Guest ratchethack Posted January 3, 2006 Share Posted January 3, 2006 There's a tunnel between the inboard side of the head and the plug side. If that o-ring weeps, the oil leaks down the tunnel to the plug side of th head and gets blown back and on your knees or throttle bodies. It often looks like it's coming from the rocker cover. Greg, this is the first time I've heard about this and it's still a bit of a mystery, or maybe I'm just being dense? Many kinds of heads I'm familiar with have "air tunnels" in 'em, but I sure has heck can't find one on the Guz, and I've had the rocker shafts out to re-torque the heads, so I had the oil gallery plugs out. The only "tunnel" I became aware of in re-torquing the heads is the internal oil gallery itself. Seems to me that the plugs in question (with the o-rings) seal the oil gallery off from the rocker cavity. Am I dreaming this up?? I don't have any leak (yet) but I want to know where to watch for it. Can you gimme another clue? TIA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchbob Posted January 3, 2006 Share Posted January 3, 2006 Blue Hylomar. Thinly, on one side, smear of grease on the other. The Guzzi factory had bathtub caulkers employed to assemble engines in 2002, it seems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 There's a tunnel between the inboard side of the head and the plug side. If that o-ring weeps, the oil leaks down the tunnel to the plug side of th head and gets blown back and on your knees or throttle bodies. It often looks like it's coming from the rocker cover. 72940[/snapback] Hey Greg - You probably didn't see my last question. I've got a small amount of slow oil seepage with no obvious source. The oil appears under the top fin of the head (not over it!) on the inboard front of the left cylinder and seeps down two fins. It's clearly NOT coming from the rocker cover, and it's clearly NOT coming from the oil line fitting in the head. I'm still baffled by your mention of the "tunnel" that evidently can allow oil to run from the inboard side of the head from under the plug and o-ring to the outboard side. Could there be a connection? I'm obviously missing something here?! Could you clarify? Many Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macguzzi Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 Hey Greg - You probably didn't see my last question. I've got a small amount of slow oil seepage with no obvious source. The oil appears under the top fin of the head (not over it!) on the inboard front of the left cylinder and seeps down two fins. It's clearly NOT coming from the rocker cover, and it's clearly NOT coming from the oil line fitting in the head. I'm still baffled by your mention of the "tunnel" connecting the inboard side of the head to the internal oil gallery plug and o-ring. Could there be a connection? I'm obviously missing something here?! Could you clarify? Many Thanks! 74332[/snapback] Could be your o rings on studs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 Could be your o rings on studs 74431[/snapback] Mac, I've retorqued the heads after break-in, but never had 'em off. How many studs have O-rings that seal 'em off from oil galleries - and would it be reasonable to expect 'em to go south after 30K mi? Might be getting closer than I'd planned to time for inspection of valve guides after all...and de-carb heads, etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike wilson Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 With the small blocks, on initial release, the first thing listed in the workshop manual under special tools was a block of Devcon epoxy putty for dealing with porous castings. I assumed that its listing position was a sign of its importance. I was right. Maybe you have a slightly porous head? (Don't take that personally....) 8-))) m Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 Hmmmmmm.....It's a thought. But has there ever been a case of a porous head casting on a V11? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Field Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 Hmmmmmm.....It's a thought. But has there ever been a case of a porous head casting on a V11? 74629[/snapback] Sorry, haven't been paying attention. Apparently I wasn't when I wrote the tunnel bit, either. That's only on the older bikes. That access plug can still leak on the newer ones, though, and gravity will carry any oil that leaks to the outboard side of the head. I use Permatex thread sealer on those plugs, and then they stop leaking until next removed. I could also be a porous casting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 Greg, Mac, Mike - thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted March 19, 2006 Share Posted March 19, 2006 So here's a shot of what I was referring to in post #18. Since the leak doesn't seem to be goin' away by itself, I reckon I've got to go after it. My heads are still "virgin" (never been off). My plan of action is to order everything I'll need at minimum in advance to do a valve guide inspection (30K miles), with the distinct possibility of K-lining the guides, and keeping a weather eye toward potential valve replacement if the stems are goin' out o' spec. I'm assuming doing the usual valve spring measurements and de-carbonizing the heads and piston crowns. I'm ordering head gaskets, but what o-rings do I need to ask for with my order, how many, and what else should I order and/or look for while I'm at it? Many thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Field Posted March 19, 2006 Share Posted March 19, 2006 I you are only taking if heads, you need 4 o-rings per side. If cylinders, too, you need 6 per side. I can't remember the part number, but whomever you roder from will know it. Get also the o-rings for the plugs that cover the holes for the short inboard studs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ratchethack Posted March 19, 2006 Share Posted March 19, 2006 Thanks, Greg. No other nasty little hobgoblins to look for while I'm in there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callison Posted March 19, 2006 Share Posted March 19, 2006 I've never been able to get the cardboard valve cover gaskets (or oil pan sump gasket) to last for more than 4 years before getting too brittle to re-use. Never had a leak either. Now, what was the question... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Field Posted March 19, 2006 Share Posted March 19, 2006 Blow clean the oil passages in the rocker spindles. Check the wear on the rocker pads that press open the valves. If there is wear, draw-file them flat and polish with fine sandpaper or buff them. Check for wear on the tops of valve stems. Drawfile them flat, if necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaing Posted March 19, 2006 Share Posted March 19, 2006 So here's a shot of what I was referring to in post #18 82707[/snapback] Isn't that just the oil blowing by the cover gaseket, down the threads and out of a tapping hole or out of porous heads? Solution, new gasket???? Greg said, "and gravity will carry any oil that leaks to the outboard side of the head." and Ratchet's leak is on the inboard side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now