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Oil pressure sensor!?


V!!

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Some questions about the Oil pressure sensor.

My oil pressure warning light is lit sometimes but only during hard acceleration (not always) from standing still. WHY?

Of course I checked oil level and its looking perfect. When I changed oil it looked good with no particles in it and its not running hot or anything.

So I changed my Oil pressure sensor and it made no difference, but after just about 100km it started to leak from the centre (where the electronic is connected.) Now I changed it for the third time after same problem, leaking and of course it’s still warning during acceleration some times. Does someone know why?

This time I’m planning to install a BMW sensor instead of the one I buy from my dealer with the only difference that its connecting at 0,3 Bar pressure instead of 0,25.

Is 0,25 Bar the original “connecting pressure”?

Is this operation a bad idea, to change with 0,05 Bar pressure difference from orginal.

 

Please help me with some answers! :sun::sun::sun::sun:

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I can't tell you the answer on the leaking/failed sensors.... maybe just bad luck there.... :huh2:

 

 

But, with regard to the original question about low oil under hard acceleration, that does generally indicate low oil :unsure:

 

Make sure you do not check the oil level with the bike on its sidestand, unless you have modified the dipstick to indicate correctly. The oil level must be checked with the bike vertical.

 

al

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When you do your next oil change put in the full prescribed amount. 3 liters or 3 1/4 qt. Run the engine to get the fresh oil through the circuit and then check your oil level. That's where it is supposed to be. I check mine on the sidestand in the garage. It may be coincidental but when it is full I can stick the dipstick in without screwing it in and it is at the full mark. When the bike is on the paddock stand the full mark works with the dipstick screwed all the way in.

 

Oil light during a holeshot is an indicator to me my oil level is low. The pickup is near the front of the crankcase. This pickup is a tube that goes into a hole in the screen. Its opening is a little bit off the bottom of the pan. A holeshot forces the oil to the back and allows the pickup to draw a vortex and suck in a little bit of air.

 

A 0.3 bar pressure switch will make sooner than a 0.25 bar switch. The switch is made when the pressure falls off. Your problem is likely not the switch. It's most likely air getting in the system through the pickup.

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I had a similar problem. My oil light stayed ON when engine was running. I bought a new transmitter and problem solved. This new transmitter has no leaks whatsoever and oil light goes OFF when engine is running at idle and under hard acceleration.

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I agree with what twhitaker said. The dipstick could easily be mis-marked. It was on a whole series of the early Breva's (ask me how I know). Not sure what you mean about hard acceleration (wheelies?), but it does sound like you are sucking air. Not good for the motor.

As far as the sensor goes, they are notoriously bad. Leaking from the connector is a very common failure mode. On all the time is the other failure mode, but at least that one doesn't leak. I've gotten to the point where I will dissconnect them on my tonti frame, because they don't work. That's not really a good idea either.

In the section on testing the sensor, the manual states "...the tester arrow [connected to a multimeter] moves when the pressure (looking at the pressure gauge) reaches a value of Kg/cmq 0,15÷0,35" So you should be ok, but on the high side. Check the units of the measurement, though. Don't pull a 'mars lander' and use newton/sq. meter or some such.

J

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  • 11 months later...

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