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Guest Nogbad

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Did a 90 mile round trip on the V11 this morning.

 

Very cold, engine would barely turn on the 6.5 year old ORIGINAL Spark 500 Guzzi battery, but the engine fired and ran even with a sluggish turn.

 

Gerbing electrically heated gloves are great! Even with 100 mph wind chill my little fairy fingers were toasty.

 

Topped up the yak fat so that the stick reads full with the bike upright and the stick not screwed in. At the risk of starting an oil thread, I think plenty of clean fat is more important by far than the type of fat.

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Topped up the yak fat so that the stick reads full with the bike upright and the stick not screwed in. At the risk of starting an oil thread, I think plenty of clean fat is more important by far than the type of fat.

 

Another Guzzi advantage: due to the car-like dry clutch design, you can use car-like modern "friction modified" yak fat available at any stop'n'rob. 99&44/100% of other motorcycles have to avoid that stuff like the plague, or end up w/ slipping clutches... :thumbsup:

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Another Guzzi advantage: due to the car-like dry clutch design, you can use car-like modern "friction modified" yak fat available at any stop'n'rob. 99&44/100% of other motorcycles have to avoid that stuff like the plague, or end up w/ slipping clutches... :thumbsup:

 

True true. Interestingly, the Buell, whilst it has a wet clutch, the engine oil is entirely separate from the tranny / primary case / clutch oil so I guess it would be true of that bike as well.

 

Guzzichondriac! -_-

 

It's only a mild case though :bbblll:

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Did a 90 mile round trip on the V11 this morning.

 

Very cold, engine would barely turn on the 6.5 year old ORIGINAL Spark 500 Guzzi battery, but the engine fired and ran even with a sluggish turn.

 

Gerbing electrically heated gloves are great! Even with 100 mph wind chill my little fairy fingers were toasty.

 

Topped up the yak fat so that the stick reads full with the bike upright and the stick not screwed in. At the risk of starting an oil thread, I think plenty of clean fat is more important by far than the type of fat.

Gosh you had to bring up the oil thing.

All I'll say is, is that if you are using synthetic yak spit, your bike will not labour on the start like it did with non-synthetic yak spit.

Ciao, Steve

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Guzzichondriac! -_-

Keep working on Nogbad.

You obviously made a dent in his sensibilities.

I just hope he is not running straight 50 weight no name oil that he last changed four years ago.

But itza guzzi! :mg: And will still last many miles.....as long as one keeps replacing the parts :lol:

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Keep working on Nogbad.

You obviously made a dent in his sensibilities.

I just hope he is not running straight 50 weight no name oil that he last changed four years ago.

But itza guzzi! :mg: And will still last many miles.....as long as one keeps replacing the parts :lol:

 

Hah! At least I'm running some oil!

 

(Actually it's Castrol GTD 10W40 last changed 4000 miles ago and due another one shortly, though I confess to topping it off with 15W50 own brand Stop'n'Rob mineral this morning, since I think enough of any oil is better than too little fancy oil)

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Another Guzzi advantage: due to the car-like dry clutch design, you can use car-like modern "friction modified" yak fat available at any stop'n'rob. 99&44/100% of other motorcycles have to avoid that stuff like the plague, or end up w/ slipping clutches... :thumbsup:

 

 

I'd strongly advise against using an FM oil in any air cooled engine. The FM's are a major contributor to bore glazing in air cooled donks, I have no idea why but as I said, I'd advise against 'em in our bikes.

 

Pete

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I'd strongly advise against using an FM oil in any air cooled engine. The FM's are a major contributor to bore glazing in air cooled donks, I have no idea why but as I said, I'd advise against 'em in our bikes.

 

Pete

 

Thanks for that info, Pete: I'll keep it in mind...

:o

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I think Gebings may have been the end of my 5 year old stock battery. While the gloves are dreamy, running gloves and a full jacket is delightful Yet ( I learned the hard way) keeping the revs above 4000 is darned important when your alternator is rated at 10,000 rpm. Even then 99 watts is a lot to draw on the system.

 

Still, the old battery did not fail but just got sluggish enough to warrant replacement with the Hawker Odyssey ( what a huge difference!).

 

I've not tried running gloves and jacket together since.

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I think Gebings may have been the end of my 5 year old stock battery. While the gloves are dreamy, running gloves and a full jacket is delightful Yet ( I learned the hard way) keeping the revs above 4000 is darned important when your alternator is rated at 10,000 rpm. Even then 99 watts is a lot to draw on the system.

 

Still, the old battery did not fail but just got sluggish enough to warrant replacement with the Hawker Odyssey ( what a huge difference!).

 

I've not tried running gloves and jacket together since.

 

Uhm ... possibly posted in the wrong thread, docc? ;)

 

You gotta remember there are guys like me who get oil and elec threads confused. :P

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Well, I went back to post #1 and Nog did mention the Gerbings gloves.

 

I, in fact, started to post some oil shite but deleted it all. The only oil I know about is the Islay stuff that opens nicely with a splash. The Lagavulin is absolutely tits but I can't afford it. So it's Laphroig at best . I'm sure it contributes to the Sport's reliability and, therefor, must bear mentioning in this thread.

 

I did have all my oil bottles out tonight, reading and fretting over cylinder glazing. I think the new Mobil 1 is SM rated but I can't find the rebate for the whips and chains . . .

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I think the new Mobil 1 is SM rated but I can't find the rebate for the whips and chains . . .

 

Wasn't there a voucher to cover that? :whistle:

 

Free with every tin........... 15 minutes with Miss Whiplash! :)

 

I'm sure there was with mine! ;)

 

Nige. B)

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:bbblll: Stuff it Nog! Between what Guzzi buggered, what my dealer buggered and what I've buggered, reliability may never again be used in the same sentence as my bike.

 

On the plus side, I got her back together over Xmas. Suspension, running gear, bearings, fluids should be sorted. Next - pull the bottom of the motor apart and install slopper/change shells.

 

Last will be TB balance, TPS, replace crappy plastic temp sensor with brass. Might even swap in a new sensor as I think my mileage problems might partly lie here.

 

If that sorts things, then dyno tune and replace levers and damper. If not she goes on the block. Or in the chuck.

 

:huh: Thought I bought this thing so I wouldn't have to work on it.... at least not so soon... or so much.

 

Happy New Year everybody!

 

Rj

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