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Where does your V11 Sport/LeMans idle?


  

70 members have voted

  1. 1. Where does your V11 Sport/LeMans idle?

    • Less than 1000 RPM
      5
    • ~1000 RPM
      20
    • ~1100 RPM
      25
    • ~1200 RPM
      4
    • ~1300 RPM
      5
    • More than 1300 RPM
      2


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...just curious.

 

I got my bike back from the shop, and although the "hot stall" issue still happens, it is better. But as I sit at idle, it will hiccup a bit about every 45 seconds, and it just seems a bit laboured, like it's turning a bit too slow. And occasionally it will die.

 

I talked with Mike Rich(who did the heads) and he said he just had this same issue with a fella's Scura, and first-and-formost after getting the TBs synched, he said that he's found that the new V11 Sports/LeMans need to have their idle at about 1200-1300 RPM because the crank and flywheel are lighter than the older bikes, and apparenlty some of the cruisers. So if you are idling too low(my Tach indicates 1000-1100 RPM) you will get stumbling and an occasional burp because of the lack of inertia... which of course is exactly what I am seeing.

 

In the end though, after tuning the TBs, air-mixture, etc... he finally got rid of all surging, etc by putting a PCIII on the guy's Scura.

 

I'm in the process now of finding the most recommended certified Dyno Tuning Center around San Jose, but I want to get the bike running as well as possible before overlaying the PCIII.

 

So first, what does your bike idle at?

 

thx :thumbsup:

 

al

 

 

P.S.

 

BTW, I realize that our OEM tach is not the most accurate instrument in the world :lol: But I'm just trying to get a general feel, plus without my PCIII currently installed, there isn't any other way for me to gauge my RPM any more accurately anyway :wacko:

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With my sport's tps set to spec the bike runs a bit rich and behaves at idle as you describe.(Worse when hot in hot weather). At 23,000 miles I found that it was much more stable idling with the air bypass at 1 full turn. I'm trying 3/4 turn now to see how it will behave.

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Guest Jeff Kelland

Mine used to behave as you describe, I brought it to the dealer. They told me it was due to lean conditions caused because of epa rules. They said I could have it remapped to canadian or european specs and the trouble would go away. They also said that they could not do it because they didn't have the equipment. Strange however that after I picked up the bike, these problems have almost diappeared. It's not perfect, it will on rare occasions act like it wants to stall, but it doesn't. It idles steady at 1000 +or- 50 rpm. Did they do something?, they don't remember. Did it just break in a little? I don't know. I have a pc111 on order, waiting 3 weeks now, general consensus seems to be that this will cure the remaining problem which is severe pinging if I grab a mit full of throttle under 5000 rpm. Other than that and a small, and I do mean small, torque dip at about 4700-4900, this little Le Mans really runs pretty good overall. :helmet:

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Yo,

 

To set the idle speed, do not go by the Guzzi tachometer. On the 00 models, the tachometer is at least 300 rpm. off (fast). I can get a great idle at 1000 to 1100 rpm. but that is with the valve adjustment larger than the euro specs. The first time I went to the larger valve lash, the bike idled a few hundred rpm. faster. I turned down the idle speed and was amazed how smooth the bike idled. I have talked to other V11 owners that have experenced the same thing.

 

I have also noticed in the past, that the bike idles differently with different brand fuels. My bike idled best with Chevron and was at least 100 rpm. slower with Shell. Of cource the California fuel has been changing especially with the removal of the MTBE's.

 

I have leaned out my idle mixture with the PCIII, it would run rich at idle and very rich when the weather temps gets in the 90's. It now idles smooth at all tempertures and I do not get the rich exhaust smell when in traffic.

 

Mike

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I voted that I am below 1000. The bike however idles roughly at about 900rpms. I have probably stalled with a hot engine at a red light about three times in the last 1000 miles or so.

The bike would be better set at about 1000 rpm. The dealer initially had it set to about 1200rpms. I found at that speed it would clunk going from neutral to first. I set it to 1000 rpms and was running fine there. I put the new muffler on and the rpms dropped. I have been meaning to adjust it, but have been lazy.

I also found as Mike Stewart suggested, that valve adjustment makes a difference to the idle speed. I also suspect that a larger gap produces a smoother power band with less of holes, but less peaks too. But, it is just a suspicion.

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Guest scottd132

" Where does your V11 Sport/LeMans idle?"

 

It doesn't...........................

 

Unfortunately

 

Scott :lol:

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  • 8 months later...
Guest gooddog

My bike seems to idle ideally at 1100-1200 rpms. at the lower settings i've had the hot engine cough as well. it was sputtering at about 2500-3000, 2nd gear cruising in traffic. I'd have to up the fast idle to keep it afloat. now that it's set higher no issues.

 

scott, what's wrong with your sport? i know that you had a reocurring set up issue in the past.

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I'd like to answer the poll, but my bike seems to idle differently depending on whether is it a full moon or not. :lol:

 

Seems happiest around 1100 or more.

 

My straight-cut timing gears will be going on soon, so hopefully that will rule out timing chain slop as a potential factor. :bier:

 

__Jason

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...boy it's a good thing Will Creedon isn't on this list, otherwise you'd get an ear-full of his opinion on gears :lol: ...although Pete Roper might chime-in as well :rolleyes:

 

 

From what I've seen written, I don't think that gears will really "tighten up" the timing on these bikes much, as the stock chain seems OK and quite reliable.

 

If I hadn't read so many horror-stories about the aluminum gears(versus unobtanium steel gears), I'd definitely go for it just for the SOUND though ^_^ My friend's VFR sounds soooo cool "whining" along :bike:

 

Opinions vary of course, but the various reviews of galled and worn low-mileage aluminum gears frightens me :huh:

 

...now if someone just made a quality set of steel kit, along with the appropriate mod instructions for oiling, etc... but alas, they don't :unsure: It would be quite expensive I'm sure anyway :wacko:

 

 

al

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Yeah... I've heard from folks that like them, and folks that don't. I figured the only way to find out for myself was to try them.

 

I'm curious to hear how the gears sound! :grin:

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Yeah... I've heard from folks that like them, and folks that don't. I figured the only way to find out for myself was to try them.

 

I'm curious to hear how the gears sound! :grin:

 

 

Understood, and I thought the same... but then thought about it being worth the risk it if I got a bunch of aluminum sludge in the oil just for a test :huh2:

 

Let us know how it goes :)

 

al

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Guest jlburgess

Since my tach is off by nearly 500 rpm too optomistic, my idle is about 1700 rpm displayed, but about 1200 shown through the Powercommander S/W. I'm running the valves .05" over from MGNA specs for better idle though. Works great - no stalling. :grin:

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I idle cleanly around 1000, using a lab scope, with the looser valve specs; 0.15mm in and 0.20mm ex if I recall. When I orginally bought the bike it barley idled at 1300 and would stall regularly and occasionally back fire and blow the TB's out. Dealer twiddled but it never helped. The looser valve spec made a huge differnce.

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I'm running 0.10/0.15mm clearances (4 and 6 thou for our imperial friends) and according to Mr Veglia idle is just above 1 division (~500 rpm) but seems much happier at around 2 divisions (~700 rpm). I think the actual value is probably closer to 1000 rpm (...?) Once warm tick-over is no problem.

 

Gio

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