68C
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Posts posted by 68C
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Now you've got me worried, I started on a quick fork seal job to carry on riding in this unusually warm weather, without oil soaked brake pads! If I'm not carefull I will end up following minor defects along the bike to the tail light, don't want it to end another Great British Winter Rebuild with yet another dismantled bike in the shed. Yes, I know your in there Commando, Intercepter, kickstart Sportster, FZ750, BSA Sunbeam and the rest of you!
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Just stripped down my Ohlins forks to change the seals, had to drill out one of the bolts holding the mudgaurd. Thats when I found moderate corrosion on all four lugs that support the mudgaurd, thankfully once cleaned up and treated the fork seems usable although there is some material loss. Can't even begin to think how much Ohlins would charge for new lower legs.
I mention this as the corrosion was not obvious until dismantled, may be worth other folk with carbon bits taking a few minutes to remove the bolts to check.
An internet search shows carbon fibre is a problematical material within the aerospace and boating world, carbon fibre is a very good electrical conducter and when in contact with many metals in the presence of an electrolyte (dirty water ) will rapidly corrode due to galvanic action. Apparantly it is all to do with where the metals lie in the galvanic table, aluminium alloy in particular - but also stainless steel give problems. I have found that cheap stainless bolts will corrode in alloy unless well greased - had loads of fun drilling out the sheared stainless bolts I used to hold my old T3 exhausts pipes to the cylinder head.
The solution is to keep carbon fibre parts well insulated electrically from all metals, use thick paint, plastic washers, mylar film, jointing compounds even grease. Its carbon or graphite - not plastic!
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/corrosion/galvanic.htm
http://www.boeing.com/commercial/aeromagazine/aero_07/corrosn.html
http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/Aircraft/aircraft-design.htm
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Many thanks John, I can see how it works now.
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Hi all,
I fancy fitting a centre stand, have seen various types mentioned on the forum. Are these fitted permanantly to the bike or merely collapsible paddock stands that you carry with you? Some folk have noted problems with some aftermarket cross-over pipes - any advice? Finally I have been thinking about making my own permanantly fitted stand, has anyone elso done this, any drawings available?
Many thanks.
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Thankyou Cliff,
I had to do a web search to find out what an LC1 is, I now know it is a wide band sensor controller. Many thanks, a new trail to follow.
I am off on holiday for two weeks with my family to the Pyrenees, in our motorhome - not the Guzzi!
Please don't be offended if I don't reply to any posts for a while.
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Sorry to hear about your experiences, to be honest I was worried about getting myself in much the same situation which is why I raised the original post.
Good luck.
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I have'nt decided where to take the bike yet, there are a few around here, most seem to be DynoJet franchise. I can't see the point in fitting a PowerCommander if the stock ecu can be reprogrammed and wonder if they will only set up the Dynojet product.
I have also been looking at the MyEcu from Australia which may mean I am on my own when it comes to applying the results of a run. In all things its best to know what you want before going to buy it, hence my original post asking for advice.
There seems to be two distinct types of Dynos, absorbtion and inertia. The absorbtion being much more expensive and thus rarer but able to load your engine to any torque or HP figure and hold it while air/fuel ratios, gas analysis and any tendency to knock etc can be observed, it's what most multi-discipline engineers would regard as a true dynamometer. The inertia type (as used by the PowerCommander folk) detects the rate at which your engine can accelerate a heavy drum. I understand the original weakness of the inertia type was the short time span the test covered, once accelerated up to the max RPM its over, small engines will of course take longer than more powerfull engines but it will not record a constant state. I gather modern dynos and software have improved things though. Still not sure how you would discover what is happening at all the (240?) points of a typical map with the inertia type.
Any advice on what I should look for?
Cliff, if your there, what would you recommend I ask the dyno operator to do if using an MyEcu?
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I am thinking of taking my bike for a dyno run to set a baseline before I start tinkering.
1/ What should I do to the bike before I go, other than basic TPS setup and valve clearances?
2/ What do I ask the dyno people to do? I am a road rider and interested in low to mid range rather that max power.
3/ Do they normally map my ecu for me as it is before any changes?
4/ Do they normally make changes to the map or just suggest them?
5/ What should I expect to happen when I go for this run?
6/ What should I watch out for, how do I know if they know what they are doing?
7/ How long does it normally take?
Am I right in thinking the idea is to run the engine with the throttle set to specific positions to match the cells of the map and then load it to a particular RPM and so find out what air/fuel ratio is actually being generated at these points of the map.
You may ask why I want to do this dyno run, curiosity is probably the strongest reason - to find out if there are any noticeable changes they can make to set my individual bike up for the way I normally ride.
I don't like very noisy exhausts so will probably stay standard, may mess around with the intake side of things, freer flowing. My bike has the front balance pipe.
So how do I normally ride? Not too much around town, 25 mile commute of which about 15 is along the busy dual carriagway over the New Forest and the rest twisty lanes, fifty mile rides with friends - we rarely exceed the ton - they like the twisty bits so I will need good drive out of forty mph corners.
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Thanks, you described it as a switching probe, I suppose this is what I have found listed as a narrow band. I am now thinking I had best get a spare ecu and go the MY15M route, Cliff has let me know price etc.
Actually I was a little suprised at getting a reply from Cliff Himself (spelt G.O.D.)I felt like the headmaster had approached me in the playground and asked to see my project.
I am finding this fuel injection business fascinating, shame I am probably too old now to take advantage of it. Unlike the guy in the movies, the first thing I know about the wine bottle being dropped is when it hits my toe, so much for snakelike reactions.
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Although my bike is running OK, I understood - perhaps mistakenly - that our machines are set up weak to meet emission regulations, I assumed that the purpose of the lamda probe was to enable the ecu to run at the correct air/fuel ratio as it will know what is actually happening rather than assume. I am beginning to think I may be on the wrong track as looking through other threads suggests folk are keen to remove these probes rather than fit them. Thank you Cliff for sending me price and availability of the MY15M ecu and optimiser.
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I've had a look at the wiring diagram for the with and without catalyser bikes, although my bike is non-cat the wiring harness definitely has the four pin plug for the lamda probe - even the colour coding matches up, I suppose the factory simplified production by using one harness for both. The diagnostic socket of course has only three pins. However as you rightly pointed out my bike does not have the IAW15RC ecu, I guess that is the real difference, I was hoping that as my bike has the required harness it would be simple matter of just fitting the probe. I am not sure what the difference is between the 15M and the 15RC ecu, is it just mapping or software that could be changed? Thanks for your replies.
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My 2004 Lemans Rosso Corsa, which has a IAW15M ecu, does not have a lamda probe but it does have an unused 4 pin socket which appears to be in the correct location to connect to one. If fit a probe is there anything else I would need to do to take advantage of better air/fuel mixture in the cruise? I understand I would need to either fit a crossover with the threaded receptacle or make one up and weld it to my crossover. Alternativly, there are large nut/adaptars on both exhaust downpipes, can I use one of these?
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I have a 2004 Lemans Rosso Corsa. with a Bridstone B020 180/55 ZR 17" rear tyre (standard for the bike)
Struggled to take my rear wheel out tonight.
I followed the instructions in the handbook but found it impossible, the axle came out easily enough but the brake caliper support remained pinned to the left swinging arm. To remove the wheel I had to also remove a spring clip and then remove a stepped allan bolt that goes through the left swinging arm, through a small square block and through the brake caliper support. Is this normal, there is no mention of it in either the instruction manual or the posts above. Initially I removed the brake caliper and the spring clip and slid the caliper support out of the way but it is still impossible ti get the wheel rim past this stepped allan bolt, it has to come out. I also found I had to force the tyre between the rear gearbox and the left swinging arm. Having got the wheel free I took the opportunity of checking the cush-drive, as many have found it was rusted solid, also used the blowlamp trick to free the allan bolts.. After much tapping, levering and application of WD40 it is now free. All has been greased and back together now. I can't believe it is so hard to remove the rear wheel - such a step foward since my old T3!
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I have been searching for the electric plugs and sockets that fit the fuel injectors and diagnostic sockets, I found this website.
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/42/category/7
I wonder if anyone knows if these are they?
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I mentioned this topic in another thread re IAW15M K line, and realised I had wandered off topic, so am re-presenting it here.
Back to my point, in the 60's I recall tuning a bike meant getting the motor as close as possible to what the designer wanted - blueprinting. Build quality was often bad, for instance I believe Norton twin barrels were bored on the same machine that bored the singles having to be unbolted from the jig and repositioned to bore the second barrel - excellent way of keeping them truly parallel. Running your finger down the inlet tract of a 650 BSA soon reveals the imperfections. Basically we used files and sandpaper to tune a motor. We could increase power but often at the expense of flexibility. Into the 70's and 80's production quality had improved to the point that polshing intakes and balancing cranks led to little improvement, we were now trying to remove the dip in mid range performance caused by noise and emission regulations, enter the DynoJet kits, freer flowing (noisier)exhausts etc. Then came fuel injection.... So what are we trying to do now? Here I am speaking of stock machines, surely the build quality is adequate, are we still trying to remove mid range power dips due to legislation , don't these clever factory maps cure this?
Why are folk re-mapping their ecu.
I have a 2004 V11 LeMans Rosso Corsa, bog standard with a crossover pipe under the alternater ( actually I wish it was under it as it seems impossible to remove the cover without removing the exhaust) and the standard centre section/crossover.
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Make sure the sych/balance rod is clear.
I had the frightening experience of the throttle jamming open the first time I took my V11 out. The rear shock remote reservoir had been mounted too far forward, the white plastic knob on the balance rod under the left throttle body caught around the reservoir pipe. Luckily it was on an open road, I thought clutch... the revs soared, front brake... I realised I would probably lock the front wheel, by now we were doing over the ton....at last I thought KILL SWITCH! This was the first time I have ever used one in anger, or fear. I remember thinking how angry my wife would be if I hurt myself. Turns out the last owner had starter relay problems and had run an emergency wire from the start motor which was left coiled up under the seat, presumably to flash to the battery to start, and had removed the reservoir for access then mounted the reservoir wrong.
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Managed to get the freeware Ducatidiag running, screen shot below
.I don't know what the ISO CODE/ecu data/ and calibration are about. No RPM showing as engine was stopped at the time. I did set my idle using this displ;ay rather than trust my rev-counter.
I am following this as I wanted to learn more about diagnostics before commiting to anything expensive.
There is a second page that allows tests of the coil, injectors, pump etc. I am a nervous to try them at this stage.
Back in 1968 when I bought my first bike, a 650 BSA A10, I recall tuning consisted of polishing ports, big carbs, open pipes and improving the airflow in general and correcting the rather poor build quality of the day in an attempt to get closer to what the designer intended. We could improve performance but only by moving the powerband around - more top end at the expense of bottom end. Into the late seventies and eighties build quality of our bikes had improved to the point little was to be gained from simple file and wet-n-dry paper. We were then trying to remove the dip in mid range performance due to the noise and to a certain degree emmision regulations, je3tting kits were all the rage. Not quite sure what one is attempting to do with modern bikes (I guess that means nineties and on), particularly fuel injected bikes. It seems to me production control has improved to the point you need to do radical work to make any change, so are we still trying to dodge that old midrange loss due to legislation or what? Sorry if it seems an odd train of thought, I guess I like tinkering but am not certain what I actually want to achieve.
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I now have the cable and have downloaded the ducatidiag software. All loaded up easily enough, the front page displayed with the ecu info , rpm temps, throttle position, etc. I have made a donation to their website and hope to receive a 'licence', this is freeware. Of course although it displayed the data this is all probably basic stuff and not truly aimed at the V11.
I did a web search earlier and had the strange experience of seeing my first post listed. I guess it's true the internet is full of information that comes from uneducated sources...me.
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Many thanks HaydnR, especially for the warning.
I followed the ebay link, have placed an order straight away. £8-90 seems a good price, I was wondering where to get the 3pin plug, had visions of trawling scrap yards. Also the software suggestion sounds a better bet than my idea, I have since found out that the Aprilia probably has a Nippon Denso ECU, not so simalar! I have just had a cataract removed so am trying to put the time off work to good use. Should be riding again in ten days or so.
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Hi all,
Can anyone tell me which is the K-line on the IAW15M ecu? I am playing around with an old VW OBDII usb cable, I know which pins are the K and L lines on the large OBDII plug but don't know which ones are which on the three pin diagnostic socket fitted to the bike.
I have a Rosso Corsa, first registered in 2004 although the frame number suggests it may have been made in 2003.
I am looking at the freeware TuneECU software, and am considering trying the Aprillia Falco software as I believe they have a similar ecu.
Thanks, any advice gratefully received.
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Hello all, got my T3 in 1979, now in the shed awaiting the Great British Winter Rebuild, so I bought a '04 Rosso Corsa. Got it off ebay, never bought a bike like that but it turned out the seller was an ex apprentice where I work so I took a chance. Bike nicer than I expected - we all know how those ebay photos can make things look better than they are. Minor defects are weeping fork seals and missing side panel badges. and that is how I came to the Forum.
Can anyone let me have a reasonably hi-res photo of the LH & RH side panel badges so I can make up a couple of decals until I can get some more cash together?
Had fun on the first ride, after ten or fifteen miles taking it easy around our country lanes I pulled onto the main road and let her go - she went allright, at 85mph I rolled off the throttle but she kept on going - at 105mph I finaly realised it would be a good idea to hit the kill switch ( never done that before in forty years of riding). Once stopped and after my heartbeat slowed I tried to restart it to no avail. Called a mate, he rolled up to laugh until he saw how white I was, we found the rear Ohlins remote reservoir was mounted too far foward and the white plastic adjuster under the left throttle body had hooked around the pipe fitting! A further look found a spurious wire running from the starter relay and coiled up under the tank, the normal lead to the starter had dropped off - probably in the unrequested mad dash I had just undertaken. I guess whoever fitted the "Get you home" wire had missmounted the reservoir. Once the starter wire was hooked back on and the reservoir remounted all was well and off I went home. Told the lads at work who wondered what I had done to upset the apprentice and admired his cunning way of seeking revenge.
PM me you email and exactly what you want and I can go snap a couple for your
Hope I am using this reply correctly, I am looking for a picture of the two badges that are attached to the side panels, I expect they say something like "V11 Lemans" with a chequered flag. The bike is a 2003 V11 Le Mans Rosso Corsa although it was registered in the first half of 2004 the frame number suggests it was made in 2003. Having just bought the bike I cannot afford the £40 for spares. I can make a decal and encapsulate it for the time being. Many thanks, Bob.
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Hello all, got my T3 in 1979, now in the shed awaiting the Great British Winter Rebuild, so I bought a '04 Rosso Corsa. Got it off ebay, never bought a bike like that but it turned out the seller was an ex apprentice where I work so I took a chance. Bike nicer than I expected - we all know how those ebay photos can make things look better than they are. Minor defects are weeping fork seals and missing side panel badges. and that is how I came to the Forum.
Can anyone let me have a reasonably hi-res photo of the LH & RH side panel badges so I can make up a couple of decals until I can get some more cash together?
Had fun on the first ride, after ten or fifteen miles taking it easy around our country lanes I pulled onto the main road and let her go - she went allright, at 85mph I rolled off the throttle but she kept on going - at 105mph I finaly realised it would be a good idea to hit the kill switch ( never done that before in forty years of riding). Once stopped and after my heartbeat slowed I tried to restart it to no avail. Called a mate, he rolled up to laugh until he saw how white I was, we found the rear Ohlins remote reservoir was mounted too far foward and the white plastic adjuster under the left throttle body had hooked around the pipe fitting! A further look found a spurious wire running from the starter relay and coiled up under the tank, the normal lead to the starter had dropped off - probably in the unrequested mad dash I had just undertaken. I guess whoever fitted the "Get you home" wire had missmounted the reservoir. Once the starter wire was hooked back on and the reservoir remounted all was well and off I went home. Told the lads at work who wondered what I had done to upset the apprentice and admired his cunning way of seeking revenge.
Ohlins fork leg corrosion
in 24/7 V11
Posted
Where did you get that photo of me?