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whtas in your gearbox


DVH

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I have a chance to buy some EP 80 oil at a discounted price ( castrol) , is this suitable for the gearbox and bevel box? the handbook specs EP 80/90. It does seem thinner than whats in at present.

 

I have also heard some people adding molyslip to the gearbox/bevelbox, worth it or just more hype?

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Rather than get into favourite brands, and synthetic vs non synthetic, I'll just say that it must be GL-5 rated, and to use some common sense with regard to temperature when running it vs the use of a non multigrade oil.

Ciao, Steve G.

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DVH, the requirement to add moly to the bevelbox is stated in the manual. In addition to the 350ml of SAE80W/90 oil, 20ml of molykote type A or similar is required. Some have put molyslip in their gearbox but I haven't done so. I personally found the use of a synthetic oil in the bevelbox reduced it's temperature noticeably. I also added moly to the bevelbox.

Redline technical people state the addition of molyslip is not required with their Shockproof Heavy product. I didn't go that way because I just simply was not going to pay $30 a litre for it. The choice of lubricants is entirely up to the individual, because at the end of the day, whatever he or she puts in their pride and joy they must be comfortable with.

Rob.

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I use Motul sae 80-90W mineral for the Gearbox and for the back drive sump i used the same but now I use Motorex Hypoid 80-90W alond with the Motorex additive HPLS specially made for use like the Guzzi back drivebox

This is in 125ml tube and lasts for 1,2litter mixture of oil. (5changes)

It is available also from Stein Dinse

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Redline technologists say that Shockproof heavy needs not to be changed at all in street gearbox.

 

I did not change my gearoil for last 30,000 k and the shifting is better and smoother then ever.

 

In my 2000 VW auto tranny which is factory sealed there is a factory oil for the last 220,000 km. Shifts better then when new now.

 

My point is that synthetic oil chemistry and metallurgy improved so much in the last decade that things like that are possible and many old rules can safely be thrown out of the window. Using cheap oil is a false economy, especially single grade non GL-5 in the gearbox.

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Redline technologists say that Shockproof heavy needs not to be changed at all in street gearbox.

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That would probably work fine if our gearboxes did not drink so much water. :drink:

I think there was a thread on how to fix that.

Rear fender extender helps, but a more rain resistant breather would really help.

 

Does anyone know of a stop leak additive for gear oil that works when there is no gasket?

I have been using 80w90-140 or something like that.

Perhaps the Redline heavy would leak slower, just because the viscosity is so high when warm?????

And the thinner water leaking out the bottom is a Feature :mg::lol:

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Amsoil synthetic 75-90w in the gearbox and the same with moly in the drive. Works fine for me!

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Just what I'm about to use along with the Dow Corning M Gear additive in the rear drive.

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