68C
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Posts posted by 68C
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My '04 Rosso Corsa nearly killed me last year when the throttle stuck open, plastic knob on the sincro rod hooked around the rear shock remote reservoir. It still bothers me and has set me wondering if there is a mod I can do to have a twin cable twistgrip assy. By this I mean one cable to open the throttle and another to close it, I know many bikes have that arrangement. At least I would have a chance of forcing it shut then rather than relying on the puny return spring - thoughts of frozen linkages, debris in the mechanism plague me.
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Many thanks, I'll have a look at that tomorrow morning.
Rather a belated edit: Took the valve off, cleaned it by popping off the cap and refitted it. Instant success, just need to clean baked on oil from the crossover now. Thanks for the advice.
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Is this breather under that black plastic cap just behind the speedo drive, I assume it is also the filler plug?
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My 04 Rosso Corsa has a gearbox leak coming up through the speedo drive. It is definitely gearbox oil. The gearbox oil is level in the sight glass with the bike level.
I can't see any oil seal, does anyone have any ideas?
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Have a look at the Wikipedia entry for crank acceleration, I think you will find the rod cap is most loaded as it slows before getting to TDC and as it accelerates away from TDC, remember this is a four stroke so not always under load from combustion pressure in the cylinder and is pulled down by the other cylinder pressure.
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Any chance of gathering all of Kiw-Roys excellent wiring diagrams into one place?
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Thanks Kiwi_Roy for another excellent diagram, keep them coming.
Iam not sure which regulator I have on my 04 Rosso Corsa, is it easy to identify?
Many years ago I had a Yamaha XS750 (shaft drive of course), the handbook included a wiring diagram for (I think) the Canadian model which had a relay that automatically changed headlamp filaments should one fail, I though that was a great idea on a single headlamp bike, any chance of coming up with a diagram for that?
Many thanks agin.
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As I have drilled my top yoke and fitted Yamaha TDM850 risers I don't have any rubber bushes, vibes are not unpleasant although the mirrors go a bit fuzzy at certain speeds. I have been messing about adding various lumps of lead to the end of the bars help things.
Does anyone know the diameter of the riser holes in the top yoke, are they parallel or tapered in from either side?
I had thought about adding bushes but did not know how much metal it is safe to remove. There are two raised cast in lumps on the underside of the top yoke, I suspect it is the same casting for both bikes, so I drilled through the centre of the bumps. I had to use spacers under the the yoke as the TDM risers are too long - but may be just right with the bushes. I still have the TDM850 top yoke which has pressed in bushes so may be able to use those. Also I added washers on the top of the yoke as there is a raised area preventing the risers sitting flat, I was intending to counterbore the area if I did'nt fit any bushes.
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Hopefully pictures of bars and footrests.I find the bike much nicer like this and far easier to control in town. The mods don't cost much, the left footrest reposition costs nothing. Full lock no problem, I fitted mirrors to the bars as the wider riding stance meant I could not see in the stock mirrors.
Top ends of brake and clutch hoses 'bent' a little to line up, also a kiss with a file in the edge of the instrument support panel and top yoke to stop pipes rubbing, a bit of clear sleeving may be a good idea.
Left footrest repositioned, makes it a bit of a stretch to the brake lever but I have big feet and am used to it now. Also gear lever just touches the pork-chops when pressed down, I will probably make clearance on the pork-chop one day.
Right footrest relocated, I added a spacer tube inside the brake lever and a longer countersunk allen bolt ( OK, so I used an angle grinder to put a chamfer on a standard allen bolt - just temporarily of course...). Also had to adjust brake lever lower and put a piece of bent metal in as the eccentric stop is too small with the lever adjusted so low.
CAUTION, these mods made by an old bodger - use at your own peril. Be aware the footrest no longer fit into the recessed oblong areas so may rotate, never caused me any problems though. Oh, I had to bend a 17mm spanner to fit the nuts.
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I drilled my Rosso Corsa yoke and used Yamaha TDM850 risers, they are neat and move the bars up and back. I use alloy Renthal gold anaodised bars, the existing cables fit with a bit of fiddling, they run down between the instrument bracket and the yoke, just a touch with a file to give clearance. Looks a lot better than it sounds.
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Universal joints are normally used in pairs the cross bearings at each end of the shaft assembly must not only be in line with each other but must also be a mirror image, the centre shaft must have each end at the same angle. If the drive shaft assembly is not in a straight line, and ours is not as the suspension moves up and down, a phenomena known as Hookes Joint Effect or the Conservation of Angular Momentum causes the output from the first joint to move in a jerking action - fortunately the second joint turns this back into a smooth action. This is most noticeable on an unladen large truck, as it pulls away the drive shaft can be seen to rotate in a jerking fashion althogh the input to the rear axle is smooth, when loaded the designer will have arranged the system to be almost in line reducing this effect. If the joints are not aligned this jerking action will occour even when the shaft assembly is almost straight with consequent wear to the transmission and vibration. Altering the ride height of a shaft drive bike by jacking up the rear or overloading the bike can mean the shaft asssembly is no longer straight which can increase wear also.
The out of phase jerking action will someday destroy the U/J.
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Ask her if you can put the covers in her dishwasher, should get hot enough to shift any residual blast material, the dishwasher that is.
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It may be like a 'Rivnut', these are put in a bit like a pop rivet with a threaded mandrel instead of the break stem. Pulled up with similar pliers then the mandrel is unthreaded. They rely on the resistance of the pull-up to stop them spinning, more exotic types have a lug or even a fine spline to stop them spinning.
You can sometimes fix them by running a nut and washer up a six inch piece of threaded bar to suit the insert, bend the bar above the nut by 90 degrees. Try and dibble loctite around the insert NOT IN THE THREAD, then screw the threaded bar into the insert, grease the threaded bar just above the insert but try not to contaminate the Loctited area. You then hold the bent bit of threaded bar and tighten the nut down onto the washer and insert - if you are lucky this should reset the insert. Leave overnight to ensure the Loctite sets, as I am sure you know the Loctite sets where there is NO air so may still be sticky on the surface. How tight to do the nut? We used to say 'up until it snaps then back off half a turn'. Seriously, you should feel the torque suddenly increase once the insert is set.Immediately unscrew the threaded bar incase the loctite has got onto it.
Good luck, I would send some of ours but the Titanic sailed from here.
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No, you lucked in! The tough old bird held together for you though.
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Try waiting 'til the wife is out and then putting them in the dishwasher, will probably get hot enought to loosen any residual blast material. I always put bits for engines I am rebuilding into the washer, they come out lovely and bright. Not so sure about the next set of plates and cups though.
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I was in the British Army in the early 70's defending our world from the Soviet horde in the then West Germany. I remember one Mad magazine showing a map of europe with those symbols showing what the military forces had at their command, the west side had skiing holidays and cheap sailing in the Baltic, the eastern side had rows of guns and tanks and bombers. Very funny I thought, sums up NATO, turned the page and there was the rest of the USSR totally covered in endless rows of guns tanks and planes - some joke.
I say I was in the British Army, despite having a Royal Navy and Royal Airforce we have'nt had a Royal army since Ollie Cromwell's army cut the head off a King. We are the direct descendents of that army.
We never had the balls to ride like that though.
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Hey Alfred E. Neuman, must be thirty years since I last saw you! Still mad?
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I wonder how he made that movie, some kind of clever lens to accentuate the slope either side, is it a computer generated landscape with the bike superimposed?
I reckon its more fun to take it for what appears to be - one very scary ride.
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Never seen that in a new container, might be worth sending the photo to Agip.
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Are you sure, I thought the seat looked pretty clean!
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As we always said in the Army, 'It is easier to beg forgiveness than seek to permission'. Just bodge it.
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I thought the trade was in the other direction, from the US to the UK.
The American annual vehicle test is tougher than in the UK so bikes soon become uneconomical to repair and get sold off to exporters.
Here in the UK there are far more bikers as a percentage of the population than in the US, so there are more dealers, specialist suppliers and restorers within a geographical area. Twenty years ago I spent a month on a training course with Gulfstream at Savannah, I was doing up an old ’64 kickstart Sportster that I had bought home from a job in Pakistan, I thought I had a good chance of getting parts near the school. I was surprised to find there were only two bike shops in such a large city, a Harley dealer and a garden machinery shop that also sold Jap bikes. The Harley dealer pretty much ordered in any parts he needed with little on the shelf. My course mates also explained how I was used to having riding buddies just around the corner and several bike clubs nearby whereas Americans may ride fifty miles to the nearest club meet. It’s all so spread out. This all means buying and selling used bikes to a local market is harder.
The guys bringing containers of bikes into the UK are doing it for money and not sentiment, they buy in a crate from a trusted US supplier sight unseen. Once here they keep what is reasonable and scrap/melt the rest – naturally they don’t want the market to get their hands on really cheap bikes and bits.
Most of the bikes I have seen must have come from the dryer parts of the states as they are usually paint faded and dusty but pretty much intact and obviously not ridden in years.
There is a similar situation with Japanese cars, again they have a tough vehicle test and being right hand drive the cars are sellable in the UK.
I wasn’t sure if you actually intended to do this restoration business or if it was merely a business project you were doing for University.
Oh, here is the website of a local dealer who imports oldbikes. http://www.spikeisla...orcycles.co.uk/
EDIT: Don't know why link came up like this, I tried editing it but still useless. They are spikeislandmotorcycles.co.uk
Checkout their '68 V7
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I contacted Cliff, he has been under a lot of Spammer attack so has tightened up on accepted IP addresses. He has posted instructions on his website to email him with your IP address if you have the Error 403 sent.
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No, won't work in Firefox either, must be something my end. My email and access to other sites OK, including this one of course, so it's something common to IE and Firefox giving me trouble. ??
Twin cable throttle for injection bikes.
in Technical Topics
Posted
Yeah, my kill switch does work having used it in anger for the first time in my life on any bike. I also remounted the reservoir as far back as it would go and am considering replacing the plastic knob with a nylock nut.
I will follow up the Cali idea, thanks everyone.