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docc

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docc last won the day on August 8

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About docc

  • Rank
    Guidare bene!
  • Birthday 10/15/1957

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  • My bikes
    2000 V11 Sport, and also Honda GB500 Tourist Trophy
  • Location
    middle Tennessee, USA

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  • Interests
    Blues bassman, bogus poet, hopeful humorist, languishing linguist, relentless tinkerer, restless wanderer.

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  1. Yeah, Cabernet had some manufactured and offered to the community back in April, 2020. Others I know have made them from Delrin. Here is Tom M's solution from 2017. Is there any factory procedure for installing the reaction rod/ "chassis rod" on the Daytona, Sport 1100, Centauro, or 1100 Sport-i? (I'm pretty sure not all those models have the same cast reaction rod.) These bolts look to be 10mm with a locking nut ("NyLoc"). in the absence of a specific torque specification, should they really be torqued to 50 Nm like any other 10mm fastener? No doubt, that much torque would pinch the forward frame bracket and "capture" the inner sleeve of the bush.
  2. Thanks, again, Lucky Phil, for the thoughtful reply. True, I've been expecting the rubber to disappear from my bushes for a long while. I cannot find anything on the "chassis rod" in the Workshop manual other than how to release the rear pivot bolt to remove the reardrive.
  3. Rose ("Heim") joints always seemed a good idea for this application. I know it has been done by some. FWIW, I didn't leave the bolts totally loose, but also did not crank them down as tight as possible. The rod will still stand straight out on its own, but will rotate under hand pressure. Maybe there is an actual tightening spec in the manual, but not likely. At the very least, I should not have let all that corrosion build up in there.
  4. Many of us have been aware that the rubber part of the torque reaction rod can deteriorate or tear and become loose. It has always mystified me that the bushing appears captured by the "pivot" bolt creating (what has seemed to me) something like a "torsion rod" that would interfere, even limit, suspension movement. Seems to me it would be better for the spring and damping to work without that interference. With the reardrive off and swingarm out, my torque rod has always just stuck straight out like a . . . uh, well, stuck straight out from the bracket on the frame cross member. Sliding the rear pivot bolt through without the reardrive, I realized there is clearance for the torque rod bushing to actually pivot without "capturing" the bushing and stressing the rubber part. Upon removing the front bolt it occurred to me that I can't recall ever pulling it out . . . "OH, that's why [ it doesn't pivot ]" . . . Cleaned it up, BelRay Waterproof Grease, and only set the tightness on the locking nut to allow the torque rod to pivot without clamping the bushing hard into the bracket. Proper Witness Protection Marks to monitor and a promise to add this to the Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist . . . Friends don't let friends let their pivot bolts seize up!
  5. I've been looking over my TechPrep on the Sport for the SpineRaid: two months and about two thousand miles. Got some good things done, made a few discoveries, and got snuck up on that once . . . Down to to a rear tire (I don't want to be THAT guy, again! ) and staving off the Waddington Effect. Four weeks out! Cheers, y'all!
  6. I copied the "Image Location" from your duplicate thread and pasted into your reply, then deleted the duplicate thread. (Hope that's okay, bud . . . )
  7. @swooshdave . . . . And . . . so . . . what of this swoosh'stang?
  8. Good plan! That, Caig Deoxit®, and heat shrink on all the regulator connectors. The new stator has spade connectors to the regulator which feel quite a bit more positive in their connection than the "bullet" connectors that never felt tight. Having groomed all the connectors behind the front subframe together made the stator/regulator swap very approachable without having to pull the tank.
  9. Of course, @Guzzi2Go and @luhbo were entirely correct that in spite of all the little things I tried, the battery light flicker at idle after riding remained. Until I finally changed the regulator. Although the charging remained 14.2V or above, it appears the old regulator had "failed in a special way" and was "on its way out" with continuity developing between the red charging wire and the case. I never thought of monitoring for continuity there, but it makes sense. New regulator: no more flicker.
  10. Aye, V11 clutch makes for busy times . . .
  11. docc

    Meinolf's V11 BIN

    Yes, I typically state valve clearances Intake first, then Exhaust. I'll edit posts to make clear it is opposite.
  12. docc

    Meinolf's V11 BIN

    I had to get home to confirm in mm. I believe "world spec" is commonly thought of as 0.20/0.15mm (0.008"/0.006"), Exhaust/ Intake. Thank you, again, for sharing this with the community!
  13. docc

    Meinolf's V11 BIN

    Thanks, Meinolf! I’ll “pin” this (probably in “How to ...”). Is it acceptable to adjust V11 valves to the “world spec” with your map?
  14. Right, the raised one for fuel vapor "recovery" gets captured by a seal under the gas cap when it is closed to create a closed system (assuming the charcoal canisters and one-way check valve are installed). "Tank suck" led to some or all of this being defeated over time. If the greater gas cap seal is functional, water in "the trough" should not enter the the tank unless the drain is blocked and the level is deep enough to spill in when the cap is opened . . .
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