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Bleeding clutch - How?


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I've just done this on my V11, its a bit awkward to get at but do-able, I had to remove the rear shock remote canister on the left hand side to get access to the bleed nipple (which needed soaking in a penetrating fluid, in this case WD40 as it was a bit reluctant to move). Stick a suitable tube on it and bleed away as you would a brake, Guy's instructions above should be useful.

 

If you have a paddock stand it would be heaps easier to remove the rear wheel to get at this and then while it is apart you can grease all those pesky UJ grease nipples and put some grease on the splines on the wheel (and that roller bearing on the far right of the drive box). Doesn't take long.

 

Mal :helmet:

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Speedbleeder makes bleed nipples with built in check valves. This makes the bleeding process a lot easier not having to open and close the nipple cyclically. There is teflon tape on the threads so bubbles can't get in that way. They also have a bleed bag complete with tube to connect to your bleed nipple.

 

www.speedbleeder.com

 

I believe the nipples are $7 apiece. My '02 Lemans takes (2) SB8125L for the front brakes and (1) SB1010S for the rear brake and (1) SB1010S for the clutch.

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Alright, I ordered a set of speed bleeders- we'll see how they work out. Thanks for the part numbers- I'm a little surprised that the threads are different on the front and rear brakes. Ok, maybe not so surprised.

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get a set of speed bleeders for front brakes and clutch -- see threads here for the right size. they are very inexpensive and save tons of time changing fluids.

 

like Mal said, left side- remove the rear shock remote adjuster to get access to the bleeder/nipple. That'll give you access to get your hand in to the clutch bleeder/nipple is. If you have speed bleeders, use a wrench to remove the existing bleeder (on my '03 it was an 8mm I think) and screw in the speed bleeder. Some clutch fluid will spill out but what the heck. Attach the speed bleeder plastic hose/tubing to the nipple, crack the valve open slightly and pump the clutch lever-- the fluid will come out and you don't have to worry about air getting back in due to the check valve built into the speed bleeder. Top off the clutch resevoir and you're done. I did clutch and both front calipers in 15 minutes.

 

Some have said to remove the rear tire to get to the bleeder for the clutch. I don't really see how that could be easier than the above. Way more work involved too.

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This past weekend I put on the MPH risers and new front brake and clutch lines along with speedbleeders....this was my first time bleeding my V11's lines so take my post as such. The front brakes were easy enough...though I took the fender off to have better access and not to scratch it. The clutch cable and bleeder were both a PITA to access, remove, and to bleed...probably more so since I had never done it before and there was a learning curve of what to take off in order to access. Similar to Mal, I used a rear stand and removed the airbox and rear shock canister. A ratcheting box-end wrench was absolutely key to removing the bleeder in the tight space....a compact and tight fitting open end worked well on the line but took a while to get all of the threads out. One warning, the speedbleeders didn't work worth a crap with new dry lines....I must have pumped 50 times and got no pressure in the system (same went for front brakes). Then I went to Sears and bought an overpriced but nice bleeder pump. I attached it to the speedbleeders and "primed" the system until I got fluid in the lines. Then used just the speedbleeders to get the residual air out....which they worked great for. Don't forget to clean the reservoir and associated cap and rubber boot as mine had some residue buildup.

 

btw...I used Valvoline Syn (dot 3 & 4 replacement) in both brakes and clutch.

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