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VtwinStorm

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Posts posted by VtwinStorm

  1. 4 minutes ago, VtwinStorm said:

    Hey all, took a tumble in December on the right side, replacing mirrors, engine head crash guards and my rear brake lever...and boy, is it ON!

    Even after CRC Freeze-off!

    Brake bar? What am I missing here?

     

    Nevermind....got here loose...breaker bar it was! Love this bike!

    • Like 1
  2. 9 hours ago, GuzziMoto said:

    I get that. And to an extent that is a good idea. But when I put a Lithium battery in my '07 Griso 1100 it didn't work that way. Like many fuel injected bikes my Griso will abort the start attempt if the voltage drops below the required threshold. And it doesn't turn on the headlight when not running, only the running light. And that doesn't seem to have enough current draw to warm the battery. Later versions of the Griso would run the starter anyway if you held the starter button down. But the early versions would not. So, on my Griso, the Lithium battery was a fail. And the weight savings was unnoticeable, a few pounds saved on a 500 pound motorcycle is insignificant.

    The technology is improving. And not only for weight savings but for energy density. The amount of power they are fitting into such small packages is amazing. We are currently running a Lithium battery in the wife's Monster and have two 100A Lithium batteries in our RV. I can see eventually all our battery applications could end up being Lithium.  But currently for some of our applications a lead acid battery is still the better choice. The Odyssey battery that got pulled out of the wife's V11 is still running my lawn tractor. It is easily more than ten years old. It just keeps going. That said, our EV has a Lithium battery.

    Exactly. Lithium batteries aren't some panacea for all of us.

    • Like 2
  3. 4 hours ago, MartyNZ said:

    I have a LiFePO4 type Shorai battery in my bike. For cold starting, they say: "If starting at 5°C, headlights on for 30 seconds will help wake the battery and increase cranking performance. If at -17°C, leave the lights on for 4~5 minutes before cranking. The result will be a better first crank, and longer battery life.  If the engine fails to start on first crank, that first crank has warmed the battery, and the second attempt will be much stronger."

    So Phil makes a good point.

    Had a Shorai in my Daytona 1200. Electrical system, carbs, plugs, wires, all were on-point.

    Thought I'd save a few lbs. on a 556lb. bike.

    Nope. Lithium is useless for my applications.

    After 2 weeks dancing and praying for it to work, bought a heavy AGM Yuasa. Started 1st time at 46 degrees...with a set of four carbs and a heavy 1200cc to turn over.

    That lithium battery would have blown my sprag clutch if I kept trying until it decided to start my bike.

    Clack clack clack...that was my sprag getting destroyed one attempt at a time. That's an engine out job...no thank you!

    I will say, that lithium battery was a very light paperweight!

    • Like 3
  4. 55 minutes ago, ScuRoo said:

    Fair enough - but in that case just get a LiFePO4 snowmobile battery - massive CCA & designed for extreme cold starts.

    Operating Temperature
    -30 °C to +60 °C

    Capacity vs Temperature
    25 °C = 100%

    0°C = 94%

    -30°C = 88%

    https://earthxbatteries.com/product/etz14c/
    EarthX seems to have an worthy reputation on snowmobile forums.

     

    I doubt these fit a V11 Sport.

    I'm not getting burned and wasting money on a lithium battery ever again.

  5. 2 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:

    With a LiPo battery in cold climes you need to turn the headlight on for a minute or two before you try and crank the big twin to warm the battery up. This is the accepted process.

    Ciao

    Did that with my Triumph...multiple times. Didn't work.

    Not throwing away another $200+ to experience the same with my Guzzi.

    If I lived in Texas or Australia, fine. But not in New England. The tech isn't ready for "the rest of us" in less than warm climes.

    • Like 1
  6. 20 hours ago, ScuRoo said:

    Hey VtwinStorm

    Move on from AGM. All you’re doing is lugging an anchor around - & imo the old PC545’s are waaay overrated now.

    These have proved to be superior in every way in a V11 - even with Mike Rich HC pistons.

    Prismatic cells LiFePO4 battery with BMS (battery management system) is best. 

    https://www.batterybusiness.com.au/store/product_detail/ssb-high-performance-lithium-battery-lh7l-bs

    Listed as suitable for Bimota 1100 SB6 four cylinder & TM 530 thumper engines - so our relatively lower compression twins are a breeze.

    So small - so light - in time any initial disbelieving trust issues just eventually evaporate away!

    Problem is, I live in the cold, New England.

    I don't live in Italy or Florida.

    I like to ride when it is chilly outside.

    I bought a Lithium Iron battery for my Triumph 1200, and it was a disaster.

    I'd get 3-5 cranks from cold, and almost always..."clack clack clack" of the sprag clutch.

    Installed a new Yuasa AGM, fires right up, first time, every time.

    Until I get cold start capability, I'm not switching.

    • Like 2
  7. 13 minutes ago, docc said:

    Lots of PC545 and regulator lore logged here.  The PC545 does have some rather specific charging requirements, per the manufacturer. Link to a lengthy thread, below.

    Otherwise, turn the ignition/lights on while you finish putting your helmet and gloves on, before starting. The draw will chemically warm the battery and enhance the start discharge current. I found this totally non-intuitive and hard to accept.

    Reality can be like that sometimes.  :mellow:

     

    I love you,  Docc. 

     

    Will try that @2am before I depart @430am...fingers crossed!

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