Is my Electrosport Stator Defective?

[Sam P]

17 minutes ago, docc said:

Dang. So, the oil light is getting power, since it will light when the wire is grounded and the switch looks closed (no resistance from the switch post to ground), but no light . . .

Did you completely remove the wire connector to the switch and test the resistance to ground with the switch post bare?

I believe so. I clipped the ohm meter to the post at the red arrow in pic below.

[docc]

4 hours ago, Sam P said:

Ohms were, at various DMM settings:

70 @ 200

 

38 minutes ago, Sam P said:

I clipped the ohm meter to the post at the red arrow in pic below.

Perhaps 70 Ohms is a bad switch. Near zero would be preferable. A simple Test Light, like @gstallons often recommends, would be a way to test the switch: connect test light to positive--> touch probe to bare switch post. Light? Switch good. No light? Bad switch.

If we can get the oil light out of the equation by determining it has nothing to do with the charge light, perhaps the search narrows.

[Sam P]

6 minutes ago, docc said:

 

Perhaps 70 Ohms is a bad switch. Near zero would be preferable. A simple Test Light, like @gstallons often recommends, would be a way to test the switch: connect test light to positive--> touch probe to bare switch post. Light? Switch good. No light? Bad switch.

If we can get the oil light out of the equation by determining it has nothing to do with the charge light, perhaps the search narrows.

Something like this?

[audiomick]

2 hours ago, Sam P said:

This is what my DMM shows at all ohm settings between the blue wire and GND.

That looks like an open circuit = no connection. But if that is between the wire itself and ground, that is to be expected.

What I'm interested in is not the incoming wire to ground, but the connection that it plugs on to to ground. And under various conditions: key on, engine off. Engine running. Engine running at the revs where the light has been going on.

Ideally: connect the DMM, see what it is showing, turn on the key, see what the DMM is showing, start the motor, see what the DMM is showing, slowly increase the revs and observe what the DMM shows during this.

What I'm interested in is if the regulator is switching that contact to ground as it should, or at least under which conditions it is doing so. 

[docc]

Blue wire to ground, I get 34.6Ω.

edit: with the oil switch unplugged, I get open circuit  "1" from blue wire to ground. Another indication your oil switch is faulty, but not a clue on the charging issue(s).

Oil switch post to ground, I get 1.6Ω. This makes me think your oil pressure switch is faulty and the lack of oil light, KOEO, is not related to the charging issue(s).

[audiomick]

51 minutes ago, docc said:

... ( I ) think ...the lack of oil light, KOEO, is not related to the charging issue(s).

Yes, I think so too.

I think it might possibly be related to the charge light not coming on KOEO, but I don't think that is the cause of the charging issue(s) either. I still suspect that there are more than one fault, and that this is confusing the issue(s) somewhat.

[docc]

Perhaps more than two faults.

I am trying to fashion a way to see voltages at the regulator reference connector at various states (KOEO, idle, +rpm) . . . 

I am staged to partially insert the connector, attach two separate DMM to the exposed, but inserted, legs and see what those reference and warning light voltages do . . .

The set up:

[docc]

Static battery voltage = 12.80

KOEO:

left DMM: red/black-->black "Reference Voltage" / right DMM: "blue" --> white "warning light" wire

[ dash battery warning light illuminated }

[docc]

At "idle", about 1100 rpm (no battery light) :

 

About 2000-2500 rpm (no battery light) :

[docc]

I hope those last posts are valuable for reference.

(FWIW, with KOEO, I unplugged the oil pressure switch and the oil light went out, but the battery light stayed on.)

 

[Sam P]

1 hour ago, docc said:

I hope those last posts are valuable for reference.

(FWIW, with KOEO, I unplugged the oil pressure switch and the oil light went out, but the battery light stayed on.)

 

Yes indeed thank you, and also to @audiomick. Life has gotten in the way of my troubleshooting, and I expect to get back to the task early next week, and I will report back then. I did order a new oil pressure switch from MG Cycle, which should arrive early next week as well.

[gstallons]

On 9/24/2025 at 3:45 PM, docc said:

 

Perhaps 70 Ohms is a bad switch. Near zero would be preferable. A simple Test Light, like @gstallons often recommends, would be a way to test the switch: connect test light to positive--> touch probe to bare switch post. Light? Switch good. No light? Bad switch.

If we can get the oil light out of the equation by determining it has nothing to do with the charge light, perhaps the search narrows.

docc, this has been over complicated w/the  DVOM and overthinking. 

 Testing this w/a simple incandescent test light is the way to go. To prove a press. switch is n.c. just turn the ign. key to the run position. If the light is indeed off , remove the wire to the sensor and touch it to a good ground. If the light comes on. The switch aka sensor is bad. To test the sensor to be sure , connect the test light to a 12v source then touch the test light to a good ground. Light comes on and you have a good circuit. Touch the test light to the tip of the sensor. If the light comes on your sensor is good. If the light is off , the sensor is bad.

 I have about 4-6 Fluke 77,87,88 DVOMs and 2 Simpson 260s  and a SnapOn MT 406 analog meters. What I do most test work w/is a simple NAPA test light. This test light will do two things . It verifies V and verifies a good circuit (because a DVOM will not introduce a load int the circuit) by loading the circuit w/a test light.

 A good wiring diagram and step by step testing will help ruling out possibilities and verify what is good and bad.

 Good luck

 Sam , do take notes and take steps. You will be doing this a lot. MotoGuzzis will have lots of quirks. Inop lights are just one of them . Light connections are just one. Have plenty of vaseline ,De-oxit . contact grease or whatever gooey you rub on contacts are.

 Charging  V is imperative , lights are a luxury . If my bike starts and runs: good.

 Brake lights and turn signals are not needed. I live in Ky. You drive through the state. You will understand.

Edited 1 hour ago by gstallons
more info

[gstallons]

On 9/24/2025 at 3:52 PM, Sam P said:

Something like this?

I'm not sure if that is an A.C. tester ?