Is my Electrosport Stator Defective?

[Sam P]

2 hours ago, docc said:

If you set your Ohm meter to a higher setting, say 2kΩ (2000 Ohms), the reading between the terminal you arrowed and the regulator connector at with the lighter wire (not black) should read > 0 < (zero) indicating no resistance (continuous/connected circuit). 

2000 ohm setting on the DMM is the same as the 200 setting, i.e. 15.

The 20K ohm setting yields a reading of 0.01

The 200K ohm setting reads zero.

Not sure what this all means....

[docc]

4 minutes ago, Sam P said:

2000 ohm setting on the DMM is the same as the 200 setting, i.e. 15.

The 20K ohm setting yields a reading of 0.01

The 200K ohm setting reads zero.

Not sure what this all means....

Well, there is continuity through that circuit (good). Not sure if 15 Ohms is high.

What is the Ohm reading from Relay#2 to the black wire at the regulator connector?

[Sam P]

16 minutes ago, docc said:

What is the Ohm reading from Relay#2 to the black wire at the regulator connector?

DMM reads 1 at all Ohm values on the dial

[Sam P]

10 minutes ago, docc said:

!!  That circuit should be open ( > 0 < Ohms).

That would mean no voltage reference is reaching the regulator

Somewhere between Relay#2 and that regulator connector, that wire is not connected.

Have you had the tank off?

So I did both tests from Relay 2 (blue wire to instruments and black wire to regulator) with the bullet connectors pulled apart, i.e. not connected to each other. Would this have made a difference? Sorry but I really need to be spoon fed on this, and I appreciate your patience and understanding.

[gstallons]

7 hours ago, Sam P said:

With ohm meter set at 200, I got 15 ohms, between the blue wire and the center terminal pictured below. What does this mean? I know it's very basic but my electrical knowledge is poor.

(If you meant by "center terminal" the terminal centered below my arrow, the resistance there was zero).

SamP, this means the wiring and the bulb in that circuit is good. You have no reason to tear into the cluster or anything else. I can send you a pic if you call my cell to explain what you did. 

Edited 22 hours ago by gstallons
spelling error

[docc]

Test Ohm resistance from the red/black wire on the harness side to the Relay#2 output . . .

 

[Sam P]

4 minutes ago, docc said:

Test Ohm resistance from the red/black wire on the harness side to the Relay#2 output . .

1.1 ohm with DMM set at 200 ohm

0 ohm with DMM set at 2K ohm

[docc]

8 minutes ago, Sam P said:

1.1 ohm with DMM set at 200 ohm

0 ohm with DMM set at 2K ohm

Okay, voltage reference wire is intact, then.

What are the two wires truncated (nutted) in the image?

Red-green would be the charging back to the battery through Fuse#3 you bypassed.

But the black wire? Even with the case grounded to the timing chest, there would be nothing wrong leaving that regulator ground connected to the battery negative terminal.

[Sam P]

3 minutes ago, docc said:

kay, voltage reference wire is intact, then.

What are the two wires truncated (nutted) in the image?

Red-green would be the charging back to the battery through Fuse#3 you bypassed.

But the black wire?

Yes R-G is the old reg to batt + charging wire.

If I remember correctly, the black wire is/was the regulator ground back to battery -. Since I ran a new 10AWG ground from the reg case mounting screw to the timing case, I assumed I could cap the old ground wire. I could of course reconnect it if needed.

[docc]

5 minutes ago, Sam P said:

Yes R-G is the old reg to batt + charging wire.

If I remember correctly, the black wire is/was the regulator ground back to battery -. Since I ran a new 10AWG ground from the reg case mounting screw to the timing case, I assumed I could cap the old ground wire. I could of course reconnect it if needed.

This makes me wonder about the primary battery negative ground to the back rear of the gearbox.

Has that been seen to?

[Sam P]

2 minutes ago, docc said:

This makes me wonder about the primary battery negative ground to the back rear of the gearbox.

Has that been seen to?

Well it's intact at the gearbox, but I haven't inspected the wire all the way to battery -. I could do that if you'd recommend it....

[docc]

Cleaning and securing that main ground along with restoring the regulator's harness ground can't hurt.

Next, we are going to have investigate the connectors under the tank.

[gstallons]

According to wiring diagrams , the regulator has a ground wire coming out of the regulator and going to a GOOD engine ground and at the same connection a good ground going to the - post of the battery. 

[Sam P]

3 minutes ago, docc said:

Cleaning and securing that main ground along with restoring the regulator's harness ground can't hurt.

Next, we are going to have investigate the connectors under the tank.

OK tomorrow morning I'll reconnect the original reg ground (leaving my new one in place) and inspect the main ground from the gearbox all the way to the battery. Then I'll see the charging and oil light come on when I turn the key. I also may fire it up and take a 5 min ride around the neighborhood to see if anything has changed. If not I'll pull off the tank.

Stay tuned, and thank you again for all of your help!

 

[Sam P]

7 minutes ago, gstallons said:

According to wiring diagrams , the regulator has a ground wire coming out of the regulator and going to a GOOD engine ground and at the same connection a good ground going to the - post of the battery. 

I will fix this first thing tomorrow. Thx!

Edited 21 hours ago by Sam P