Jump to content

Oil which?


wambiker

Recommended Posts

Hi all, I'm sure this must have been covered in the past but can't find it in technical topics anywhere. What type of oil is best for V11s. I have semi-synthetic in at the moment and have done 2500 miles in the 1st 5 weeks that I've had it :bier: so will be looking at changing it soon. Also what mileage is normal for oil changes. I intend to drop the pan to clean the screen as well as change filter. I have always thought oil and filters to a damn site cheaper than engine rebuilds. My bike is a 2000 V11 in glorious Green, and I'm having a ball with it. :bike: Sorry if this is old ground but you guys seem to be the best source of genuine advice and wisdom.

Cheers Gary :helmet:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guest Nogbad

I'm running Castrol GTD 10W-40 at the moment, ok it's diesel car oil, but consumption is a lot less than it was with the same grade bike oil.

 

I'm intending to change oil every 4000 miles and the filter every 12000 as recommended by someone I can't recall, but it seems sensible to me and avoids too much sump dropping.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gary, there's a lot written about oil in the archives and you will gather from that everyone has their own preference. Pete Roper, an acknowledged Guzzi expert claims any old 20w-50 will do since the Guzzi engine is anything but high tech.

I've used 20w-50 BMW dino for the initial run in and then changed to Amsoil 20w-50. I like the heavier oil for the high temps here in Texas.

Change frequency is 3000 miles.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Guzzi manual says to use Agip racing 4T 20W50 which is a synthetic oil. Agip seems to be unobtainable in the UK so I use Motul 300V 15W50 synthetic which you can get from Hein Gericke. Blooming expensive though. Mobil 1 15W50 is cheaper and more readily available (Halfords etc) so I might change to that next time. I’m sure an unsophisticated engine like the V11 could run on multigrade but if Guzzi recommend synthetic then that’s what I’ll use. Good oil is key to engine longevity so I think it’s worth the money.

I’ve never managed to remove the filter through the access hole despite trying bought and home-made filter tools so I drop the sump and use a strap-wrench. The sump usually needs a clean up anyway so it’s worth the extra bit of effort. The current gasket has been reused twice so far with no leaks.

I've followed the recommended 6000 mile change frequency so far but with 27000 miles on the clock I'll be reducing this to 5000 for the next couple of changes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest MikeC

Mobil-1 in the engine, tranny and bevel. If it's good enough for Nascar's it's good enough for me, plus it's inexpensive and available everywhere. I change the oils and filter every 3k on both my Guzzi's.

 

I know you didn't ask but I use Bel-Ray in the forks which I change every other season.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Motul synthetic, I let it go for 6K between changes like the manual says. I imagine Dino would be at least as good but not for as long...........Prolly don't matter much, most of the big mileage guzzi guys i know used any old stuff as long as they changed it frequently.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I love oil threads.

Whether you use synthetic or crude oil based oil is really based on how cheap you are. One thing I can say is not to even bother spending the extra money on semi-synthetics. There is no minimum guideline on percentage of volume of synthetics, so you just don't know if you are getting 50/50 or 90/10 or 10/90 mix. So don't bother.

The thickness viscosity is of little concern, IF, you use full synthetic, as it simply does not alter it's viscosity through heat variables, and mineral grade most definitely does.

If you plan on changing your oil based on the owners manual specs [10,000kms] you had better be using full synthetic. Period.

In early May I ran my Laverda from Vancouver B.C. to Los Angeles CA., 3.300 miles return, whilst running 15-50 Mobil 1 black cap [motorcycle happy API spec SG] and a buddy ran his Laverda down as well, in exact state of tune, running Castrol GTX motorcycle happy 20-50 mineral gradeAPI spec SG. In L.A., his oil was charcoal black, in fact burnt, not darkened from carbon deposits. My oil was the color of honey. His oil dripped off of the dipstick like water, mine dripped off like fresh oil. He changed his oil, I ran my bike back home. At home his oil was burnt to shit black, mine was the color of honey. His dripped like water, mine like oil.

By all means use mineral grade oil if that is what you budget, but you better change it after every 2000miles/3000kms, because it will be toast.

If synthetic, avoid Motul, only because it is stupidly priced. There are good bike synthetics at less than half Motul's.

Ciao, Steve G.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I knew Pete Roper would pipe up into this thread!

 

A true old Guzzi fart. :D

 

(PS Motul is stupid priced, but it's what my local guy carries and I'm doing a change a year --- not an expense to worry over. I buy the filters in bulk tho!)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have tried a couple synthetic bike oils, Repsol, and some french stuff beginning with the letter M, but for some reason, the maxima semi synthetic seems to burn less. Not sure why :huh2: Maybe because it is a 20W-50???

I want to try their full synthetic, but it is expensive:

http://www.maximausa.com/

I also tried automotive Mobil 1 5w-50 and found that the engine was noisy, so I pulled that out at 1000 miles.

Also, I will argue that smart, frugal people use synthetic because it is cheaper after labor costs.

Of course if you have lots of time and want to change the dino every 2000 miles, be my guest.

Synthetics do last at least one and a half times as long.

I change mine every 3000 miles...perhaps that is obsessive, but the bike is quieter, and better protected.

Of course I could put the money in the bank and save up for new engine. :grin:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest SDKFZ111

I was using Silkolene 20W 50 mineral oil but they no longer make mineral oil,so this week folks I'm using their semi synthetic 20w 50, not 15w 50 as they recommend in my owners hand book.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...