big J Posted May 29, 2005 Share Posted May 29, 2005 Well,started yesterday morning,fitting Stucci, PC111,drilling airbox and putting in K&N filter. Airbox easy peasy,drilled 6 2"holes,K&N in,no probs.While the tank's off, set up the multimeter,2 bell wires in the TPS plug(thanks, Ratchethack), reset the TPS to 150mv closed,then set using left side stop screw to 540 mv with ign on. So far,so good.Prepared for major problems with the Stucchi after Belfast's tale of woe. It went on so easy, I could have thrown it at the bike from twenty feet away and it would still have fitted. Magic. Rig up carbtune,start bike. Wont run for toffee.Check TPS. All ok. Carbtune acting funny, cant get reading. Scratch head. Glare at bike for a while and walk back and forward. Nope, that didnt fix it either. Start again.....TPS.......check.........PC111connections.......check.......bike runs rough with multimeter attached but even worse when disconnected.......WTF??? By the way,this is in the middle of gale force winds and heavy showers,my bike lives outside. The wind was so bad, the tools were getting blown about. START AGAIN. This was the magic moment when I noticed the multimeter is on mA not mV. What a fucking muppet. Reset TPS, set TB balance using carbtune and go for a spin. Spitting back at 2000 to 3000 rpm, feels "flat" everywhere.Back to the house, use the wee buttons to richen her up,cause she's very lean. Gurgle off the drilled airbox on overrun is great,still feels "flat". Next stop,dyno. Moral of the tale, check the bloody multimeter before you hook it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belfastguzzi Posted May 30, 2005 Share Posted May 30, 2005 Prepared for major problems with the Stucchi after Belfast's tale of woe. It went on so easy,53034[/snapback] no, no, no...yes, mine went on easy too – the tricky bit is getting the rest of the pipes to look right – and that's when I got the hacksaw out. Tale of woe? Never, it's all good clean fun. Talking about good clean fun, have you tried throwing a bucket of petrol over your Stucchi yet? By the way,this is in the middle of gale force winds and heavy showers,my bike lives outside. The wind was so bad, the tools were getting blown about. 53034[/snapback] Check Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
O2 V11 Posted May 30, 2005 Share Posted May 30, 2005 big J. I'd guess your a bit peeved. Spending all that hard earned and not getting the results expected. I would have thought there was a map that was suitable for your mods. What map was supplied with the PC?. Did you sync your throttle bodies at both idle and at about 3000rpm? It took me quite a while to get mine right. After setting my TPS I used the airbleed screws to get a consistent vacuum at idle, then the adjuster on the throttle linkage to get the same result at about 3000rpm. What are your valve clearances? If they are too tight this can cause problems. It can only get better after a re-map on the dyno. Good luck. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Minnaert Posted May 30, 2005 Share Posted May 30, 2005 If it feels flat, maybe it's to lean. Try without the pc3, if the bike runs ok, otherwise, you have to readjust the tps, or other settings. It should run ok with the mods you have without pc3. My scura had also holes in the lid and a different filter, ran great without pc3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big J Posted May 30, 2005 Author Share Posted May 30, 2005 Not peeved at all,didnt expect the bike to be perfect after so many changes at one time,did about 100 miles today,richened her up with the wee buttons so it's pretty good now but definately a dyno tune is the answer.The valves are.006" and .008", tbs set at both idle and 3000rpm with carbtune to within about 2cm of mercury,close as I can get them. I'm also aware that the bike may be putting out more power,just in a different way to the previous set up,so that I dont have quite the same kick at 5000rpm but the arse dyno may need calibrated to how it now feels. Sounds much better tho. Maybe it's because Irish air is thicker,all that blarney. Petrol on the Stucchi? Until I noticed the multimeter late on Saturday, the whole thing nearly went up. If you see me walking funny,it's only cause I'm trying to kick my own arse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard100t Posted May 30, 2005 Share Posted May 30, 2005 Your valves may be set a little tight. .010 & .015 are recomended in my manual & I've seen the same remarks here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big J Posted May 30, 2005 Author Share Posted May 30, 2005 .010 and .015? Is that metric inches? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard100t Posted May 30, 2005 Share Posted May 30, 2005 Yes its mm on my feeler gauge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted May 30, 2005 Share Posted May 30, 2005 Your valves may be set a little tight. .010 & .015 are recomended in my manual & I've seen the same remarks here. 53095[/snapback] Actually, Richard, I don't think you've seen that here. I think you mean .10 mm and .15 mm, which I believe are the recommended metric settings. At .006" and .008", he's not at all too tight, in fact he's wider open than "World spec" by .002", and wider open than "US spec" by .004". .006" and .008" is what I'm running now, but will probably actually go a little tighter at my next valve adjustment when the weather here cools down in the Fall. If you've actually set your valves at .010" and .015", your tappets must be making an ungodly racket hammering the daylights out of the cam faces! I haven't heard of anyone doing this on a Guzzi, but on other motors, (among other problems) this could result in "pocketing" of the valves in the valve seats. This means a major top-end rebuild, including re-seating the heads. .004" = .1016 mm .006" = .1524 mm .008" = .2032 mm .10 mm = .0039" .15 mm = .0059" .20 mm = .0078" EDIT: Man, I just realized I got a little confused there myself. I added a few more conversions above & triple-checked 'em, just in case anybody's interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big J Posted May 30, 2005 Author Share Posted May 30, 2005 According to my feeler guages,.006" equals .152mm and .008" equals .203mm. So the valves are ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belfastguzzi Posted May 30, 2005 Share Posted May 30, 2005 .010 and .015? Is that metric inches? 53099[/snapback] .1 and .15mm says the handbook = .004" and .006" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted May 30, 2005 Share Posted May 30, 2005 According to my feeler guages,.006" equals .152mm and .008" equals .203mm. So the valves are ok. 53102[/snapback] You got it right, BigJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard100t Posted May 30, 2005 Share Posted May 30, 2005 Actually my book says .10 & .15. My fault Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted May 30, 2005 Share Posted May 30, 2005 Actually my book says .10 & .15. My fault 53105[/snapback] Hey Richard - I bet you always lost points on your math tests for not labelling your answers, huh? Hey that's OK. I always lost points on spelling tests for not capitalizing months and titles... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big J Posted May 30, 2005 Author Share Posted May 30, 2005 .1 and .15mm says the handbook= .004" and .006" 53103[/snapback] Yeah,I know,but old habits die hard. Irealise that with modern efi, a dyno run should set it up pretty final, but in my experience looser valves(within reason) help tickover. If it runs like a clock after set up, I'll tighten the tappets a little.Like I said,old habits.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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