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Buell Lighting Foot Pegs


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The Buell riders peg mounts are cast into the frame (kind of a large pork chop). It is not a conventional mount. I didn't see anything on the Harley stealers floor or other shops that would adapt as easy or look as clean as our mount... Same reason I did not use the Buell Pins, they are too long and fat and would weaken the stock mount by enlarging the hole... besides they are expensive, almost 20 bucks for 2 pins and e-clips, OMG.. That’s Guzzi Prices!

 

As far as the rider’s pegs, I thought about this one too... and the Buell pegs can be mounted there with the same mod and will be in the same vertical line just lower. If you "swap them" to opposite sides they would be upside down or some odd angle (The pegs are 45 deg offset as are the riders bracket). Because the pegs are 1" lower, I think they will be too low and hit the stock cans. I no longer have my OEM cans, so I can't be 100% sure they won't fit but if you look at your pegs and can clearance, I don't think you have an inch with pegs down without lowering the cans the same difference... it will be close. If you are running the Quat-D, you’re golden. In hind-site, for two up comfort, I think the Q-D with Buell pegs all around would be the ticket :bike:

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Got to test drive today and give assesment of the Buell Lighting pegs.. Overal positive.. Pegs are great, much better "sport" touring position. Will give it another ride with shifter and break adjusted a little lower. Up shifting, didn't miss a lick on back woods roads, down shifting, had to adjust foot up to the the bracket a few times due to the offset. Still like it much better than stock for road comfort. Rear break lever needs to adjusted down. Definatly had to reposition foot to break. Not that big of a deal but definatly aware of the position change.. Again. no regrets with the change in ergo's just need to see what I can do with shifter & break lever this weekend to make it more better :luigi: .

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Sorry I can't give an update as far as comfort goes with mike bike still down for maintenance  (waiting on exhaust cans).  I did refine the bushing I originally used.  I found a couple bronze bushing that were 1" long, 3/8 outside diameter, with a 1/4" inside diameter.  I had to shorten the lenght to a little less than 7/8" to get it to fit perfectly inside the peg and MG peg mount (used a bench grinder again). I found the bushing at a local hardware store.  I had originally used a piece of threaded lamp conduit which has the 3/8 OD and 1/4"+ ID just to get it together.  It worked fine, and wasn't visible but I knew it wasn't the right stuff and would eventually rust which made me keep looking.  The following web site will give you a source and visuall of the bushing/bearing I'm talking about.  McMaster-Carr deal in SAE/Metric and you might even find one with closer tolerances but the 3/8x1/4 worked for me (a kick ass site for sure).  The trick with the whole project is grind slow on the peg & bushing to keep the tolerance close and square.  If you take too much off, I imagine things will get a little sloppy/droopy.  The Buell spring around the bushing works great.

 

http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/PSearch2...cMMainWidth=570

 

the above link will take you to the bushing I'm refering to, or just go to www.mcmaster.com and surf the night away as you'll find all those do-dads you been looking for.  Shipping is supper quick and reasonable. :luigi:

 

 

Just a quick observation. I picked up the Buell kit(pegs and springs) this evening, and went out and picked up some 1/4x3/8x1(idxodxlgth) bushings as you described(inches).

 

However, I soon found that the diameter of the pin hole through the Buell peg was much closer to 7/16, and the 3/8 bushing moved around quite freely within the hole. My concern is that the peg would then be quite loose around the pin/bushing combo.

 

What has been your observation?

 

I found two bushings at http://www.mcmaster.com/ that one could "nest" to get the correct ID and OD, if I am correct...

 

Part # 6381K446 has 5/16"ID and 7/16"OD and 1" long

Part # 6381K411 has 1/4"ID and 5/16"OD, but it's only 3/4" long, so one might have to use a couple per pin.

 

Anyway, what are your thoughts.... did you find the 3/8 bushing loose??

 

al

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Al,

 

re. 3/8 bushing.. I think the fit is tight enough. I don't notice any loosness or incresesed vibration from the pegs as a result of using the 1/4 x 3/8. I think the key is don't grind too much off the sides of the peg to keep it tight within the bracket. I didn't try 7/16's, haveing a 3/8ths in hand was close enough for me. I'm sure you can refine what I have done and take this mod to the next level by reducing the clearance and or nesting :notworthy:

 

Next week I'm going to work on the shifter/break levers. Now that I have over a 100 miles on these pegs. I'm sold on the position but still doing a lot of foot movement and repositioning to down shift and break.. I really haven't had the time to scratch my head on this one (daughter got married this weekend :drink: )yet but I'll do the obvious first and adjust position through linkage.

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Guest Graham in NZ

Fitting lower pegs seems like a good idea but even with the stock pegs I found the gear and brake levers set too high for my liking. For the gear lever I filed the underside edge a bit where it passes over the frame side plate. For the brake lever I made a small aluminium plate to re-mount the eccentric aduster onto, allowing much lower setting.

Graham

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Well, I was looking at the foot controls last night while visually mocking-up the Buell pegs(still waiting on the 7/16" bushings), and it seems like it wouldn't be too hard to simply extend the rubber pegs if one wanted.

 

After all, even though I understand your point about putting one's feet actually on the stock bracket, as much as the peg, the Buell pegs still don't widen the placement of one's feet very much.

 

So, by loosening or replacing the bolt that holds on the rubber peg with a longer unit, and adding a spacer/sleeve of some sort, one could move the control peg out a bit further to make up the difference and make the transition to the slightly wider stance more easy.

 

 

I haven't tried this yet, but is just an initial impression of an easy modification to keep one from having to turn your toes too far inward to get to the controls once the Buell pegs(or similar setups) are fitted.

 

BTW, keep us posted on your acclimation to, and impression of the Buell pegs long term. I should receive my bushings sometime this week, and will put them on as well ASAP.

 

 

Again, great post, and think this is one of the best inexpensive modifications of this type we have run across for anyone looking for lower pegs.

 

al

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Agreed... I was thinking the same thing WRT the pegs, add a spacer and a piece of rubber fuel line to cover all id needed. I'm thinking less than 1/2" extenstion. Grahams post has good ideas too. I looked a little closer at clearances, linkages, elliptical break stop, etc... I think a combination of both ideas will get everything were it needs to be w/o much hassle or $$. Unfortunately I can’t play in the garage until next week but it's on the to-do list. I'm going for the lever drop first and see how that works before I extend anything.

 

As far as foot positioning observations, it might be more of a vertical positioning issue WRT the pegs vs. levers than the lateral offset. Because the two have changed, and a "step" has been introduced with the bracket, I'm just more aware of it and required foot movement to break and downshift... Around town and on the highways not an issue :wub: ... Spirited riding in the twisties, too much going on to have to move feet to manipulate stock position levers :ninja:

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OK, got mine installed.... well, got ONE installed :rolleyes:

 

Let me explain :P

 

 

Following Richard's instructions, in combination with my more precise bushings, I was unable to grind enough material from the back "side" of the peg without eating too far into a reinforcing web in the casting than I would feel comfortable with.

 

I think that because Richard used a single bushing with some degree of play, the peg itself was able to sit a bit further out in the bracket than with my solution, and thus he may have not had to grind as far. I haven't inspected Richard's, but this is what I suspect.

 

However, with the bushings I used, that "play" is eliminated.

 

So, first let me say that with the pair of bushings I ordered from MCMaster, the fit of the Guzzi pin is perfect. There is no play at all :thumbsup: Since the OD/ID of these bushings are not super precise, it did take a few minutes of sanding with them mounted on the end of a drill bit to get that last fraction of an inch down so they would nest within eachother. But once done, the Guzzi pin fits snugly and perfectly inside the bronze bushings, centered in the Buell peg pin hole.

 

For each peg, I used one 5/16ID-7/16OD-1Long and two 1/4ID-5/16OD-3/4L(need about 7/8L, so a fraction of a second is used) bushings.

 

But, this forces a pretty exact fit for the peg itself now, and my experience was that the ~2mm that needed grinding off had to come from the top/front half of the peg. And of course a quick nip on the very edge of the reinforcing webbing on the back side. Again, if I tried(and I did) to take the material off evenly front and back, I ended up grinding well into the reinforcing web on the backside of the peg which worried me.

 

I would have preferred to evenly split the removal of material from both portions of the peg wall, but with the bushings in place, I felt more concerned taking too much of a bite out of the reinforcing web on the back.

 

So, I have the left peg installed, with most of the material removed from one side of the peg, the front side. It seems sturdy, and that enough material is left, and along with the bronze bushings should be fine.

 

I have to order another right hand peg since my experimentation with that one showed that it probably wouldn't work out with the solution I've used... then I'll have it done.

 

A quick "sit in the seat" didn't feel like the controls were put that far out of norm. And even if so, an exention of maybe 1/2-3/4" on the control pegs should solve the issue.

 

al

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Al,

 

I'll take a picture of the grind tonight but I did end up "notching" the cast web a little, trying to keep both sides equal in thickness. I didn't see loosing much support, theres still way more metal than the OEM pegs. I think I'll try for a set of the 7/16th bushings my self on my nect McMC order.

 

Your probably right about the 1/16 inch difference in the bushings allowing for the tight fit on mine. One side was snug and took an awl to get the right alighment to get the pivot pin in there. Having used the 3/8 OD I didn't run into the same problem you did.

 

What happend with the RH peg during experimentation? Too much metal removal? just curious.

 

I'll can put together a better "how to" for posting in FAQ's that combines your lessons learned. :thumbsup:

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  • 4 weeks later...
Guest Fonzarelli

I have started my Buell foot peg conversion. I thought I would share my modifications of the foot peg to give you a visual of what material I removed.

 

Machined%20peg%201.JPG

 

Machined%20peg%202.JPG

 

Machined%20peg%203.JPG

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