Is my Electrosport Stator Defective?

[gstallons]

Well docc , the red/green wire is the wire that goes to F3. and I ASSUME the black wire is the ground to the battery. Let me go o/s and check my red frame to say yes.

[Sam P]

14 minutes ago, docc said:

With Key On/ Engine Off, what is the voltage at the blue wire on the harness side of the regulator connector?

(Should be = battery voltage)

 

Zero volts on the blue wire. Battery terminals are at 13 volts

[docc]

Voltage on the red/black wire, KO/EO?

[gstallons]

SanP , on my red frame the two red wires form one pin and they go into the red/green wire on the bike. The black wire goes down and grounds to the regulator mount.

 

[gstallons]

I would take/post pictures but I can't hold a camera, light wiring harnesses correctly and press the button at the same time !

[Sam P]

23 minutes ago, docc said:

Voltage on the red/black wire, KO/EO?

Zero volts key off and key on, engine off.

[docc]

42 minutes ago, docc said:

Voltage on the red/black wire, KO/EO?

 

17 minutes ago, Sam P said:

Zero volts key off and key on, engine off.

And that is with all of the relays installed?

That harness red/black is the voltage reference to the regulator's black (input) wire. Should be battery voltage coming out of Relay#2 . . .

edit: Both the blue and especially the red/black wires look rather kinked going into the back of that connector. If they are straightened, or "wiggled", does the voltage change?

[Sam P]

32 minutes ago, docc said:

And that is with all of the relays installed?

Oh crap, Relay 2 was not installed, sorry about that.

Will reinstall the relay first thing tomorrow, and redo the voltage tests on the blue wire, as well as the red/black wire from the harness. Stay tuned and thank you again.

[gstallons]

Relay 2 , when it is energized powers up the low fuel , oil press. and gen. lights. It powers up the tach and these lights and other components. When you install the #2 relay and turn the switch to run position the headlight should come on proving the relay circuit is working and the instrument lights mention should come on too.

[Sam P]

Update from yesterday evening:

1. Plugged relay 2 back in. Battery terminals read 12.7 key off, 12.6 key on, 13.0 when I took it off the tender about an hour ago.
2. Blue wire to harness 12.4v key on
3. Red/black wire to harness 12.2v key on
4. Re-attached harness black regulator ground. (Because the wire was not long enough to reach the regulator bolt, I  attached it to the timing case bolt, from where my new 10AWG regulator ground goes to the regulator case).
5. Next, with key on engine off, the headlight comes on, horn works, neutral light on, but no charging light or oil light.
6. Main battery ground from gearbox seems intact, but there are a few sharp bends just before it attaches to the - terminal. I could try to eliminate the bends if it is recommended.

Edited 10 hours ago by Sam P
Added point #6

[docc]

3 hours ago, Sam P said:

Update from yesterday evening:

1. Plugged relay 2 back in. Battery terminals read 12.7 key off, 12.6 key on, 13.0 when I took it off the tender about an hour ago.
2. Blue wire to harness 12.4v key on
3. Red/black wire to harness 12.2v key on
4. Re-attached harness black regulator ground. (Because the wire was not long enough to reach the regulator bolt, I  attached it to the timing case bolt, from where my new 10AWG regulator ground goes to the regulator case).
5. Next, with key on engine off, the headlight comes on, horn works, neutral light on, but no charging light or oil light.
6. Main battery ground from gearbox seems intact, but there are a few sharp bends just before it attaches to the - terminal. I could try to eliminate the bends if it is recommended.

On the main ground: looking for tha same approach you used on the timing chest ground: clean, remove any paint, DeOxit ( maybe a "star" lock washer to dog the connection in).

[audiomick]

@Sam P I was away over the weekend. Reading over what has been posted in the last couple of days, it seems you don't always know why you are measuring what people suggest. I made rough and simple sketch of the charging circuit, in the hope that it will confuse you even further maybe help a bit. 

Hope that helps you understand what is going on.

[audiomick]

On 9/19/2025 at 9:27 PM, Sam P said:

I just cleaned up this connector with Deoxit. Fired up the engine and am still seeing only 12.3vdc at the battery. Thought I should check the output voltage from the reg/rec going into this connection, which I have not done yet. What should the voltage be at idle and with some revs? If the voltage is not good, then the rec/rec is malfunctioning, correct? (I have tested the AC voltage from the stator yellow wires, and it looked OK).

I think you have that the wrong way around. As far as I can tell, the black wire between that connector and the regulator feeds the 12V reference from the red-black wire into the regulator, and the white one is the connection from the warning lamp(blue wire) into the regulator. 

The voltages coming into the connector from the wiring loom should be close to the same as battery + at all revs.

If the voltage coming in from the red-black wire deviates from battery + too much, the regulator will think the battery is not being charged and put too much voltage out on the feed to the battery.

A "wrong" voltage on the blue wire coming into the white wire to the regulator should not be able to cause the regulator to malfunction.

 

EDIT: I see @docc has already said that here:

 

Edited 1 hour ago by audiomick

[audiomick]

On 9/20/2025 at 3:00 PM, Sam P said:

Well the DMM reads 12.3vDC at the battery terminals, at idle and when revved.  Now I'm not sure if that's volts coming from the regulator, or if it's reading the current from the battery.  

You've mixed up terms there. You're not measuring current, that is the amount of electricity that is flowing at a point in time. You're measuring voltage. That's the "electrical pressure", correct term "electrical potential", that is present at that point in the circuit.

You're quite right to consider whether the volts are being pushed in from the regulator or are coming from the battery. That is the correct question. 

The fact that the voltage is not changing at any revs indicates that the regulator is not "pushing volts into the battery". If it were, as has been mentioned further up, the voltage at that point should go up to around 14V at higher revs.

It isn't, so the volts are getting lost in the regulator (it's malfunctioning) or not getting from the regulator to the battery (bad connection).

[audiomick]

On 9/21/2025 at 12:49 AM, Sam P said:

... a 12-way Amp connector. Assume I could get the multimeter needle into the connector, or would I need to remove the wire to take the reading? ...

If the probe from the multi-meter wont go in, stick something in that will fit and measure off that. A paper clip, maybe...