as 0339A 32B, not seeing G8 marked on them. I'll pull them all tomorrow and give them a clean and pop them back in, I'll also check the spade connectors.

Is there a decent battery recommendation to help all this? The current battery is marked as 2TX15L BS but at the local distributor ive been sent YTX15L BS and when I phone them I get told MG12B 4 🤦‍♂️

  • Like 1
Posted

Fresh Picker Components high current relays would be reasonable.

I have always run the OEM style Hawker Odyssey AGM, formerly known as PC545. YMMV

  • Like 3
Posted

What @docc said ^^^^^^^

Replace your relays with fresh ones; they do fail and are easy to replace; and check/clean/tighten the connectors in the base sockets. That would eliminate that factor from your diagnostic. 
CAIG DeoxIT is a proven contact cleaner and Picker Components PC782-1C-12S-R-X is the best relay of choice so far for the V11’s. 

  • Like 3
Posted

Thanks @docc @Speedfrog. New relays look to be about £2.20 each so that's a no brainer, will get them ordered up. Odyssey battery proving a little more difficult, the joys of living in Northern Ireland where UK places won't post to and NI stockists not listing the battery 😑 

  • Like 2

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