docc Posted July 30, 2004 Share Posted July 30, 2004 Several threads have discussed the dubious grounding of the instruments and the fragile light housings for instrument illumination. I'll come back to edit this post with links to the other threads. For now I'd like to ask where the light housings fail. At the rivet(point A) or the crimp ( point B ) ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callison Posted July 30, 2004 Share Posted July 30, 2004 At the crimp. You can't get the damned thing back together very easily either. My solution was to gut the lamp housing saving only the outside metal part and put a white LED in there instead. Basically, I just took the LED, soldered a 1/16 watt 680 Ω (I think it was 1/16W, whatever it was, it was very small) resistor to the positive lead and soldered that to a small brass strip to act as the terminal. The two leads were insulated and then the LED and leads wound up in black duct tape until they fit snugly into the metal housing. The negative lead was folded over the outside of the tape plug before it was inserted into the original outer metal shell. The finished lamp gives a very spooky Cherenkov blue radiation look to the instruments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted July 30, 2004 Author Share Posted July 30, 2004 Since the JB Weld is an insulator ( and the best epoxy I know of) couldn't the crimp be epoxied before it fails? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callison Posted July 30, 2004 Share Posted July 30, 2004 Since the JB Weld is an insulator ( and the best epoxy I know of) couldn't the crimp be epoxied before it fails? If the JB Weld will adhere to the plastic, it would be worth a try. JB Weld will not adhere to rubber - as in re-attaching the ECU rubber mount studs on a Sport 1100i... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted July 31, 2004 Author Share Posted July 31, 2004 There , that ought to do it! I would think the thing to use on the rubber would be RTV Silicone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted July 31, 2004 Author Share Posted July 31, 2004 I was considering this roadside fuse box modification. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al_roethlisberger Posted July 31, 2004 Share Posted July 31, 2004 ....or how-a-bout this one? At least you could count on finding spares along the neighborhood homes as needed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gary Cheek Posted August 1, 2004 Share Posted August 1, 2004 Good one Docc As a little side tip , some of you may or may not have realized the V11 fuse block has spaces between the fuses . These spaces are just the right dize to slip spare fuses into . That way they are right where you need them without a lot of un packing and it is apparent when you need to replenish a spare . There are now available at some auto parts stores indicator ATO fuses that have a little light that will glow when the fuse is blown . Just thought the heads up might be of interest to some . Cheers from North of Canada Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted August 1, 2004 Author Share Posted August 1, 2004 Aw, that's awsome! I just moved all my spare fuses to the fuse block. How neat is that?! Thanks, Gary! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now