Jump to content

Tranny and rear lube changes


Guest ckamin

Recommended Posts

I was going to change the fluids in the rear and in the tranny. A few questions...

 

1) Bel Ray lube was recommended. Anyone in agreement or disagreement?

2) Should both be done with the bike level or on the sidestand?

3) How much? The manual isn't the clearest in the world. For the tranny, is it the bottom of the sightglass?

 

Thanks mucho!

 

-Carl

Link to comment
Share on other sites

(Sigh!) Yes, the book is crap.

 

Engine oil is checked with the bike upright and the dipstick screwed into the case.

 

Gearbox? Bike upright and filled to middle of sight glass.

 

Bevelbox. Use the level plug if you wish otherwise just drain it and put in the specified amount of EP90 and a squirt of snot.

 

Change it, check it, stop bloody worrying. People carry on as if their oil level drops in any part of the bike by more than 20cc it's going to fall in a molten heap. It's not. Overfilling is also unlikely to cause a major problems as long as it's not extreme. Stop worrying. Go ride!

 

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest redguzziv10

while the subject of bevel box has come up - can anyone tell me if the outside needle bearings (the one exposed to elements) has a shim or spacer around it.

It looks to be aluminium about 5mm between inside and outside diameters, and is slightly recessed 0.5 - 1mm but i cant seem to remove it. Before i try brute force, maybe it doesn't come out.

I only ask because it looks pretty mangled up, as though it had been grinding pebbles in it for some time.

oh, and once again, the manual isn't too clear

thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was going to change the fluids in the rear and in the tranny. A few questions...

 

1) Bel Ray lube was recommended. Anyone in agreement or disagreement?

2) Should both be done with the bike level or on the sidestand?

3) How much? The manual isn't the clearest in the world. For the tranny, is it the bottom of the sightglass?

 

Thanks mucho!

 

-Carl

75161[/snapback]

 

Pete is absolutely right. There is so much nervousness about an ounce plus or minus. If level is anywhere in the sight glass you are plenty safe. Some say too high will push it out of the breather. That has never happened to me so I'm thinking it would have to be to the top of, or past the glass for that to happen.

I use Redline shockproof heavy and it shifts like a dream. Major improvement over the stock stuff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pete, what is a "squirt of snot"?

 

Everyone, thanks for your replies!

 

-Carl

75199[/snapback]

 

 

I think he means Molykote- if you use Motul gear oil there is an additive which means you don't need to worry about adding snot.

 

Guy :helmet:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've always thought the old "Moly argument"--which this thread is not--an odd one for Guzzi owners (btw, it's now up and running on the WildGuzzi site). I mean, the company has always specified it for the rear drive boxes, and it doesn't cost much to use. Check your owners manual, and you'll find it there. Anyway, I guess we're a rather cheap lot, so there are many Guzzi riders out there that have never used it and have never had a problem and will be more than happy to report this fact. I use it because it's easy, cheap, and is really an effective additive for ultra-high gear contact stresses (it's not snake oil).

 

You can buy the stuff from your Guzzi dealer, or from any number of other sources. Likely you will not find it at your corner auto-supply store.

 

For only $2,300 you can buy a 55 gallon drum of the stuff and keep the entire U.S. Guzzi fleet supplied (you only need less than an oz of moly in the box).

 

You can also order more reasonable amounts at:

http://www.guarddogmoly.com/index.shtml

 

molydrum.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was going to change the fluids in the rear and in the tranny. A few questions...

 

1) Bel Ray lube was recommended. Anyone in agreement or disagreement?

2) Should both be done with the bike level or on the sidestand?

3) How much? The manual isn't the clearest in the world. For the tranny, is it the bottom of the sightglass?

 

Thanks mucho!

 

-Carl

75161[/snapback]

 

 

1.I use Motorex lubes for the bevel and Agip,or Motorex , or Motul for the Gearbox.At the viscosity values suggested.

Motorex also makes a special additive for the back bevel( use it Instead of the Moly thing) called HPLS gear additive. :thumbsup: Specially made for back bevels' like Guzzi's (AFAIK) perhaps is also O.K for the gearbox but dunno :huh2:

 

Where do you find this?

Try here :Stein Dinse

 

 

2. You have(better) to place the bike on level to drop off all the old stuff .

 

 

3. Sth like 280-320 ml, Rock till you drop is the technique here. Just fill in 'till the back-middle hole (yes unscrew this bolt also) drops some oil out (both tranny and gearbox applictions)

Be carefull and after the 280ml try waiting a bit till you fill gain, because of the thickness of the viscosity oil tend to level correctly a bit slow.

gearbox gets about 750-800ml.

Some use just one liter for both devided at 750 and 250 ml to gearbox and back bevell respectivelly.(plus 20grm for the additive at the back) and you're done. ;)

Edited by Alex-Corsa
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My book says rear drive holds 370 ml ( 350 ml 80w/90 and 20 ml Molykote type A). Richardson in Guzziology warns that pouring the oil in the rear drive until it runs out the level hole is likely to underfill as the oil cascades off one of the gears and out the hole. By careful measuring I found my bevel box 20% low from this method. Now I always measure and like to use the Guzzi Final Drive oil that contains the moly.

 

The gearbox holds 850 ml. It's easy to like the Redline products and they have a lovely color. Overfilling may irritate any leak tendencies your box may have.

 

Bel Ray makes good products. I e-mailed them once about their waterproof grease as an application for the Guzzi final drive. I think they're still laughing about the specifications I asked about.

 

The book says: " To lubricate the cardan transmissions, only use saponifying greasers (sic) with lithiumof a grade 2 consistency, 265/295 penetration and with a dropping point of about 180 degrees. The lubricants must not containadditives with MOS2."

 

Other than the widely held notion that rhino jizz will do, just what does all that relly mean?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My book says rear drive holds 370 ml ( 350 ml 80w/90 and 20 ml Molykote type A). Richardson in Guzziology warns that pouring the oil in the rear drive until it runs out the level hole is likely to underfill as the oil cascades off one of the gears and out the hole. By careful measuring I found my bevel box 20% low from this method. Now I always measure and like to use the Guzzi Final Drive oil that contains the moly.

 

The gearbox holds 850 ml. It's easy to like the Redline products and they have a lovely color. Overfilling may irritate any leak tendencies your box may have.

 

They changed the capacity on the V11 already :blush: , In the sporti is 750 and 250 according to manual.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They changed the capacity on the V11  already :blush:  , In the sporti is 750 and 250 according to manual.

75364[/snapback]

 

 

Yup, the six speeders use not only a different gearbox but a different bevelbox too. There is virtually nothing in common between the two.

 

pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...