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Posted

Well docc , the red/green wire is the wire that goes to F3. and I ASSUME the black wire is the ground to the battery. Let me go o/s and check my red frame to say yes.

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Posted
14 minutes ago, docc said:

With Key On/ Engine Off, what is the voltage at the blue wire on the harness side of the regulator connector?

(Should be = battery voltage)

 

Zero volts on the blue wire. Battery terminals are at 13 volts

Posted

Voltage on the red/black wire, KO/EO?

Posted

SanP , on my red frame the two red wires form one pin and they go into the red/green wire on the bike. The black wire goes down and grounds to the regulator mount.

 

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Posted

I would take/post pictures but I can't hold a camera, light wiring harnesses correctly and press the button at the same time !

  • Haha 1
Posted
23 minutes ago, docc said:

Voltage on the red/black wire, KO/EO?

Zero volts key off and key on, engine off.

Posted
42 minutes ago, docc said:

Voltage on the red/black wire, KO/EO?

 

17 minutes ago, Sam P said:

Zero volts key off and key on, engine off.

And that is with all of the relays installed?

That harness red/black is the voltage reference to the regulator's black (input) wire. Should be battery voltage coming out of Relay#2 . . .

IMG_5041.jpeg

edit: Both the blue and especially the red/black wires look rather kinked going into the back of that connector. If they are straightened, or "wiggled", does the voltage change?

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Posted
32 minutes ago, docc said:

And that is with all of the relays installed?

Oh crap, Relay 2 was not installed, sorry about that.

Will reinstall the relay first thing tomorrow, and redo the voltage tests on the blue wire, as well as the red/black wire from the harness. Stay tuned and thank you again.

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Posted

Relay 2 , when it is energized powers up the low fuel , oil press. and gen. lights. It powers up the tach and these lights and other components. When you install the #2 relay and turn the switch to run position the headlight should come on proving the relay circuit is working and the instrument lights mention should come on too.

Posted (edited)

Update from yesterday evening:

  1. Plugged relay 2 back in. Battery terminals read 12.7 key off, 12.6 key on, 13.0 when I took it off the tender about an hour ago.
  2. Blue wire to harness 12.4v key on
  3. Red/black wire to harness 12.2v key on
  4. Re-attached harness black regulator ground. (Because the wire was not long enough to reach the regulator bolt, I  attached it to the timing case bolt, from where my new 10AWG regulator ground goes to the regulator case).
  5. Next, with key on engine off, the headlight comes on, horn works, neutral light on, but no charging light or oil light.
  6. Main battery ground from gearbox seems intact, but there are a few sharp bends just before it attaches to the - terminal. I could try to eliminate the bends if it is recommended.
Edited by Sam P
Added point #6
Posted
3 hours ago, Sam P said:

Update from yesterday evening:

  1. Plugged relay 2 back in. Battery terminals read 12.7 key off, 12.6 key on, 13.0 when I took it off the tender about an hour ago.
  2. Blue wire to harness 12.4v key on
  3. Red/black wire to harness 12.2v key on
  4. Re-attached harness black regulator ground. (Because the wire was not long enough to reach the regulator bolt, I  attached it to the timing case bolt, from where my new 10AWG regulator ground goes to the regulator case).
  5. Next, with key on engine off, the headlight comes on, horn works, neutral light on, but no charging light or oil light.
  6. Main battery ground from gearbox seems intact, but there are a few sharp bends just before it attaches to the - terminal. I could try to eliminate the bends if it is recommended.

On the main ground: looking for tha same approach you used on the timing chest ground: clean, remove any paint, DeOxit ( maybe a "star" lock washer to dog the connection in).

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